chucK

Maybe it's full of all the bolts that they pulled further on down the route? If you look close you can see the crowbar slung on the back.

Let me clarify a bit. I thought your (Lambone's) post was very clear. The I posted was in reference to Glen's post. I wanted to know what he thinks "chicken bolt" means.

What MattP said. But I'll add more words . "thought provoking": There is plenty of time on the route where the leader will be 15-30 feet from his/her last pro. Most of that time he/she will not have any holds that will save him/her should his/her feet slip. At what I think is the crux he/she will be clipping a bolt probably 20 feet from the last one. Hint: that may not be the crux spot for the second. I have led Online 3 or 4 times and have never fallen, but have had thoughts provoked every time. Grade III??? I must insert a . Perhaps if you factor in the approach. BUT, if you don't have any route-finding or traffic problems and leave Seattle after a nice breakfast, you can be home for dinner (and climb BOTH Online and Offline). The only way Online is gonna take you more than 3 hours or so is if you get Big Ledge Syndrome and do a lot of "wingeing" (tm Glen) due to all the thoughts provoked. It could happen . Oh yeah, and Smoot's book are good in general, but often have problems with details. Don't use the Smoot directions for getting to Static Point. I think it says something like "walk up a dry streambed" doesn't it? Hint: you don't walk up ANY streambeds to get to Static Point. Finally, bring a big chainsaw and cut out the big log on the approach road for us.

Where is the Ballroom? I assume the CC gang will be filling some outside seating? Allison, please bring your tent.

I think mattP's got a little of Fred Beckey in him and a lot of XXXXXX mother. ooops sorry about that guys . I meant "the type of mother who uses guilt and shame as a primary motivation for getting you to do stuff". I'll see you guys 'n gals at the Ballroom, if yer lucky [ 07-09-2002, 05:17 PM: Message edited by: chucK ]

quote: Originally posted by AlpineK: Right now fires are banned at GG, so what do ya'll think? No fires!? That might make it hard to find our gathering. Hey Allison! Do you have a car-camping lantern that needs seam sealing?

Yeah, what Juan said. Today is shaping up to be a good day for that Boreal rubber. The C4 stuff might just slide offa yer shoe. Oh yeah, and Three O'Clock Rock gets shady around 3pm (I think?). Is that a coincidence Mattp? [ 07-09-2002, 09:09 AM: Message edited by: chucK ]

Liberty Crack! It has many (6?) *** pitches between 5.7 and 5.9. Highly featured, solid granite, and steep! You just gotta get through (or have someone with you to lead) the aid pitches at the start . NW Corner of NEWS is also excellent. It only has 3 *** pitches, but is much less work than LC. Haven't done the DEB SEWS but (almost) everyone raves about it.

This guy's got some Cruiser reports http://www.themarxes.us/

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I climbed a couple peaks and watched some parties bail on one. OK, so one was Forbidden. What route did you do? What was/were the other peak/peaks?

SO IS IT GOLDEN GARDENS OR WHAT???? I vote for Golden Gardens or Fiddler's Inn. I'd say Matthew's Beach but I think we'd get the boot before I even showed up there.

Are those booty from that roof crack at the Rock?

Yellow alien, favorite off-finger pro. Fingerlocks, choose green. oops [ 07-08-2002, 02:36 PM: Message edited by: chucK ]

quote: Originally posted by Dru: A hazardous enigma

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Ray is a tease. He is an enigma .

And speaking of being in a jam... If you're jamming your body partway into an offwidth/squeeze, make sure you put the gear you're gonna need on the outside, e.g. p2 Tatoosh/Free at Last carry the #3 Camalot on the left/out side.

similar to those other guys: two 'biners of stoppers, by size ALL cams on their own 'biners (Nuetrinos!) maybe one biner of misc like hexes and tricams. What comes with varies with climb. 'round 10 shoulder length slings with two biners as draws (tripled for racking). I don't know what that other guy was talking of when he said two sets of draws (do they come in sixpacks now?). I usually keep all draws on harness (back) and all gear smaller than #3 Camalot on gear sling. Cams bigger than or equal to #3 go on harness. Exceptions: When climbing slabs all gear goes on harness. When climbing chimneys no gear on back harness loops. The reason my way is superior is because I like it that way, and I know where everything is. Obviously I don't expect this to translate to anyone else, but you asked! My experience has been the opposite of Dick Wagon. I've found experienced, good climbers, know where their gear is, and can get it in a hurry. It amazes my how many people just put their gear in a mess and resulting have to flail at some crux searching for the right gear, even the draws!!

Hey Cap'n, Did you go see Geordie or were you an outlaw? What peaks did you climb?

It's really easy to say from hindsight in your office how the weather forecast was right on when those people got hit. But let's get real. A 3-4 day forecast in WA, especially the West side is almost worthless. How many times have you looked at the weekend forecast on Tuesday and seen it look like crap, only to have it slowly morph to "mostly sunny" on Friday afternoon? I've headed up many times with a forecast, THAT MORNING, of partly sunny, and had it piss on me the whole day. Plus, almost any day here in the PNW, especially in June, I can find a forecast on the web that'll tell me just about anything I want. Maybe they looked at Accuweather, while you guys were looking at NOAA. And, Dave, maybe you are easily satisfied, but I'd find it pretty hard to bail on Liberty Ridge for Vantage. Yes, you can bail everytime it sprinkles, everytime the weather forecast says mostly cloudy, OR you can use the information knowing its limitations. I went climbing when the weather looked bad 3 times in the last week. We got shut down just once, and that day we got 5 pitches in. I don't know what the people in question did exactly, but weren't these the people that got out OK? Maybe the forecast 'caused them to pack a bit more bivy gear? Finally, a slight tangent that will allow me to bitch out some (and compliment others) at the Leavenworth Ranger station... Not only is a hindsight forecast much better than NOAA, it is also not as easy to get any weather information when you are out on the road as when you are at your home innernet command center. When we went up to Dragontail last week, we got permits for Colchuck Lake (morning lotto, real easy) from two very nice ladies. I bought some trinkets for my kids and the nice ladies loaded us up with all sorts of cool, gratis, Smokey Bear paraphenalia. I got a yellow USFS antenna ball on my truck right now thanks to them. (Maybe that's why someone broke out my window up at Liberty Crack ). Anyway, back to the point,...when we came out from Colchuck we still had many days on the road trip and we were wondering what our options were so we stopped by the RS to try to find out about weather on the West side. Unfortunately, different clerks now occupied the office. One looked like my mental image of Larry the Tool. When I asked if they knew the forecast they responded mutely by pointing at their little conditions board. I redirected them to my query for west-side info and they just said "no". [Vee know nuttink!!!] I asked them if they could look it up on that computer they had right there on the desk and they refused, "NO", without explanation. Losers !

Just say no dude. That chalkbag is a monkey, literally hanging on your back. Give it up, or at least, put a beer in it. Wear cotton clothes and wipe your hands on 'em, and use tape. You won't have to sweat HAW! forgetting your chalk bag, or needing to buy chalk. Without a chalkbag you can be one less person marking the way, giving away the route's secrets.

quote: Originally posted by thelawgoddess: what can/"should" i do the next day if i'm not ready to go home yet? West Ridge of either Stuart or Sherpa

Sorry I didn't show Mattp. I was climbing. And I was drinking a beer next to some brown river running out of the Spada Reservoir about 9:30 pm, thinking of you guys . I only posted in the Pub Club thread so as to get Trask's obnoxious post off of the top.

Where's the Pub Club this week?

Gud. Three classics: Liberty Crack, Backbone Ridge and Classic Crack.