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  1. 5 points
    Trip: Mount Shuksan - White Salmon Gl. Trip Date: 02/20/2020 Trip Report: The paper says we are 7 inches ahead for rainfall right now in the Skagit Valley. Probably why last week I did everything I could to break free of work and get out in the sun, high on Mount Shuksan. I have to thank @dberdinka for organizing the hooky and @Trent for sharing in the enthusiasm. We weren't alone in our thinking- a few dozen others were seen out on the White Salmon, and even when we were descending after a run over by the North Face, more were coming. Even the (in)famous Jason Hummel was out showing pro Cody Townsend around the mountain. It was quite a day to soak up some rays and earn a few turns, so I can't blame anyone for joining in the fun. I hope you were out somewhere too..... Gear Notes: two sticks for the up, one or two for the down Approach Notes: I would drop thru the clear cut to the creek rather than try and stay high. Not bad turns to the valley bottom.
  2. 4 points
    Kaleetan Peak, July 7, 2019 Chuck's Line, one pitch, 5.7, 1x The last outing I did with Chuck Spiekerman was a visit to Kaleetan Peak on 7/22/2019. He had been working on me to get away from Darrington, and sold me on this unclimbed 600-foot West Face. The only problem was the four-hour approach hike. But since I'd been doing that nearly every summer weekend for the last several years, I agreed to help. Chuck had done the research, scoping the face on an earlier solo trip up the North Ridge. He'd returned to work out the approach from Melakwa Lake and the best place to leave the climbers' track to contour around to the west side. He'd found the "magic gully" that leads down from the south shoulder to the west face smoothly. Now he'd invited me to join him on a rock climb of discovery on the west face itself. I was skeptical that there could be a good, unclimbed cliff in a busy, popular hiking area. At the same time, I was skeptical of all the work to hump in the required gear. Surely these two factors opposed themselves and would cancel out! So I agreed, and we'd have the place to ourselves for a day. We brought two 60m ropes, a single rack with wires and cams to 3", my bolt kit with 3 bolts and hangers, drill and hammer, and no bivy gear. It is in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness Area, so no power drills are allowed. We would have to allow four hours of hiking time to get back to Denny Creek trailhead, and set our turn-around time. I didn't want to hike out in the dark. Being on a strict timeline, I didn't stop for photos much. Wanting to document the wall itself, I took shots of the cliff but not of Chuck leading out. He drilled his first ever bolt on lead, protecting a steep short wall on a limestone patch. It only took him about 8 minutes to drill. The climbing on the limestone patches was phenomenal: sharp, sticky, and fun. Then he got in another bolt at the belay anchor, which is in quartzite, or perhaps andesite, much harder, and it took 20 minutes. It's a "pre-Tertiary melange" up there! He brought me up, and I drilled the second anchor bolt. Agreeing to go up and left toward a big tree for Pitch 2 next time, we rapped off. It was late afternoon and time to get out of there. On the talus on the way out I took these three photos of Chuck. Rest in peace, my friend. There is gravel strewn over every ledge and hold, but the rock is sound. We didn't experience any loose rock or rockfall. The talus slope at the base is very loose and littered with bright, white quartz rhomboids. It is a wide wall; there are doubtless better places to start. Indeed, there is a good crack in a left-facing corner directly below our line that could be used as a more direct start at a higher grade. For our continuation, we were going to angle left to the big tree aimed at by the arrow in the annotated photo. We spoke of staying in the light-grey limestone as much as possible, as the climbing there is excellent. If someone hankers for an adventure route, feel free to use Chuck's Line as a first pitch and go from there.
  3. 4 points
    Hello! I started my business High Mountain Gear And Repair in Seattle last year repairing textiles and outdoor equipment. I have since expanded to creating my own outdoor equipment, crag development products, and Ice Equipment Sharpening Service! I have a studio in Ballard, and currently the turn around for Sharpening Services are 1-4 days turn around. If you have equipment that needs repaired, or custom ideas needing made, I work at a reasonable $30/hr. I work on lightweight and heavy duty fabrics including leather, and have a lot of fabric available for sale by the yard for your own usage. Please check out my website at High Mountain Gear And Repair or my instagram page at @highmtngearnrepair to see my current offerings of products and services. Sharpening Prices Set Of Crampons $40 Crampon Front Point $5 Ice Pick $7 Standard Steel Screw $9 Cut Throat Steel and Aluminum Screws $17 Lettering $1 per letter Kyle Willis High Mountain Gear And Repair 1425 Broadway #475 Seattle, WA 98122 6147470500 POSEIDON.mp4
  4. 3 points
    Well, that was quick - thanks. The original summit route ascended, finally, in 1943 after Pablo Fisher and Gustavo Kammerer overcame the final 40-foot slab guarding the summit. They initially spent an hour-and-a-half trying to throw an iron hook over the top, but eventually resorted to drilling seven one-inch metal rods- the holes of which are still visible as you climb past and clip the modern bolts protecting the steep, thin face.
  5. 3 points
    The rain then freeze cycle last week made for some good alpine ice conditions at the pass. NW Butt on Chair was in cruiser condition yesterday. Would likely be hard to protect per usual. The upcoming snow fall will likely make it wallowy again. Hard to tell if routes on Snoqualmie are in or not. Someone should go check out NY gulley. Had to chop out the cornice.
  6. 3 points
    I'm often asked "what happened to Helmy?" or about the whereabouts of Helmy, Fred Beckey's brother. I was able to spend time with Helmy on two lengthy visits to Munich: the first in 2014 and then in 2018. This is a link to his obituary, on the Mountaineers website: https://www.mountaineers.org/blog/remembering-helmy-beckey . . . . . . . . . . . *Note: The climb of Index's North Peak was originally made by Lionel Chute & "company" in the late 1920s - exact year and partner's names unknown. It was later climbed by Otto Trott and Eric Larson in 1941. It's likely that Trott & Larson actually made the first "complete" summit, but that the specifics were not entirely documented, as could have Chute. It was proposed in later years by Harry Majors that Fred & Helmy made the first "complete" ascent of the North Peak, as the write-up by Fred in the 1946 AAJ made mention of continuing to the true summit; Chute's homemade-metal match summit register was found at the "false" summit. Fred never made the FA claim himself.
  7. 2 points
    Trip: Guye Peak - South Gully Trip Date: 02/20/2020 Trip Report: I climbed the south gully of Guye Peak this thursday, the first half of the route was in good conditions up to a steep rock wall covered with soft snow, I turned to the right out of the gully and climbed straight up in a lot of powder snow for the rest of the climb. Snowshoes highly recommended for the approach. Gear Notes: 2 ice axes Approach Notes: Snowshoes
  8. 2 points
    Trip: Mt Hood - Devil's Kitchen Headwall Variation 0 Trip Date: 02/18/2020 Trip Report: Climbed a variation to the left of the regular DKHW left ("Variation 1" in Mullee) route on Monday along with CC members Nolan E Arson and kadyakerbob. I'm quite sure this wasn't a FA as it's an obvious line on a popular aspect of the mountain, but as far as I know there are no documented ascents of the route. Makes sense to refer to it as variation 0 following the Mullee numbering. The beginning of the route is currently a mix of exposed rock/rime. It turned out to be a lot steeper than it looked from the bottom. The rime takes good sticks but there are some surprisingly delicate, balance-y moves to move through the rock patches. Above the exposed rocks there's a flat-ish area where it looks like the gully splits into right and left options. The right option (more visible from the crater) didn't really look passable to me but the left had a nice, short, near-vertical step on solid rime. Above this we came out to a small clearing from which we could see climbers on the Hogsback. We went right and followed the narrow, snow filled gullies to where they meet up with the regular DKHW left variation (above the crux). Random Notes: The challenging climbing is all at the bottom of the route (the visible rock and the rime step above it). I don't think the upper portion could get significantly steeper than it is now, though it would be a lot more fun if it had ice instead of deep snow. In current conditions it seems unprotectable. You can put screws in the rime (and maybe rap on them) but there's no way they would hold any kind of fall. If legitimate ice ever forms on the route it would be great, and probably superior to variation 1, as it's longer, steeper, and more sustained. I will definitely check this route again once I know that there is fat ice on variation 1. I'd give the route the typical, meaningless AI3 rating. Right now it's noticeably harder than anything I've encountered on variation 1. The line we took: Some very steep snow in the entrance gully: Short rime fin below the rocks: Bottom part of rocky section: Top part of rocky section: Going left over the rime step: Wide-angle shot of above the rime step. Follow the narrow gully right. Typical deep snow in the gullies: Looking down from where the route joins variation 1. Variation 1 crux is just below and to the left of the central rime mushrooms, we emerged on the right. Gear Notes: Rope, screws, draws, etc., were all good training weight, useless on route. Approach Notes: When I walk it it's deep powder, when I ski it it's chickenheads.
  9. 2 points
    Trip: Strobach - Strobach D Approach Pitch Trip Date: 02/09/2020 Trip Report: It was my first time in there, figured it was a long shot but maybe still the best chance for ice last weekend. Skied in the long road approach towing a pull with my overnight gear with my buddy Mike on Saturday. It was a long slow ski. Camped at the end of the road with tasty pork chops and plenty of wine. Got up in the morning and did some crappy tree crashing on skis to get to the climbs (lots of knee high blowdown). Stuff was mostly out but there was lots of water flowing and it was below freezing so it seemed like things might come back. A few things probably climbable for someone with more balls or less rusty ice tools. We finally settled on a consolation of the easy approach pitch on “Strobach D” which I think has a new name and an ascent now (last flow on the right side of mother lode). The actual pillar was a tiny bit thin for us in the middle but I bet is great now. We also had fun TRing the mixed corner right of the approach slab ice. Here are some more pics, you all should get on it! Also that approach was long both ways and too flat to ski down easily for half of it. You could probably drive the road except for the signs saying it’s closed to all vehicles except registered snow mobiles. Might be more snow this weekend though. Maybe the other approach is better in these conditions? I didn’t see any flagging or anything and the forest after the road end sucked with little snow. Gear Notes: Ice gear, camping gear, skis Approach Notes: Ski five miles up the road as in WA Ice, then crash through trees for a half mile.
  10. 2 points
    Trip: MT. HOOD - Devils Kitchen Headwall Trip Date: 02/12/2020 Trip Report: I took advantage of this short weather window that we have finally been given and ran up to Hood for a quick session this morning. Overall the snow was much more compact than i would have guessed making for quick progress up to hot rocks. DKH looked thin from hot rocks, but beggars can't be choosers so i took what i could get. Overall the route is very climbable albeit not as cruiser as it is in the spring after a few good freeze thaw cycles. There is definitely not enough thick ice to place any protection if that's something you would want to do. below are some pics. i also took few shots of the N.side and the top of the Elliott headwall if anyone was wondering what that's looking like right now. Gear Notes: two ice tools Approach Notes: skin up, climb, ski down. strava had me at a little over 3hr30min car to car.
  11. 2 points
    Trip: Mt. Hood - North Face Right Gully, Reid Headwall, Wy'East, Pearly Gates Enchainment Trip Date: 12/29/2019 Trip Report: I'm back in Oregon after my first semester of college in Canada! Over the last few months I have spent too much time ice and mixed climbing, not enough time in the mountains. Since I'm back home I figured it would be fun to do a bigger objective on Hood. The coolest thing I could think of was doing a link up of all four faces of the mountain in a push. For the routes, I decided to do the North Face Right Gully, Reid, Wy'East, and the Pearly Gates. I chose the North Face gully because it was the most striking line on the face, Reid because Leuthold looked lame, Wy'East because I didn't want to solo the Black Spider, and Pearly Gates because it was the route that got me into climbing. Link ups are new too me so I thought the whole trip would take around 30 something hours. After watching the weather carefully, a window appeared and I knew it was go time. At 4:00 am I started the hike up to the north face. Cool temps and no wind made the approach go by quickly and comfortably. There's a good trail all the way to the shelter and the snow on the glacier was pretty firm. Cooper 30 is in fat and some of the other drips on the glacier look good too. At around 7:30 I geared up and started up the bergshrund. To my surprise, the shrund was almost completely filled in. I just walked across some stable snow and the bergshrund was over. Climbing the first ice pitch was some of the best ice I've encountered on Hood. The sticks were solid and there wasn't much dinnerplating. First ice pitch Slogging up some more snow brought me to one of my favorite parts of the whole trip. The second ice pitch was in interesting shape which made for such fun climbing! I'll let the picture of the pitch speak for itself. . More neve took me to the cloudy summit by 10:30. I was pretty surprised in how quickly the route took. In my head I had planned for it to take somewhere around 10 hours. Although it was exciting to finish the north face, I still had a long day ahead of me. I had the choice of doing either the Reid or Wy'East next. Initally, I thought I would do Wy'East because I have never been on the route and it had more vert. I have been up the Reid a couple of times now, each one uneventful. As I was descending I asked a few people if they knew the condition of a few routes. The group said the Reid wasn't in which immediately piqued my interest. Now it was settled, Reid first, Wy'East second. I walked down to illumination saddle and got my first look at the west face in the winter. It was so beautiful. Yocum demanded a solemn respect and a thin veil of clouds gave the face a sense of wonder. Looking up at the West Face I charged up the Reid with some mixture of apprehension and excitement. The first 1000 feet or so was simple snow climbing. As I got higher, I developed a rhythm where I would take 50 steps and then rest. Sometimes I would get gassed after 20, sometimes I would push and lose count. When the clouds broke, the Reid got interesting. Simple snow climbing turned into an exhausting swim as the snow turned warm. Quickly, my 50 step rhythm diminished into 5 or 6 steps of making little to no progress. It was no big deal though, I missed the simple joys of effort in the hills. Things got really fun when I reached some ice steps. Firstly, my feet were uncomfortable and my socks were approaching soggy from all the sweat I was making. Secondly, the "ice" was basically rock with some rime over it. I pulled some cool stemming moves and swung for the fences into the choss. My Grivel picks took it like a champ. After pulling a short but steep ice step, I climbed a mixture of alpine ice and snow to the ridge and then summit. By 3:00 I was on the summit for the second time. With the clouds now gone, I was rewarded with the typical Mt. Hood panorama. Now time for round 3. Snow early on the Reid Suns out guns out On top for the second time that day I was pretty stoked at this point. I felt like the hardest climbing was behind me and I knew I was well ahead of schedule. As a reward, I took another sip of my water supply and ate another GU. On the way down I ran into Walter Burkhardt who gave me some more stoke and energy to get the project done. Instead of walking to Palmer to get up to Wy'East, I traversed across the White River glacier. Traversing the glacier allowed me to save a some vert see a little more of the route in the last hour of sunlight. Walking up to the ridge on Wy'East was good snow climbing. When I gained the ridge, I encountered thin layers of snow and ice over rocks. Sometimes I would step on a seemingly normal spot of snow only to have the snow collapse and hit some rocks. Annoying but non-lethal. Climbing on the steel cliffs brought a whole new perspective to me. The sheer size and steepness of the cliffs is especially noticeable when you're on top. The traverse was easy and by around 7:45 I was back on top for the third time. Cool rime formation on the White River On the ridge Last steps before the summit I was feeling so great by now. All I had to do was run up the southside and the four faces of the mountain would be complete. Going up the Pearly Gates brought back the memories of climbing for the first time. So much had changed in the past few years except for the feeling I have in the mountains. Finishing the trip on the route that started it all just felt right. Ice step on Pearly Gates. I reached the summit for the fourth and final time at 8:40. What a trip it had been. I called my mom and she came to pick me up at Timberline an hour and some change later. (I have the best mom ever). Car to car, the trip took 18 hours 10 minutes and 5 seconds. I still had a bunch of food left and about half a liter of water. Reflecting on the trip brought me mixed feelings. I wanted it to be longer. I had envisioned some feat of endurance that would bring me to the depths of my inner self. Instead, I got home in time for (late) dinner. I'm happy that I got it done and thankful the mountain was kind to me that day. All in all I would highly recommend this trip to anyone interested. I would love to see someone beat my time or do different routes. Happy new year everyone. Gear Notes: 2 liters of water, 1200 calories, hardshell, synthetic jacket, and that's pretty much it Approach Notes: Approach to the North side is good and crevasses are easily manageable
  12. 2 points
    This reminds me of the guy who wrote that Petzl Aztars can only climb WI 3, when my partners and I were climbing WI-5 with completely straight shafted tools 25 years ago. Similarly, I have to disagree with the notion that 50 meter ropes are worthless in the alpine. When I started climbing 50 meter ropes were all you could buy. When 60 meter ropes came out, I jumped on board. 60 meters is still my go to length for cragging. For alpine climbing I went back to 50 meter ropes and I know a number of very strong, experienced guides and climbers who have done the same. Steve House and Vince Anderson climbed AND DESCENDED the Rupal Face with one 50 meter half rope and one 55 meter, 5.5mm tag line. A 50 meter 8-9 mm rope will be a very versatile rope for glaciers as well as for alpine climbing, ice climbing, alpine rock climbing when used with a second rope. Compare ropes using the weight in grams/meter rather than by diameter. Rope manufacturers fudge the advertised diameter by 0.2 mm (that 9.8 mm rope may actually be 10 mm), but cannot fudge the weight. Also, a really thin rope may seem like a great way to save weight, but don't go too thin or it will be harder to ascend and haul on.
  13. 1 point
    Trip: Stevens Pass - Yodelin Trip Date: 02/17/2020 Trip Report: Just trying to get the *freshie zone* awake again... had a great time out on Yodelin Monday morning and afternoon. 7-12 inches fresh snow over a crust, deeper up high, deep right-side-up drifts of snow in the trees. Excellent skiing. Wishing I could go out and enjoy more before the sun gets to it this week. Let’s hear some more reports! What are you all finding out there? Gear Notes: AT skis Approach Notes: Parking lot was surprisingly only host to a dozen or so vehicles on a holiday? Follow the road cuts up to rolling tree and glade skiing. Steeper terrain but denser trees available to the NE.
  14. 1 point
    Yahoo! My friend Deb and I were out there, too, I'm sure we chatted at some point. It was a stupendous day! Face shot after face shot!
  15. 1 point
    Yeah, a similar sort of stupidity is going on in Skagit County right now. Again related to liability, kicked off by a death in the local SAR community several years ago. It may well result in the death of the local MRA unit which has been serving Skagit County since 1962. Time will tell. Whatcom county Sheriff's office has a much better relationship with BMRU, but they also haven't had a SAR death recently.
  16. 1 point
    Approaching strobach will always be a bit of an ordeal, but if you hew closely to the attached .gpx there is almost zero bushwhacking or blowdowns. It follows the route we flagged a few years ago (2015?). I think the main key is that if you go directly from the road to mother lode, you encounter a ton of blowdown, but this gpx track swings to the right, generally onto a berm/ridge on the climbers left edge of a large boulder field, and provides much easier travel. I was in there in early January this year, and was surprised that almost all of the flagging was still there. It's not that much help if there's any snow on the trees/bushes, since you can't see most of it until you're right on top of it, but you're never more than twenty meters or so from a piece of orange so you can use it to verify that you're on the right track. strobach.gpx
  17. 1 point
    Trip: Mt Hood - Reid Glacier Headwall Trip Date: 02/12/2020 Trip Report: Solo'd and went slow, started 2:45, at saddle 5:45, topped out on West Crater 9:45, summit via Old Chute 11 AM. Planned on doing Leuthold but that didn't work out. Would have been nice to have brought another tool but the axe worked well. Climbed down from the saddle facing in since it was still dark but it wasn't that steep. Didn't see any crevasses at the bottom. Climbed over a mostly covered bergschrund near the bottom of the ramp without breaking through. The gullies were reasonably filled with firm snow and some ice, not too steep. Saw two climbers above me to the left near the bottom, they cruised up but made sure I made it out. Pick sticks and foot kicks were solid the whole way up. West Crater was softening quickly but the Old Chute was still hard even coming down. More stitched together images here, https://imgur.com/a/Lj07ROr. Gear Notes: Helmet, 1 tool, 1 axe, crampons Approach Notes: High 20s F, 30 MPH winds
  18. 1 point
    Looking for a trad climbing partner, for regular weekend trips every other weekend throughout 2020. I have a triple rack, tiny new z4's to big bros, 20 Years of experience, and enthusiasm to get out and explore. At the moment I'm out of shape after winter and climbing 5.10d Trad. I'd like to work up to regularly cruising 5.11 Multipitch routes, comfortably climbing 5.12 single pitch this season. Also available at Vertical World North for training weekday evenings. Feel free to contact me at 509-449-8753 or elihamblet@gmail.com with questions or introductions. Thanks, Eli Hamblet
  19. 1 point
    Hi not sure who to send this to. I placed an add for a ski pack last week. Got a series of responses from a guy David Walkins. It seems like a total scam. He wanted to send me 50$ more than the 100$ I asked for to let me know he was serious? I said no $100 plus shipping is fine- then he sent a certified check from a bank in Philadelphia. When it arrived it was for $870 and he sent a note -wanted me to cash it and give him back the difference...but he was going to have someone come by my house in Olympia to pick it up?? The envelope was sent from PA. I sent him back the check and said no deal. I am meeting another potential purchaser at Freddys today in Tacoma. Be careful
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    The Basic Mountaineering Course is being offered by the Skagit Alpine Club this year between April 8th and June 7th. The objective of the course is to introduce you to the mountains and teach the basics of climbing in the alpine environment. The entire course is run by volunteer members of the club The course is designed to teach the fundamentals of climbing in the alpine environment and provide you the skills necessary to safely travel and camp on snow and glaciers. The course not only introduces the fundamentals of climbing, but also provides an environment and opportunity for team building, trip planning, and building trust with climbing partners. The course consists of several weeks of classroom sessions and field outings. Classroom sessions will be on Wednesday evenings from 6:00 - 9:00 PM. The location of the classes is typically within the city of Burlington. The classroom sessions are accompanied by weekend outings to practice skills. Destinations for weekend outings are not predetermined and will be based on weather, road, and other conditions. The course is set to begin April 8th with the last outing being June 6-7th. The minimum requirements for registering for the Basic Mountaineering Course are: · Must 18 years and older · In good physical conditioning · Available to attend all the classes and outings To sign up for the course, go to the REGISTRATION PAGE. Options for the registration fee are provided once the registration form is submitted. For more information, visit the SAC website
  22. 1 point
    I'm not knocking the modern race at all. I'm more curious what new gear and techniques could shave off the original RT times from Glacier.
  23. 1 point
    Here is a better one. https://www.summitpost.org/so-you-want-to-climb-mt-rainier/507227 FWIW, if you are carrying 40 -60 pounds, you are doing it wrong.
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    Thank you for posting. There was a lot in the write up about Helmy that I didn't know. I'd heard third-hand that Fred referred to him as the smart one for going back to Germany and having a family. Don't know if that true, maybe Megan is around and will chime in. Helmy, Fred, Dee, et al were real trailblazers and true adventurers in the Cascades. Having completed new routes on Johannnesberg, Formidable, and Little Tahoma, I can say that going where no one has been before, where there is no description or cairn or tat, etc. is a very different experience. And in those cases we followed an established route down. What they did in terms of first summits with far less road access...man, that's an order of magnitude more commitment. Cheers to them all, and thank you for blazing those trails and routes that so many have joyfully followed.
  26. 1 point
    I used him to do some modifications to a pack and to build a holster for my alpine rock hammer. I was very pleased with the work and the price was very reasonable plus he picked up and delivered to my doorstep.
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    Looks real boney at the bottom for you guys from the couple times I've done it. Chock stone was covered as well. Top corner looks typically dry though. Nice job guys. It is a climb I really enjoy. Easy modern mixed and dry tooling on some nice granite. This is Craig at the entrance we used and a line drawing of where it was. Bit more snow on the chock stone Never was sure where Ade's party entered. Figured they traversed over to the same gully entrance. Ade's photo below. We went up the little gully at the black dotted line both times.
  29. 1 point
    I've since hopped on the Showa TEMRES 282 train after using them in wet and cold work conditions. I work as a climbing arborist, and tree work tends to destroy gloves. The blue Showa's are insanely durable, much more so than the orange ones I like. I might use the orange 406's more for spring stuff now and the TEMRES 282's for winter. I modified a couple of pairs recently with a cinch collar like Colin Haley does: But fans of these gloves will be excited to know that Showa is coming out with a new version of the 282's that are not smurf blue and have a collar already! https://andrewskurka.com/preview-showa-282-02-gloves/
  30. 1 point
    Looking for folks who are interested in sharing the ride up to Baker on a semi regular basis. I'm travelling from B'ham up to the area several times a week. Skiing both the resort and (if partners are available and appropriate) backcountry. Nothing crazy, mellow lines. And with carpooling, can save on the gas.
  31. 1 point
    Thank you. I try to keep things safe. I’ve still got a long journey ahead of me and am learning as much as I can. Some lessons come cheaper than others.
  32. 1 point
    Wow! Looks much drier than it was when we climbed it:
  33. 1 point
    Nice write up. I always appreciate the honesty in a good TR. there are always mixed feelings in big climbs. Congrats on an exciting day in the hills.
  34. 1 point
    Really glad everyone made it back safe! I appreciate reading your words about maybe getting too bold/just getting lucky. I was curious about this detail, @PorterM"It was a tad techy so I fixed a cordelette as a hand line in a few spots for extra security." Do you mean you soloed up this section first, and fixed that line for your partners?
  35. 1 point
    Strong work lads! While it seems like you had things well in hand, second guessing your decisions, even after a successful outing, will help to make your alpine careers long and productive.
  36. 1 point
    Routes like these aren't consistently in all the time so it makes sense that once it gets reported as "in", the masses will appear! It took me several gos to make it happen over about a decade or so. Good on everyone knocking it off so efficiently!
  37. 1 point
    I agree about the quality. Eric Sweet and I made what I believe to be the second ascent in November 2002, in 'sportier' conditions than currently and it is one of my all time favorite mixed winter alpine climbs. Up there with NE Buttress of J'berg in winter. I have some photos of our ascent on summitpost.org: https://www.summitpost.org/northwest-ice-couloir/688985 for comparison. The cruxes were climbing steep, thin ice past big chockstones. I even belayed in a cave formed by one. We were both climbing on Black Diamond Shrikes and Charlet-Moser S-12s, which did not fit Eric's first gen Scarpa Freneys. He lost a crampon below the the last steep ice pitch below the summit. Rather than surrender the fantastic lead, he climbed the rig with one crampon on the ice, the other boot scumming the rock.
  38. 1 point
    I love that the cc.com effect is back. Many moons ago it was a common thing to see a crowd the next weekend on whatever had a bunch of online traffic during the week.
  39. 1 point
    i may catch grief for this but old ropes are fine for glacier travel. even if they are a bit static-y. the nature of glacier falls is such that the rope cutting into snow takes a bunch of the forces and makes the rope seem dynamic. I am not suggesting to use a static rope like back in the DAY, but an old rope that has lost some stretchiness is not a big deal.
  40. 1 point
    yup to DPS. 50m x 8-ish (whatever on sale) mm rope is great for glacier travel. 60m is kinda long and if there are 5 people in group, bring two ropes.
  41. 1 point
    I totally agree with Gene. Long rappels in the Cascades are tough due to the ledgy, vegetated nature of the climbing here. 50 is plenty, and rarely come up short while leading, and like Gene said you can always simu-climb. needto climbalso made a good point: "You also have a lot of experience to go with a 50m so can "go back" to it. Trying to give the guy advice so he only needs one rope and not having to worry about if his 50m rope is long enough to get him down on routes that are mainly put up with 60's now days. " I do have experience, and no fewer than six ropes at this moment. There is no one ideal boot or pack for all objectives. Climbers will ultimately end up owning different footwear and packs for the wide variety of climbs they will encounter. Ropes are similar. The OP wants a rope to climb Mt. Baker. 50m in an 8ish mm diameter is a great choice. If the OP wants to take up rock climbing, as in cragging, I agree a 60 meter, ~10 mm, single rope would be better suited. FYIY, 8.5 mm is my choice as well, in Edelweiss, Sharp, Everdry 50 meters. Had to special order them from Pro Mountain Sports, but they are totally worth what they cost. They are probably 11 years old, well past their freshness date. I should retire them, after all I have a fresh pair still in plastic. Anybody have use for two, 50 meter dry half ropes, one green, one purple? Rug art? Tire swing? Tie lumber down in the back of your pickup? I would personally still climb on them, especially just for glacier travel, but at 11 years old (never been set on the ground, never fallen on, stored in a giant plastic bin), I can't endorse anyone doing the same. The purple one is considerably newer with much less mileage, maybe joecav is interested in a donor for glacier routes, free of course.
  42. 1 point
    Just saying that most newer routes are put up with 60m ropes. Steve House and Vince Anderson are in a different class than someone who has taken one course and it asking about his first rope. You also have a lot of experience to go with a 50m so can "go back" to it. Trying to give the guy advice so he only needs one rope and not having to worry about if his 50m rope is long enough to get him down on routes that are mainly put up with 60's now days. I'd rather see someone new carry a little bit extra weight than rappel off the ends of their rope or have to simul-climb a bit. With experience comes the ability to go lighter and faster. "Worthless" may have been a bad choice of words though. A 50m isn't worthless, you just need to know when to use it. In this case, based on his question, he doesn't have the experience yet when to use it other than glacier travel. A 60 is simply more versatile for one all-around rope is all I am saying. I would recommend if you are going to get one rope to start with for multitude different climbing styles, it would be one 60m mid 9mm rope. It will do glacier, alpine and cragging. For only glacier, a 50m, 8.5 would be my choice. On my 8.2mm, prusiks suck in trying to get bite but the Sterling Autoblocks work great and grab very well. Microtraxion also grabs the 8.2. Perfect world for me (The diameter listed below is a ballpark.) 40M 8mm glacier rope for two or three man travel on smaller glaciers. It would also work for ski mountaineering or scramble routes where you are not sure if you will need a rope, but want one in your back just in case. Double 60m 8mm ropes for wandering alpine routes or double-rope rappels are mandatory. Use one for larger glacier parties or where crevasses are bigger (Rainier.) 60m 9.5mm for alpine routes where single rope rappels will get you down and for shorter crags. 70m 9.8mm for longer cragging routes This I did not now about diameters being off. Thanks. I also started when a 50 was all I could buy. Then 60's, now 70's and even 80's. When is the madness going to stop? Who the heck wants to carry an 80 meter rope?
  43. 1 point
    I use one an 8.2mm dry rope for all my glacier travel. 60m long. It is 60m as it is part of my double ropes for alpine climbing. It weighs 5.5 lbs. I could chop it to 40 meters and save 2 pounds, but then I would need to buy another rope for my doubles. I don't mind the 60 as that lets me put 3-4 people on the rope with some room on the ends. When I go with just one person, each of us has enough coils to perform a rescue. Remember that for a two-man team, each person needs coils that are just longer than the span between them to be able to drop the other end down. You will see a lot of two-man, and three-man teams tied into the ends of a short rope but that gives them nothing extra for rescue. 50m would be long enough for a 2-3 man as well. 50m is almost worthless rock climbing or in the alpine though as most routes are 60. Your 50m rope would be dedicated only to glacier, while a 60 can do both. Also, if you get into where you cross glaciers then onto rock, a thin rope can be folded over and then used as a double for the rock climb if the pitches are short or you are simulclimbing.
  44. 1 point
    Trip: Alaska - West Ridge of Mt. Hunter (Begguya) Trip Date: 06/07/2019 Trip Report: It wasn't apart of the plan, it wasn't necessarily on our radar. My partner and I were coming off of a total failure. We had spent time and energy to attempt to climb the Cassin Ridge. We spent 2 and a half weeks acclimatizing and waiting for a proper window at 14,000’ camp. Including reaching the summit from 14’ camp round trip in less than 12 hours. We were feeling good and were poised to send. All the work was going to pay off, all the time, energy and money were going to come to fruition. After descending down the Seattle Ramp to close to the base of the Japanese Couloir, my partner started displaying signs of HAPE. He wasn't exactly a rockstar at altitude while we were acclimatizing, but this came out of absolutely nowhere. It was out of the blue and I didn't know how to react. It wasn't setting in yet, the fact that we had to keep walking downhill, right past the base of the route we had been planning on for months. It wasn't until we were walking out the Valley of Death in the middle of the day, sweating and scared. Chance (my partner) was feeling better as we descended and our plan was to head to 7800’ camp. Eventually making it to the safety of camp we contemplated what to do. It had finally sunk in, that we bailed on our main objective. I was pissed and mad. Not at Chance, but at the circumstances. Chance wanted to head back up since he was feeling better. I was adamant was that I wasn't going to go through all of that again. Knowing that there was no way he was going to be 100 percent. I told him to stay at 7800’ camp, while I go up and retrieve all of our gear from 14,000' camp. And boy did we have a lot of stuff at that camp. I ran up to the camp in less than 6 hours and slept the night at 14,000’. Planning on descending the next day. I packed up my 100-liter pack and 2 sleds full of gear. With so much gear I shuttled loads up and down Windy corner and Squirrel Hill. Against my wishes, Chance met me up at 11,000' camp to help the gear shuttling shitshow. We then made it down to 7800’ camp and discussed our options. We settled on heading down to the Airstrip where we had friends and booze. With maybe having a chance at the West Ridge. A few days go by and we get a solid 2-day weather window to try something. Chance and I settle on the West Ridge of Hunter, where we will be accompanied by our friends Ryan and Chris. Just coming off a successful ski descent of Denali via the Messner Couloir and were looking for some more exciting “climbing”, or so we thought. We leave at 6 pm the day before the weather window, skinning down to the base of the route at 6500’. The first section is snow and has some considerable overhead hazard. We are able to move quickly and make our way up to the Cats Ears, where we rappeled 2 60 meter rappels to the base of ice face. We kept trucking along the beautiful ridgeline until we got to the rock steps. Where the 5.8 Beckey Chimney proved to be more demanding than expected, a few more simul pitches of some easy mixed terrain brought us to a nice bivy at around 4 am. We then slept until 10 am and continued on the ridge. Some more rambling ridge terrain moved slowly on, as we were tunneling through cornices and were dealing with some deep snow. We finally got to the base of the “Ice face” which didn't have any ice on it. Just before hitting the saddle, Chance was downclimbing a snow face and he took a crevasse fall, fully overhead. After pulling him out, the 4 of us were a bit shaken. We still had lots of ridge to go and were unsure of the weather in the future. Ryan and Chris made the decision to bail back down from there. Leaving Chance and I a bit more out there than we were planning. We were sad to see those 2 go but knew that we were going to be able to move a bit faster and focus more on the climbing. We continued moving up, passing another easy mixed pitch and passing an overhanging ice serac feature that required legit WI5 ice climbing, even for just a body length. We made it to the top of the famed Ramen Couloir and got caught in a whiteout, with no ability to see where we were going, we decided to bivy again. Splitting one mountain house between us and taking rations for food. We had planned on a single push effort, but with the weather, we had decided to wait until the morning. After sending out messages for weather info, we had received confirmation that we would have a full day of climbable weather the following day. We slept and woke to beautiful clear skies and the ability to see the route in front of us. A bit of new snow, made trail breaking slightly more difficult but after some chest deep postholing, we ventured onto the Summit Plateau. The Plateau seemed safe and smooth, and we couldn't see any cracks. Honestly, we both got complacent (mostly Chance) and he walked up on me while I was trying to route find. The new snow had blanketed a massive crevasse and I popped in 25 feet. Dropping my trekking pole and a picket. I was fortunate to be ok and was able to climb out. We learned from our mistakes and kept going to the summit. The final 50-degree snow pitch turned out to be blue ice covered in 3 inches of snow. It made for slower progress than anticipated, but we were on the summit of Mt. Hunter after a short ridge traverse. We saw wonderful views of the South Face of Denali and all other parts of the range. Now we just had to get down. We descended back to the camp above the Ramen Couloir and finished our food, besides one single Gu. We made 5 or 6 V-thread rappels down the top of the Ramen Couloir and decided to unrope and start downclimbing. The conditions were great besides the final 1000 feet, where it turned into 3-inch breakable crust to bottomless facets. Eventually making our way to the base of the Ramen somewhere around midnight. Out of food and wasted we were unsure where the sneak around was. The Supertopo beta we had said to climb 700 feet up an “easy snow slope” We blindly started rappelling into a couloir and had to climb back out. Chance and I are great friends, but in this instant, we were mad at each other and tempers were flaring. We took a pause at 2 am and brewed up, realizing being mad wasn't going to solve any of our problems. We had a description, but couldn't pick the correct gully. Finally choosing one. Knowing that we could see the bottom of the couloir but not the middle. We choose to descend as any more time up there could turn out poorly. We left gear all of the places, using all of the slings we had, even expending my prusik cord. 1 nut anchors and shitty chossy cam placements led us down to more steep snow. Similar to the conditions in the Ramen but worse we made slow progress. This was where I had started to hallucinate. The snow was so variable that the mini slide paths in the couloir proved firm enough to front point down, whereas the rest of the snow surface proved slow and postholey. The trick of the slide gullies was to get out of them when the barrage of rocks and ice funneled down the 5 foot deep paths. It was a risk, but I wanted to get off this thing so bad, the safety of the Kahiltna was right in front of us. The whole ordeal from the bottom of the Ramen to the Safety of the Kahiltna lasted around 10 hours. We then walked back to our skis at the base of the route. While walking on the Kahiltna a heavy cloud layer moved in and started dumping snow on us. We just really didn't care. We were off and thankful to be alive. With no food, fuel and very little water left we continued the journey back to the Airstrip. Our GPS’s on our phones had died and were “walking blind”. Chance took us into the wrong basin mistaking it for the Airstrip, realizing just short of some extremely crevassed area. We finally make it back to our camp at the Airstrip and stuff our faces of bacon and sausages and chocolate. It's now 5 pm and we had been awake and on the move for the past 36 hours. Those 36 hours didn't contain the hardest climbing I have ever done, but they pushed Chance and I the farthest we have ever gone. Those 36 hours gave me the most intense time period my young adult life has had so far. And the best part was I fucking liked it. As of the time of writing, we were the only party to have climbed Mt Hunter in the 2019 climbing season. The only team to have climbed the full West Ridge in at least 2 years. And both at the age of 21, we believe we were the youngest team ascent of the West Ridge and possibly the summit of Mt. Hunter via any route. Not that any of that matters, but I like to feed my ego sometimes. Please reach out if you know of anything different. Gear Notes: 5 Screws, 2 pickets, a small selection of cams. Approach Notes: K2 Aviation
  45. 1 point
    Trip: Chair Peak, WA - NE Buttress winter Date: 1/14/2017 Trip Report: We used the beta for the Chair Peak NE Buttress route from RobUSA of RocknRopeNW There were at least 4 teams attempting the route yesterday including us. Since the beta is already good, I'll focus on the conditions. Timing: Left the car at 5:40, arrived at the base of the climb at 8:00, summited at 14:20, started the rappel at 15:40 and back at the car at 16:45. P1: The S gulley has decent snow, little ice and some exposed rock steps. There is a slung horn about half way through. Built an anchor in the trees. P2: Snow conditions were really bad, a 1" crust of ice over 2-3 feet of super dry powder. We were postholing and breaking chunks of crust that would fall down P1. This probably discouraged the other teams from attempting P1. Anchor was a slung lone tree. P3: Same bad snow conditions, minimal opportunities for pro. We built the anchor at the bottom left of the ice step with 2 cams and an ice screw. P4: The ice step was in good condition, thick and solid. We climbed it from the right side. Afterwards, the snow slope was solid for kick stepping. I built an anchor when I ran out of rope with a picket and pitons just 10ft short of the next trees... This anchor is consistently hard to find and build for many parties. P5: The snow became crusty again. Belayed from the the other side of the ridge just before the small summit block. We saw faint footsteps near the summit but none on the route. We descended a gully on the SW side of Chair before going back up East to the rappel notch. The west side was receiving a lot of sun turning the snow to slush. Single 60m rappel from the notch brought us to a manageable steep slope. We saw many rap stations during the rappel. The anchor is three rusted pitons that sounded fine and we backed it up with a .75 cam. We walked back to our stashed skis and skied all the way to the car. [video:youtube] Detailed GPS: http://caltopo.com/m/5528 Gear Notes: Cams to .3 to 1, .75 used to back up the rappel Thin pitons Small nuts 2 Pickets 10 alpine draws 5 ice screws (10cm to 21cm) 1 ice tool and 1 hybrid tool (BD venom) Tat, knife, quicklink... 70m rope and 60m tag line for the rappel. Approach Notes: Started at the upper Alpental lot with AT gear. Followed the climbers left side of the Source lake drainage. Booted up the second half of the Chair peak basin to the start of the climb.
  46. 1 point
    Hi, Keith Stevens/Royster here. Regarding the north pillar of Rooster Comb, I seem to recall thin ice and lets say sparce protection as the rule on both of the Rooster Comb routes I was involved in. In ten years of time in the Alaska range I have found consistently better conditions in general early in the year. This is not the lower 48. Doug Scott and Dougal Haston, following an oxygenless ascent of Sagarmatha (everest)did a new route on the south face of Denali. By their own admonition grossly underestimated their undertaking.The Alaska Range is at 63* North Latitude, Sagarmatha 27*, this pressure difference changes the metamorphosis of water considerably due to the sunlight hours available. It gets worse, or shall we say more variable the later you go into the range for mixed routes.You can have equal temperatures from sea level to 4500 meters at times on Denali from the spring to late summer due to its latitude. The Alaska Range has a whole different set of things to consider to be successful climbing there. There are no mountains like the Alaska Range anywhere else in the world. Their geographical position requires a different set of tactics. To simplify, Jay and I chose earlier,colder, be fit,go faster based on previous experience in the range by our selves and others like Muggs and Rob and the McNurtneys, Haston and Scott. At this point, it seems a pair of you modern day bad asses (lol) could pull this plumb off by flying in in March or early April and blasting up this thing in a day! After all Jay and I were using a little bit less sophisticated tools. ( I still have both of those 55cm bamboo Zeros made by the master Yvonne Chouinard and GPIW in the chimney photo) I had a silver headed hummingbird for a third tool,Chouinard rigid crampons,and Galibier double boots. They worked fine. I think it will go, fly in, FIRE IT and fly out.......earlier,fit,fast,and you can leave the colder for BEER and SCOTCH at the Roadhouse in Talkeetna!!!!!! I can't wait to read about it!! Good luck to you all. Old and Slow, Keith Stevens. p.s. I have some other photos of the Rooster and Huntington, I'll see what I can find.
  47. 1 point
    Trip: HOOD - Coe Glacier Icefall Date: 5/11/2013 Trip Report: OlegV and I climbed the rarely visited Coe glacier Icefall on the north side of Hood in two rounds for full measure. 10/05/2012 On a nice day in early October, we started at the Cloud Cap and took the around Hood trail #600 towards the beautiful Elk Cove. 5 min from the parking lot, the trail ended in cliffed out banks of the Eliot creek, not producing much confidence after the 2006’ washout. After rapping down in the creek, Oleg, a brave soul, “led” aka free soloed the other side with precariously hanging boulders to the top of west Eliot morain. Eliot Creek crossing was very enjoyable and certainly a highlight of the entire trip: Yep, don’t do it: Oleg on the trail #600: After reaching west lateral morain of Languille gl., we cut south towards the Coe: And dropped down on Coe @ OV2 (7400’): Things on Coe were looking good and as expected: bullet-proof alpine ice and holes everywhere. After reaching the lower icefall, we pitched in the tent in protected spot which was a job on its own: [video:vimeo]50950067 As always, Hood made its own fancy clouds at sunset: Next morning we packed up and headed up trying to get through barricades to the shelf leading to the Snow Dome which was not happening as fast as it should had: The higher we got the more we were finding ourselves surrounded by bottomless abysses. Ice features were more intricate than on Price: With the lack of upward progress, we called it quits somewhere in the middle of icefall and made our way down on the endless V-threads. The chess game. We lost it this time: Eliot Creek crossing followed. 05/11/2013 With the Cloud Cap road still being closed, we settled on the standard approach via Snow Dome given in Ore High. Due to different work schedules, we started separately at the Tilly Jane TH @ 3800’. While Oleg was getting off work, I uneventfully hiked to the Snow Dome @ 9100’ and pitched in the tent by the shrund. North Face is thin, but in. The shrund is wall-to-wall, so take you chances. Oleg emerging on the Snow Dome: At the camp: Next morning we slogged down to the notch marking the start of the famous “crappy gully” and downclimbed 1000’ to the Coe below the hanging icecliffs: The traverse to the middle of the glacier was sketchy. Here it is where you’ve got to sprint across the obvious runway made by objects falling off the hanging icecliffs. When we thought we were in the safe spot, Oleg punched through the crevasse but climbed out of it. For some bizarre reason, I followed his example and ended up in the same crevasse after another bridge failed. Happy to get up on the solid ground: Lower Coe icefall: We rope soloed the entire route as it was in more straightforward shape than back in October. Kind of disappointing, really. Approaching the upper Coe: Upper Coe: Jumping over more crevasses: Oleg on the Cathedral ridge: Oleg on the summit ridge: We descended the Cathedral ridge to the shelf splitting the lower and upper Coe. Getting down to the Coe was tricky as you gotta jump through the moat: On the final slog towards the Snow Dome: Gear Notes: Screws and 2 pickets Approach Notes: Trail 600 or Snow Dome
  48. 1 point
    Climb Note: Mt Hood Wy'East 2003-Feb-14 Climb Date: 14-Feb-03, Valentine's day Team: Monty Smith (L), Tim Scott (AL), Francis Chockalingam, Mark Seker Notes Date: 19-Feb-03 Revision: 1.2 Notes Author: Mark Seker (primary), with edits by Tim Scott and Monty Smith Reference: URL for photos http://members19.clubphoto.com/monty672735/1148318/ Climb Summary: from the timberline lodge trailhead, our team of 4 ascended to summit on the exploratory (for us) Wy'east route, descending the dog route. Weather held out free of precipitation, cloudless above and virtually wind free over entire route. 8:55 hours to summit, 0:42 hours on summit performing various antics; 2:17 hours to return to trailhead, except for Tim, whose hi-tech glissade device saved him 25 mins on the descent. Route finding above 9770' was our primary challenge, and this final section took us more than 4 hours to complete. Winter daytime climb conditions allowed headlamp-free travel, except the final hour of descent, which was lit by moonlight (one of the two fully exposed moons the team saw this day). Conditions - Expected: Significant new snow had not fallen anywhere on the route for at least 4-5 days, weather being generally clear thru the region. New fronts were threatening, including a weak precip-producing cloud layer on climb day, but we expected a window long enough for our climb before the major change expected the day after (Saturday) this climb. Snow level dropping from 6000' to 4500' today. Conditions - Actual: Clouds in Portland and rain in Sandy on climb day were perilous, but the cloud deck was thin at Timberline trailhead, where a dusting of snow had fallen during the night. Starting weather was inside the top of a cloud layer, 29 degrees and light wind. Temperature was steady all day, seeming hot during windless sunny ascent (often in single layer clothing) although frozen water in jugs indicated air was below 30 degrees. Snow conditions were good the entire route allowing secure travel with crampons and ice ax; this means we could kick steps in consolidated but not icy snow almost the entire route. In addition, no ice screws were used, as a single picket per line could be made secure for the running belay used. Some exceptions were noted for a few rock steps above 9800', occasional holes or hollow spots, and random sun-glazed ice (mostly on the down route between crater rock and palmer lift) Above 10,000' we all used an ice tool with our ice ax, although no hard ice was encountered. Gear: We each had the Mt Hood dog route gear, but added for each: 1 picket, 1 ice tool, avy beacon, pulley/biners for crevasse rescue. Additional team gear carried: 3 biv bags, 6 ice screws, MLU, 2 cell phones, 2 cameras, 2 shovels, 3 thermal pads, and one 50M 10.5 dry rope. Gear we wished we had: 3-4 more pickets would have reduced the number of lead changes required, and saved some time. Camera tripod for summit team photo. More props for summit antics, as the summit wind did not cooperate enough to even fly the kite! No wind on summit, what a bummer. Detailed Travel Log: ============================= Time / Altitude / What was happening ============================= 07:21 alt 5995 depart timberline lot; to silcox hut (break); exited cloud layer before silcox, and remained in bright sun until sunset; angled up to right to knob on w edge of wht river valley 09:02 alt 8295 arrive at knob on wht river cross into wht river glacier valley; harnessed and roped from here to summit; order: Monty, Francis, Mark, Tim using entire 50m rope with 3-4 kiwi coils on ends. Prusiks installed to cross wht river glacier. This exit point over ridge between palmer and wht glaciers was perfect, providing an easy ramp "down" to wht river glacier and almost no elevation loss. After crossing glacier above some obvious snow-covered crevasses we chose to head up the fall line of the lateral moraine to wy'east ridge versus taking the topo line traverse. Estimate 35 degree slope at steepest point. 10:00 (alt 8500?) exit wht river glacier valley, approx 1 hour after entering. 11:59 alt 9770 top of wyeast ridge, where it hit steele cliffs rocks; place first pro below rocks; removed prusiks. Now the route-finding fun began, having to repeatedly decide to ascend up or traverse right below rock outcrops. All but a few hundred feet of the top 1500' needed picket pro, and we had to switch leads 3 times to move safely with running belay and at least one picket. Occasional hazard of balling up crampons, hidden holes (Monty went to waist once) and tricky moves around a few rocks. Route finding was helped in several places by footprints of prior team on route still visible from another day. Slope averaged 35-50 degrees, and we often were on a high-angle traverse, effectively winding around to the north to avoid the rocks above and not ascending the fall line. 13:46 alt 10360 stop using pro on "bomber snow" slope just below ridge; arrive at ridge top to see over steele cliffs into crater for first time; team gathered together for final time before summit, trading food and smiles. 14:02 alt 10555 start pro again; ref Monty's "redlined" photo to see route chosen. Lead was switched once from here to summit, so Tim topped out first. This was the coolest part of the trip. 6 pitches of snow on steep, exposed slopes. Some tough foot placement situations and a traverse on a steep section before the final turn up to the summit. Very cool. Steepest slope estimated near 60 degrees. 16:16 alt 11250 summit; no wind, CAVU conditions in all directions. Lower cloud deck below 6500' now gone. Ate lunch, emptied natural bladders, performed antics pictures; one party of 2 had taken dog route that day many hours ahead of us, otherwise we were the only climb party this day. 16:54 alt 11250 depart summit for dog route down; no rope, harness, ice tools used in descent. Crampons needed until palmer lift due to icy patches; Mark and Francis chose to alternate glissade and falling on asses on hard spots from 10,000 to 8500', which caused profanity. Watched moonrise (ref photos) over steele cliffs, as we alternated glissading and walking down. Did not encounter any other people, including skiers/boarders over entire route today. 19:11 alt 5960 arrive at car, drink beer the end //