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sayjay

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About sayjay

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    the cc.com vortex
  1. Mt. Baker conditions?

    Thinking of taking a relative newbie up Baker in ~2 weeks from now. Wondering what the conditions are like, especially on the Roman headwall. Also, how is the surface on the summit? Icy? Total slush after the sun's been out a bit? With this year's odd weather I'm not sure what to expect... Thanks!
  2. W. Ridge Fobidden, Sunday

    Hey guys! Thanks for the welcome It's been awhile, I know. I've been distracted by other things... But hoping to get out climbing a bit more this summer than last... Glad to see the old cc.com is still alive and kicking and up to the usual
  3. Looking for the folks (two parties of two) that were on the W. Ridge of Forbidden with us yesterday. I took a pic of the woman in the 2nd party as she was heading towards the summit. Will send it to you if you pop me an email~ Great climb! For folks that are interested, the couloir is still in good shape but won't be for long. There's one 'shrund that is in the process of collapsing. Maybe another 1-2 weeks left before it opens up enough to be difficult to climb past. Also for folks looking to go there but who haven't been to Boston Basin before, the trailhead is at 22.2 mi if you use the mile markers they have on the road. Guidebooks say 21.7mi. And Beckey refers to the trailhead as an old "road spur". At this point it's so overgrown it's hardly recognizable as a trailhead, but the pullout is obvious. Finally, I noticed a lot of old posts about doing this route in a day car-to-car. We did this, but it took us from 6am to 11pm. It would have been longer had we not been willing to free-solo perhaps half the route and all of the snow field/couloir. Also it's definitely a long descent if you don't know exactly where you are going. However, I didn't find it to be problematic -- just slow. Two ropes is a huge benefit for the descent! We were able to stick to the ridge crest and get a good part of the way down in two long rappels (55m double ropes). Scrambled the rest. Also got from just below the ridge to just above the base of the couloir in 2 rappels. The downclimbing in the snow-covered part of the couloir was actually very solid. Great route! Talk about scenic~ ~S
  4. [TR] Darrington- Three O'clock Rock 7/17/2005

    Hey Doc, If you're going to climb Darrington much, you might want to get the guidebook! Actually it's not quite a book -- it's all on CD. Very complete and great topos. Email dwhite5522@aol.com to purchase. Or, I think you can buy it at Pro Mtn Sports. Great area!
  5. Utah-Aid and or Free

    Indian Creek ROCKS! Didn't do a lot there, but what we did do was stellar as well as having gorgeous views. And there are multiple walls with different exposures so you can move with the shade if it is too hot. Recommend Chocolate Corner (5.9+), Binou's Crack (rated 5.8, but feels harder!) and THE INCREDIBLE HAND CRACK (10c). I left a lotta blood on this one despite taping, but a a certain member of this board who usually frequents Darrington cranked up it... The feet on this climb are SLICK from so much traffic... HAVE FUN!
  6. TR: Whitehorse Mountain, 3/14/2004

    Thanks for the pic Josh! Should be helpful~ Now all I need is good weather on a weekend... Sarah
  7. TR: Whitehorse Mountain, 3/14/2004

    Anyone have an update on the conditions on Whitehorse? Thinking about climbing it this coming weekend via Snow Gulch/glacier route, if weather and snow conditions are right. Josh: Would love the pic you mentioned of the trail up Snow Gulch! It sure would be nice to avoid the 'shwack on the lower reaches...
  8. Mount Fuji

    This pic was taken from right next to the kimono museum... Not by me! Lots more snow in this pic than when I was there~
  9. Mount Fuji

    I climbed Fuji in March 2001, though not all the way from the Sengen shrine. Did visit the shrine after the climb though -- cool place, and I thought at the time it'd be really great to do the full mountain from there. It'd be long, though, and I have no idea how well-travelled the trail is on the lowest parts of the mountain. I went with a friend, and we had a car so I can't help you with transport questions... But a few other bits that might help: First, the locals will think you are nuts for climbing it in the off-season (winter). They'll warn you of certain death and try to dissuade you, but of course you can disregard all that. We were also told you had to get a permit from the local police to climb it in the off season, and with the very efficient and friendly help of the guy who ran the B&B where we stayed we got that easily. Basically just answer a lot of questions to see if you are prepared. However, there isn't anyone up there to see if you have a permit, so I'd say blow this part off... When we did it we only saw one other person and they were low down on the mountain. There was no snow at the Sengen shrine, and little once you got much below the 5th station (I think it was the 5th anyhow... the one where the road ends!). The snow pack on the mountain was very stiff, and crampons and ice axe were absolutely necessary, as kick-stepping was not an option and an unarrested fall would take you literally thousands of feet. Actually a guy had dies the week before via a fall on the upper slope that took him 3,000' to his death. Presumably no axe~ The conditions when we were there weren't at all conducive to skiing, and I'd imagine that's often the case as the upper slopes get pretty wind-scoured. You'll be amazed a the amount of stuff on top of the mountain, and glad you are not climbing it in the summer! Don't miss visiting the really cool museum on the north side of the lake to the north of the mountain. Can't remember the name of it, but it's full of these amazing kimonos this guy made, and they are decorated with scenes of Fuji in different seasons. I know it doesn't sound very exciting, but really it'll blow you away! The guy is super famous locally so I'm sure you'll have no trouble finding it. Be sure to post a TR when you get back!
  10. Weather Forecasting Slide Show

    If the above is of interest, you might also want to know about the following (also free, but they ask that you "register" for it...mostly so they have a head count I think): "Why do forecasts go wrong?: An inside look at Northwest weather forecasting" Professor Cliff Mass, Dept. of Atmospheric Science, Univ. of Washington Wednesday, Nov. 19, 7:30pm Kane Hall, Room 120 Univ. of Washington Seattle campus Please register at: http://www.atmos.washington.edu/~jjc/pop_lect1/
  11. My favorite this weekend photo (share)

    hell, I'm impressed!
  12. My favorite this weekend photo (share)

    been too busy learning how to go down to do much going up lately...
  13. my birthday wish: 3-day weekend in squish

    just back from a trip to the valley, and have time to go to squish for three days. how damn depressed can you be, girl??? post a tr! the masses wanna know...
  14. Secret Bivi Tricks

    did an unplanned bivy recently and so only had my climbing shoes with me. too cold for bare feet so i was stuck in my shoes, semi-hanging, with my feet pointing downhill all night. would've paid good $$ for a pair of really thick socks. don't weigh much, and are a relief for your feet. even if i had more comfortable shoes w/ me I'd have opted for the thick socks. keep you warm but breathe so your feet can dry out. may seem like a luxury but i'd bring em! (...and the gloves, too) did have a space blanket with me and it worked quite well, but it IS a one-hit wonder. if it's windy it'll get shredded. mine did. have fun! s.
  15. campin' near Cashmere

    I'm off next week for two weeks of paragliding lessons out of Cashmere and need a place to set up my tent. Anyone have advice on a good spot? On the school's web site they mention the following: Wenatchee Confluence State Park Lincoln Rock State Park Wenatchee River County Park ...but I'm worried these'll all be RV/yahoo heaven... (of course there's always the camping in the icicle in Lworth, but if I can be closer to Cashmere it'd be good cause we start early in the a.m.) thanks!
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