chucK

I think mattP's got a little of Fred Beckey in him and a lot of XXXXXX mother. ooops sorry about that guys . I meant "the type of mother who uses guilt and shame as a primary motivation for getting you to do stuff". I'll see you guys 'n gals at the Ballroom, if yer lucky [ 07-09-2002, 05:17 PM: Message edited by: chucK ]

quote: Originally posted by AlpineK: Right now fires are banned at GG, so what do ya'll think? No fires!? That might make it hard to find our gathering. Hey Allison! Do you have a car-camping lantern that needs seam sealing?

Yeah, what Juan said. Today is shaping up to be a good day for that Boreal rubber. The C4 stuff might just slide offa yer shoe. Oh yeah, and Three O'Clock Rock gets shady around 3pm (I think?). Is that a coincidence Mattp? [ 07-09-2002, 09:09 AM: Message edited by: chucK ]

Liberty Crack! It has many (6?) *** pitches between 5.7 and 5.9. Highly featured, solid granite, and steep! You just gotta get through (or have someone with you to lead) the aid pitches at the start . NW Corner of NEWS is also excellent. It only has 3 *** pitches, but is much less work than LC. Haven't done the DEB SEWS but (almost) everyone raves about it.

This guy's got some Cruiser reports http://www.themarxes.us/

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I climbed a couple peaks and watched some parties bail on one. OK, so one was Forbidden. What route did you do? What was/were the other peak/peaks?

SO IS IT GOLDEN GARDENS OR WHAT???? I vote for Golden Gardens or Fiddler's Inn. I'd say Matthew's Beach but I think we'd get the boot before I even showed up there.

Are those booty from that roof crack at the Rock?

Yellow alien, favorite off-finger pro. Fingerlocks, choose green. oops [ 07-08-2002, 02:36 PM: Message edited by: chucK ]

quote: Originally posted by Dru: A hazardous enigma

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Ray is a tease. He is an enigma .

And speaking of being in a jam... If you're jamming your body partway into an offwidth/squeeze, make sure you put the gear you're gonna need on the outside, e.g. p2 Tatoosh/Free at Last carry the #3 Camalot on the left/out side.

similar to those other guys: two 'biners of stoppers, by size ALL cams on their own 'biners (Nuetrinos!) maybe one biner of misc like hexes and tricams. What comes with varies with climb. 'round 10 shoulder length slings with two biners as draws (tripled for racking). I don't know what that other guy was talking of when he said two sets of draws (do they come in sixpacks now?). I usually keep all draws on harness (back) and all gear smaller than #3 Camalot on gear sling. Cams bigger than or equal to #3 go on harness. Exceptions: When climbing slabs all gear goes on harness. When climbing chimneys no gear on back harness loops. The reason my way is superior is because I like it that way, and I know where everything is. Obviously I don't expect this to translate to anyone else, but you asked! My experience has been the opposite of Dick Wagon. I've found experienced, good climbers, know where their gear is, and can get it in a hurry. It amazes my how many people just put their gear in a mess and resulting have to flail at some crux searching for the right gear, even the draws!!

Hey Cap'n, Did you go see Geordie or were you an outlaw? What peaks did you climb?

It's really easy to say from hindsight in your office how the weather forecast was right on when those people got hit. But let's get real. A 3-4 day forecast in WA, especially the West side is almost worthless. How many times have you looked at the weekend forecast on Tuesday and seen it look like crap, only to have it slowly morph to "mostly sunny" on Friday afternoon? I've headed up many times with a forecast, THAT MORNING, of partly sunny, and had it piss on me the whole day. Plus, almost any day here in the PNW, especially in June, I can find a forecast on the web that'll tell me just about anything I want. Maybe they looked at Accuweather, while you guys were looking at NOAA. And, Dave, maybe you are easily satisfied, but I'd find it pretty hard to bail on Liberty Ridge for Vantage. Yes, you can bail everytime it sprinkles, everytime the weather forecast says mostly cloudy, OR you can use the information knowing its limitations. I went climbing when the weather looked bad 3 times in the last week. We got shut down just once, and that day we got 5 pitches in. I don't know what the people in question did exactly, but weren't these the people that got out OK? Maybe the forecast 'caused them to pack a bit more bivy gear? Finally, a slight tangent that will allow me to bitch out some (and compliment others) at the Leavenworth Ranger station... Not only is a hindsight forecast much better than NOAA, it is also not as easy to get any weather information when you are out on the road as when you are at your home innernet command center. When we went up to Dragontail last week, we got permits for Colchuck Lake (morning lotto, real easy) from two very nice ladies. I bought some trinkets for my kids and the nice ladies loaded us up with all sorts of cool, gratis, Smokey Bear paraphenalia. I got a yellow USFS antenna ball on my truck right now thanks to them. (Maybe that's why someone broke out my window up at Liberty Crack ). Anyway, back to the point,...when we came out from Colchuck we still had many days on the road trip and we were wondering what our options were so we stopped by the RS to try to find out about weather on the West side. Unfortunately, different clerks now occupied the office. One looked like my mental image of Larry the Tool. When I asked if they knew the forecast they responded mutely by pointing at their little conditions board. I redirected them to my query for west-side info and they just said "no". [Vee know nuttink!!!] I asked them if they could look it up on that computer they had right there on the desk and they refused, "NO", without explanation. Losers !

Just say no dude. That chalkbag is a monkey, literally hanging on your back. Give it up, or at least, put a beer in it. Wear cotton clothes and wipe your hands on 'em, and use tape. You won't have to sweat HAW! forgetting your chalk bag, or needing to buy chalk. Without a chalkbag you can be one less person marking the way, giving away the route's secrets.

quote: Originally posted by thelawgoddess: what can/"should" i do the next day if i'm not ready to go home yet? West Ridge of either Stuart or Sherpa

Sorry I didn't show Mattp. I was climbing. And I was drinking a beer next to some brown river running out of the Spada Reservoir about 9:30 pm, thinking of you guys . I only posted in the Pub Club thread so as to get Trask's obnoxious post off of the top.

Where's the Pub Club this week?

Gud. Three classics: Liberty Crack, Backbone Ridge and Classic Crack.

Since you asked ... Got up late on Saturday figuring it was gonna be wet and was surprised by the sun. Talked Jeff into climbing one more thing with me and we headed up there (Sultan Basin Recreation Area) at about noon. It was pretty wet up there and the road is somewhat overgrown. Someone has cut some of the saplings away from the spur road, and we cut a few more, but I would suggest getting someone else to drive you if you like to baby your fancy ride . After some vacillating over heading out into the mist or going home, we went for what we thought would just be a nice hike through the woods. The old logging road is now getting overgrown enough that it's more like a trail than an ugly road. I guess I was in a good enough mood despite the damp to think it was pleasant. After the usual hump up through the scenic old growth we arrived at the "Point" to find it dry (between the wet streaks). We knocked off Online in surprisingly quick fashion AND it had not started raining on us. In fact the wet streaks were even drying up and we'd get some intermittent sunshine. So we decided to go for Offline too. At one point I was leading up the fourth pitch and the sun came through the clouds. It was at the perfect angle to make all the little knobby ripples cast long shadows. The temps must have been perfect for slabbing as it just felt like you could walk up anything. The slowest part about the climbing was waiting for the belayer to pull up the slack. I led the crux pitch of Online without incident even though the toe of my left shoe got blown out lower down. We headed back down around 7:30 and were home by 10. Pitches go by pretty quick when everything is a hold and there's about 3 pro opportunities per pitch! Chuck

Matt cheated death on Sunday too. He is truly a Cascade hardman. He doesn't do Gu though. Go figure .

I Since noone else will fess up... I officially hold the record, until someone posts their better time. 2:26, from filling out Wilderness Permit to verifying there was no parking ticket on my windshield.

Static Point is OPEN! Jeff and I went there yesterday afternoon. The spur road is a bit overgrown and there's a large (2+ foot diameter) tree down that adds about 10 minutes to the approach. But the granite is still smooth and grippy .

Matt you are a jokester. To get to the couloir walk South from the summit on the gentle bowl on the East side of the Dragon's "Tail". The couloir comes up just North of Pandora's Box. See this stuffon MVS's page. The 4-6th pictures are all relevant. You can't see Pandora's Box from the summit of Dragontail, but you'll find it if you keep walking South near the spine. As I said, right now, that couloir down to Colchuck Col is very benign. It might be worse with less snow. We followed Mattp's advice and camped on the moraine. No bugs up there and made the approach to the start of the route trivial. It did make the descent via Colchuck Glacier almost mandatory though.