chucK

Who's that on now? Jon/John from Redmond?

quote: Originally posted by allison: Red alert, GD has Triv on Tues---rethink this. Yeah, I think Cooper's Alehouse would be better . [ 06-03-2002, 12:23 PM: Message edited by: chucK ]

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Just clip the quickdraws to the members of parties as you pass on by. Just as good as bolts since they are so numerous ...and they move slower than bolts!

check out the Mountaineers climb schedule for the Tooth Mountie climb schedule. There are Mountaineers climbs for the Tooth scheduled on 20 of the 30 days of June! I was up there on Friday. I got back down to the base at around 9:15 just as the Mountaineers group was showing up. So, I guess you don't have get up that early to beat 'em there.

I still wanna know who that John/Jon from Redmond is? Was it on Mt. Index as Dru suggested? Another thought, perhaps it was Serpentine Arete on Dragontail. I could definitely see that necessitating a rescue for a broken ankle. Hey Lambone! Did you get rescued up there this weekend?

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Trees ARE fixed anchors. That damn Mt Index is gridded with em. Dude are you saying it was on Mt. Index??? Was Cavey rescued? Does Fred call Mt. Index easy?

He also noted that they were intending to walk down and there was a lack of fixed anchors. Probably not Orbit as there are bail slings hanging all over the place on that. Maybe Outer Space? What about stuff like R&D or the Tree Route? Do they have fixed anchors?

If you're cutting out early and blasting out to the hills via I-90, keep it at 60 until the 70mph signs. There were at least five cycle cops with radar guns working that area right before where it turns to 70mph real hard. Witnessed the carnage around 11:45 am today.

So exactly how does one go about removing copperheads from the jams? Do you need to use a chisel? I guess this doesn't need to be a hypothetical question. Peter, how did you guys clean the copperheads?

Do you mean June 15th?

Tooth was fun. The Charlie I was with is not "got a topo?" Charlie of CC.com fame. We started walking about 11:30. The snow was perfect for walking with hiking boots. At least when you're following the footsteps of everyone who's been up to the Tooth on Memorial Day weekend. The parking lot seemed pretty empty, and it seemed like we were pretty alone up there, then when we were in Great Scott Basin, two guys came over the North shoulder of Denny and hurriedly plunged stepped down the slope to get in line ahead of us. My plan was to climb some cracks and stuff I had scoped out previously just West of the South Face route. We snaked up a pretty fun route that stayed independent of the SF until the 3rd class section. We climbed half-pitches with a doubled 8.5 50m rope. Some looseness, but mostly solid, with a couple of fun sections. The entire time we were on the route deviation there was non-stop activity of climbers and rappers on the SF route, but by the time we joined it, we were alone. About that time the weather finally started to cave on us, so we quickly summitted and then got out of there. Easy plunge stepping and butt-glissading sped us to the truck in half the approach time. Some bonehead plunge stepped down the butt-glissade groove down to Source Lake area. If you are reading this, I hate you . Well maybe not that bad, but you are sort of an idiot . Anyway, got back to the truck to find the battery totally dead, 'cause I left the lights on. Luckily some guy arrived soon after us and gave us a jump so we didn't have to do the push-start grovel. As far as I could tell, no parking pass yet required!

Four feet of dynamic climbing rope is not "essentially" static. It will soften the blow, much more than a static runner like a daisy. I tie in with the rope(s) on a clove hitch. I back up one of the cloves with a something on a bight. The bight knot is further down the rope enough so's as to not impede the adjustability you get from the clove. I use the backup just in case the clove slips. If I'm only using one rope, I back up the one rope tie-in with a runner. I don't have a daisy, but sometimes I wish I did in place of the runner to have a more conveniently adjustable tie-in. But I guess I've never needed one. Sure looks handy though. If I'm planning on rapping from the anchors, I won't tie in with the rope . I heard a story down at the UW Rock about a fairly frequent poster here not cinching down his clove adequately and ended up falling off the top of Jello Tower to the base. The guy is obviously still with us, so either the clove slowed him down enough so he didn't get killt, or the story is bogus .

How's this one? --------------------

quote: Originally posted by Charlie: - you walk around the crags with lots of tape on your hands, a helmet, and a bunch of hexes- .... Hey! That's ME!! (minus the hexes)... GAPE GAPE GAPE quote: - you hang out with route bolters so people will think your cool....Did that at Pub Club the other night... GAPE GAPE GAPE

quote: Originally posted by iain: But even if the advice is from some gaper loudmouth mazama I grit my teeth, smile, and say cheers mate, I'll keep it in mind. Good advice iain. It sounds like this is exactly what went down in the original story.

quote: Originally posted by JRCO: While at the UofW in the early nineties, I saw a guy climbing at the practice rock with a ring on his finger. He was jambing his fingers in the little crack going over the roof. He fell, his fingered and ring stayed. Look for the blood stain next time you are there. Someone oughta bolt that crack. Were you really there JRCO? I figured that was an urban legend. That didn't stop me from telling it to some guy as he was climbing it the other day. I was at Snow Creek Wall back in the oughts and this guy was climbing Outer Space with a watch on. He fell and left his hand there !!! Look for the blood stain next time you're up there. [ 05-23-2002, 03:20 PM: Message edited by: chucK ]

JM, I don't think you responded to Crazy's point. That is, if you are alone out there and can't get your buddy out of the crevasse with a Z, it is doubtful that constructing a ZC is gonna make the difference between him living and dying. Can you comment on this?

Fiddler's Inn, at 9219 35th Ave Ne, Seattle, WA 98115 - - - - quote: Originally posted by erik: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=002252 [ 05-21-2002, 10:39 AM: Message edited by: chucK ]

quote: Originally posted by mattp: Nobody has seen fit to object, so how's about we make ChucK's dream come true: a Northeast Seattle pub club . Fiddler's Inn, at 9219 35th Ave Ne, Seattle, WA 98115. [...] Directions: Take the Lake City exit from I-5, and follow Lake City Way (State Route 522) just over one mile, to 95th Street Northeast (the turn can be difficult to spot, it comes as you go down a hill and there is some kind of auto repair shop on the corner). Proceed right (east) on 95th Street NE, .7 miles to 35th Avenue NE. Turn right (south) and drive about a block -- the Fiddler's Inn is on the corner on the right. Further description of approach: Take Lake City/Bothell Way exit to 95th St NE as Matt describes above. 95th St NE is at a stoplight and is just before a large billboard on the right advertising BBQ sauce . Proceed East on 95th St NE to 35th Ave NE (Texaco Station) turn right and very soon on your right (West side of 35th) will be a little brown building, The Fiddler's Inn. It's across 35th and just South of the HAPPY PALACE . I probably won't be there 'til around 9pm. I suspect others will show earlier.

I'll get you something Trask: Trask mailorder What's yer mailing address?

quote: Originally posted by rbw1966: Its all about personal responsibility. Yeah! What is it with people who... take up two parking spaces stand across from their shopping cart blocking the whole aisle expect the bus and everyone on it to wait for them because they couldn't get up early enough leave a half-cup in the coffee maker at work walk really slowly in the crosswalk while you wait

Were there any dogs there?

quote: Originally posted by PDXClimber: "Any dog that threatens me gets a "Vibram" stamp on their forehead from the bottom of my boot. For myself (and many others that I have talked to), if someone were to physically strike or injure my dog it would be similar to some adult deciding to slap one of my kids in the face. Neither action would have a pleasant ending. You are right PDX. If your dog is threatening me or my kids, YOU are the one who should get injured and you might.

Bikes shorten the approach and especially the time out considerably. It is a very easy grade for bikes (not bad going in/up, total cruise going out). I think it is more than a "ghost" town. There are people living up there.

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: what ever dude...if people are so sensitive that our little list realy offends them, then they got other problems. There's often a difference between "really offended" and "I think I'll just drive down the street to the competitor instead". But you know Lamb, after thinking about this, I might be totally off base. Since they already got all the customers they need (it's always packed in there), your employers might be trying to foster an atmosphere of elitism and cliqueishness. If that is the case, you are helping them out, and doing a good job. Nevermind.