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Everything posted by chucK
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Gear up to about a #1 Camalot. It will go much faster if you can handle some runouts. Thompson (West Ridge) is a long ways in to carry rock gear for a pretty mediocre climb. The East Ridge is a fun scramble (4th class at top), and gets you the same awesome views .
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Forbidden Partners (sounds like a soft-porn flick)
chucK replied to ryland_moore's topic in Climber's Board
Speaking of fixed ropes...are those ropes still hanging up on The Tooth? There were two abandoned (?) ropes hung on The Tooth two weeks ago today. They weren't stuck or nuthin'. What was up with that? -
I saw that bolt! Is the 1st pitch of Lovin' Arms all dry as a bone right now? Mostly I'm just posting this to see if my little avatar-image thingy is working yet. How about now? [ 07-24-2002, 01:54 PM: Message edited by: chucK ]
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More exploring on East Buttress of Big Snow Mountain. Broke off left from from the red line (previous route) where it makes the jog right under the shadow. Will post TR when pictures come back. Clean granite (until you get right of the crest [shadowed part in picture]). Many pitches. Easy descent right now. Go get it before they close the Middle Fork Road.
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quote: Originally posted by v: I think it's a shame to waste a beautiful sunny day inside. How 'bout something outside - Fiddler's Inn? Allison sez [it] blows! That's good enough for me!!!
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bobbyperu you are truly a sparkling diamond in the rough that is CC.com my hearty thanks for your many positive, stylized contributions to this board you rule! mountain view diner huh?
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...or Damnation Crack -> Midway Direct Direct.
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I am just posting this so Attitude does not get every post on page 2 of this topic. Celebrate diversity!
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You bicyclin' dudes are the best man . I'll put up with some whiny attitude and stupid-looking lycra in exchange for that much less carbon monoxide in the air and that many less cars [with obnoxious horns] clogging the roads. Bike commuters are no more holier-than-thou than your average vegetarian or climber. Keep it up you poor oppressed biker guys !!!
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OK, OK, so listen to this.... I'm picking up my kid at a day camp at Carkeek Park the other day and the lot is all backed up and totally locked because everyone's gotta wait for their kids to show up (stuff was running late) so they're all double-parked n' shit, some people probably just stopped in the throughway etc... anyway...I found my daughter and I'm walking back through the throughway which is now basically a parking lot with NO WAY OUT and suddenly somebody LEANS on their horn. I tell my daughter in a patronizing tone, "ooo, somebody's impatient". Well, it turns out, unbeknownst to me [i'm usually the biggest dickhead only unintentionally ] the hornleaner is right next to us with her window open. Of course, she's already pee'd off, to be honking like that, so now she's probably totally fried and tells me to "mind my own business, or there'll be trouble." Well let me tell you lady, "IT IS MY GODDAMNED BUSINESS when some fool is polluting my soundscape because they're pissed off and need to vent with their big tough loud horn! Oh yeah, I'm sure that leaning on that thing for 10 minutes is really is gonna help get this traffic going. Please think before honking. Unless you can confine your honking to polite little beeps to remind someone that the light does change to green from red, and has done so about 5 seconds ago, then you're ALL getting your horns taken away. That's what I tell my kids dammit!" I didn't actually say any of that to that lady though. She sounded pissed So anyway UP YOURS KEN SCHRAM...and I'll tell you whut, Andy Rooney can f*ck off too!
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Oh yeah, and I must add a couple more on-topic recommendations fer eatin'. The Squirrel Tree (Hwy 2) has never done me wrong, but the hours don't mesh very well with a climbing schedule. The Darrington IGA Espresso Stand makes a mean brew and is oh-so convenient. That place in Conrete with all the antique/junk everywhere is pretty friendly. Especially good for if you have kids. The place in Marblemount with the bunnies is good for kids too. The Whitehorse Mercantile used to have some killer ice-cream cone deals, and a good view of Whitehorse. It's tough to go in there though, now that they tore down that cool little general-store building and rebuilt it in the form of a gas station that would sully a strip mall in a trailer park.
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quote: Originally posted by mattp: Knowing climbers who go that way take the Cook Road exit. Maybe we should start a new thread and we can slam each other over this. I have a hazy recollection that they did something to Cook Road the last year or so that made it slower? Like add those little flower- garden roundybouts or something? Or was that some other place? AM I LOSING MY FREAKIN' MIND?!!??
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Perhaps the climber didn't know how to anchor, untie and put the rope through the chains, so needed biners so he could just clip in. OK, I admit it. It was me. Please send me my biners.
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That Mexi place in Terrebonne is awesome. The Golden Harvest in Vantage rules Alberto's on Charleston (Red Rocks) was fantastic one time, meza meza another. Index Cafe used to have great pancakes. I heard it changed hands though. That 24 hour diner in Cle Elum is terrible. We ate there after a marathon day on Stuart and still hated it! [ 07-15-2002, 11:48 AM: Message edited by: chucK ]
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OK, since noone else has bitten... How do you get fractional climbing partners? Is it something like this? Make tentative ("sometime in August") climbing plans over a beer [first base, .25] Hang out a bit at the gym or parking lot of the crag. [second base, .5] Worked a boulder problem together or belayed in the gym. [third base, .75] Actually climbed an outdoor pitch sharing a rope, belaying each other [1.0 Homerun woo hoo!] [ 07-15-2002, 11:01 AM: Message edited by: chucK ]
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I don't want "close" you dope. I want the verbatim quote. Sheesh.
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Pope, What's the exact quote from the Eiger Sanction where that dickhead Euro guys says something I'll paraphrase as "Vee vill leave the plans of retreat to Doctor Hemlock". Can you like, check one of those official scripts you said you had? That one you said was actually used on the set and was autographed by the guy who played Dwayner. You know that one? Anyway. I'd appreciate it.
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Fluorescent Green Crab Traverse The Anticipation of Tapping in Rhythm Makes Me Feel Oh So Light Barfing Hoof Descent Route
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Hey TG, Have you considered the possibility that you might be poisonous?
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Maybe it's full of all the bolts that they pulled further on down the route? If you look close you can see the crowbar slung on the back.
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Let me clarify a bit. I thought your (Lambone's) post was very clear. The I posted was in reference to Glen's post. I wanted to know what he thinks "chicken bolt" means.
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What MattP said. But I'll add more words . "thought provoking": There is plenty of time on the route where the leader will be 15-30 feet from his/her last pro. Most of that time he/she will not have any holds that will save him/her should his/her feet slip. At what I think is the crux he/she will be clipping a bolt probably 20 feet from the last one. Hint: that may not be the crux spot for the second. I have led Online 3 or 4 times and have never fallen, but have had thoughts provoked every time. Grade III??? I must insert a . Perhaps if you factor in the approach. BUT, if you don't have any route-finding or traffic problems and leave Seattle after a nice breakfast, you can be home for dinner (and climb BOTH Online and Offline). The only way Online is gonna take you more than 3 hours or so is if you get Big Ledge Syndrome and do a lot of "wingeing" (tm Glen) due to all the thoughts provoked. It could happen . Oh yeah, and Smoot's book are good in general, but often have problems with details. Don't use the Smoot directions for getting to Static Point. I think it says something like "walk up a dry streambed" doesn't it? Hint: you don't walk up ANY streambeds to get to Static Point. Finally, bring a big chainsaw and cut out the big log on the approach road for us.
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Where is the Ballroom? I assume the CC gang will be filling some outside seating? Allison, please bring your tent.
