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#616247 - 12/10/06 08:20 PM 3 Lost on Mount Hood *****
cluck Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 01/16/03
Posts: 523
TRs: 12 Photos: 131
Loc: Portland, OR
NOTE
This is a closed thread, the first of two relating to the recent search on Mt Hood. This thread is not open to comment or additions, but is kept at the top of the forum as a source of information and chronology for those interested in events and research.

Off White - moderator at Cascadeclimbers.com
_____________________________________________________________


Hood River Sheriff's office is leading a search for 3 missing climbers lost on the North Side of Hood. Apparently, a party of 3 headed up Elliot Headwall on Wednesday or Thursday but never met their ride at Timberline. One of the 3 was able to get a brief call out to his wife today and reported that they had been stuck in a snow cave somewhere below the summit for several days. I guess his 2 buddies left him to go down Cooper Spur for help sometime either Saturday or Sunday and have not been heard from since.

News Link

At this point, it sounds like there is one person in pretty bad shape stuck in a snow hole on the North side near the summit and 2 more lost somewhere on the North side. Weather conditions on the south side today were pretty nuclear and I expect the north side was no picnic either. The rescue attempt will be a difficult and complicated one. PMR and Hood River Crag Rats are sending teams up at first light tomorrow.

Sure hope these guys make it out of this mess. My thoughts & prayers go out to them and their families...


Edited by Off_White (12/20/06 10:53 AM)
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#616256 - 12/10/06 09:06 PM Re: 3 Lost on Mount Hood [Re: cluck]
gapertimmy Offline
spray'prentice

Registered: 10/28/00
Posts: 4493
TRs: 42 Photos: 252
Loc: YARRRR
+++ positive vibes being sent their way \:\(
_________________________
timmy... the champagne of gapers

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#616283 - 12/10/06 10:13 PM Re: 3 Lost on Mount Hood [Re: cluck]
billcoe Offline
Spray Master

Registered: 10/02/02
Posts: 11929
TRs: 4 Photos: 872
Loc: pdx
Originally Posted By: cluck
My thoughts & prayers go out to them and their families...


And to the brave few going up to get them. Hoping they have great conditions and no loose rock or ice blocks if they decide to rap down the N Face.

shit


Edited by billcoe (12/10/06 10:14 PM)

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#616291 - 12/10/06 10:39 PM Re: 3 Lost on Mount Hood [Re: billcoe]
Couloir Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 10/22/04
Posts: 1704
TRs: 1 Photos: 14
Loc: Portland
Hang in there fellas, the best of the best are headed your way.

KATU News

Barker?

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#616294 - 12/10/06 11:02 PM Re: 3 Lost on Mount Hood [Re: Couloir]
barkernews Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/30/04
Posts: 251
TRs: 0 Photos: 6
Loc: Gunnison, CO
I'm en route.

Spent today patrolling at Meadows. Got knocked over by a 70+ MPH gust at the top of Cascade. The WX is Ghetto.

Poor guys.

More later...
_________________________
http://barkernews.blogspot.com

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#616295 - 12/10/06 11:03 PM Re: 3 Lost on Mount Hood [Re: barkernews]
Couloir Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 10/22/04
Posts: 1704
TRs: 1 Photos: 14
Loc: Portland
Thanks dude. Stay safe.

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#616309 - 12/11/06 07:07 AM Re: 3 Lost on Mount Hood [Re: cluck]
John Frieh Offline
sprayer

Registered: 11/08/03
Posts: 6290
TRs: 56 Photos: 1214
Loc: PDX

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#616314 - 12/11/06 07:39 AM Re: 3 Lost on Mount Hood [Re: John Frieh]
Chad_A Offline
veteran

Registered: 12/24/03
Posts: 1500
TRs: 14 Photos: 371
Loc: Bellingham, WA
Man, this is terrible. I think our party met them when we were in the area Thursday. Here's to hoping for a good outcome, and for a safe return for the SAR people, as well.
_________________________
"prepare, do your best, and continue trying after failures." -George Lowe

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#616333 - 12/11/06 08:47 AM Re: 3 Lost on Mount Hood [Re: Chad_A]
olyclimber Offline
☼☼☼☼☼☼☼

Registered: 09/19/03
Posts: 25224
TRs: 47 Photos: 893
Loc: In Love with You
Best wishes going out to everyone involved.

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#616336 - 12/11/06 08:53 AM Re: 3 Lost on Mount Hood [Re: olyclimber]
fheimerd Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/24/05
Posts: 229
TRs: 9 Photos: 18
Loc: Portland, Or
thinking of all involved up there. the weather sucks for this to happen, keep safe

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#616341 - 12/11/06 09:10 AM Re: 3 Lost on Mount Hood [Re: fheimerd]
Winter Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 11/13/00
Posts: 2375
TRs: 20 Photos: 188
Loc: freshiez!
Man, this sucks. I'm sure they've had a rough couple of days up there. Hopefully the PMR folks will get go get them and bring them all back safe.
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chriswinter.blogspot.com

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#616344 - 12/11/06 09:19 AM Re: 3 Lost on Mount Hood [Re: Winter]
barkernews Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/30/04
Posts: 251
TRs: 0 Photos: 6
Loc: Gunnison, CO
Hey ya'll.

Apparently the climbers are fairly experienced. Sounds like they've got experience on Rainier, Denali and the Andes. That's the good news.

The bad news is they left Friday from Tilly Jane and planned to finish Saturday at T-Line. Of course, if they're that experienced perhaps they're used to digging in for a couple of nights. Sounds like they had bivy sacks, too!

I'm told they left a note at the Parkdale ranger station detailing their route and experience. Sounds like they were going climbers right on the Elliot... not the Cooper Spur route.

Best of luck to everyone...
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#616348 - 12/11/06 09:30 AM Re: 3 Lost on Mount Hood [Re: barkernews]
billcoe Offline
Spray Master

Registered: 10/02/02
Posts: 11929
TRs: 4 Photos: 872
Loc: pdx
Damn it must be a howling gadamn gale up there right now.

Shit.

Anybody wants to pray, pray for a weather window for these guys right now.

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#616353 - 12/11/06 09:42 AM Re: 3 Lost on Mount Hood [Re: billcoe]
Winter Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 11/13/00
Posts: 2375
TRs: 20 Photos: 188
Loc: freshiez!
Sometime early Thursday morning, the men, who have not been identified by authorities, slipped a handwritten note in the mail slot of the office for the Hood River National Forest, said Doug Jones, permit specialist with the Mount Hood National Forest.

“We don’t see these very often,” Jones said.

All entry points into the wilderness have self-issue permit boxes where climbers and hikers are supposed to leave their permits to enter the forest, “but they are not really kept up during the winter,” Jones said.

He said there is no climbing register where the men started their climb. He said there is a permit box, but since they are not from the area it is likely they did not spot it, Jones said. The climbers instead jotted a note and left it at the forest office on Oregon 35, south of Hood River.

He said in the brief note they said they planned to take the route through the coulirs, or canyons, on the north face, “which tells me that they are probably going up to the right side of Elliot Glacier,” Jones said. “The Cooper Spur route goes left. There are no coulirs up there.”

Uggghh.


Edited by Winter (12/11/06 09:44 AM)
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#616356 - 12/11/06 09:46 AM Re: 3 Lost on Mount Hood [Re: billcoe]
lbeam Offline
n00b

Registered: 12/11/06
Posts: 38
TRs: 0 Photos: 1
Loc: Portland
I noticed that foggetaboutit was asking for beta on the NF of Hood and had planned to climb around the 2nd week of December. I wonder of this is his group...

We were up skiing yesterday and the weather sucked above T-line. My hubby left early this morning to help with the search, it's not going to be fun for those guys and for the climbers in need of help.
BEST WISHES FOR ALL.

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#616359 - 12/11/06 09:56 AM Re: 3 Lost on Mount Hood [Re: lbeam]
gslater Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 09/18/02
Posts: 327
TRs: 0 Photos: 2
Loc: Idaho's Portugal
Looking at fuggedaboudit's post from a while back, it sure does look like it could be them. One of his comments included the following:

"I will definetely post pics and a TR with approach conditions. Also will be trying out a half sleeping bag/DAS parka bivy system, will let you all know exactly how much that sucks if I have to use it-yes I know, "if you bring bivy gear you will bivy"."

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#616364 - 12/11/06 10:02 AM Re: 3 Lost on Mount Hood [Re: gslater]
ryland_moore Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 02/09/01
Posts: 1690
TRs: 5 Photos: 45
Loc: Hood River, Oregon
Oh man well let's hope they did bring that bivy sack.....Praying that everyone stays safe up here....


Edited by ryland_moore (12/11/06 02:59 PM)
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Someday the Mountain Might get 'em but the law never will - Theme Song From Dukes of Hazard

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#616366 - 12/11/06 10:02 AM Re: 3 Lost on Mount Hood [Re: gslater]
ivan Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 03/12/02
Posts: 17370
TRs: 118 Photos: 1803
Loc: Oceania
wow
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Ignorance is Strength
War is Peace
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#616372 - 12/11/06 10:10 AM Re: 3 Lost on Mount Hood [Re: Winter]
billcoe Offline
Spray Master

Registered: 10/02/02
Posts: 11929
TRs: 4 Photos: 872
Loc: pdx
Originally Posted By: Winter


He said in the brief note they said they planned to take the route through the coulirs, or canyons, on the north face, “which tells me that they are probably going up to the right side of Elliot Glacier,” Jones said. “The Cooper Spur route goes left. There are no coulirs up there.”

Uggghh.


Hmmmm - more likely be one of the 2 North Face couloir routes up on the left of the NF, to the right of the Cooper Spur route. That would also minimise the slog in in deep snow, shorten a long winter hike a bit, and minimize the potential of ripping through a crevase on the Elliot or Coe Glacier as you crossed since many of the openings are most likly somewhat likely covered by snow now. Given the amount of snow lately, wonder if looking at the base of those routes - checking for obvious avalance debris - for the 2 guys who left the snowcave is the highest likelyhood of finding them.

Did cell phone caller have an altimeter reading? It would be a lot easier to get to him if he's in one of the gullys than trying to drop down the Elliot which probably has a bit of a nasty overhanging cornice on it right now given how the weathers been I'd bet.

He might be in luck if he's only a pitch or 2 from the top.



Image of the NF avalance gully by crackman in better conditions 2004 (TimmyH). Coinkadentally, Tim was trolling for a partner to head up on the 7th to do about any route on Hood, Tim check in yet?

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#616374 - 12/11/06 10:12 AM Re: 3 Lost on Mount Hood [Re: ivan]
fheimerd Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/24/05
Posts: 229
TRs: 9 Photos: 18
Loc: Portland, Or
I was gonna take the day off to go skiing in the backcountry tomorrow is there anyway to help out?

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#616381 - 12/11/06 10:19 AM Re: 3 Lost on Mount Hood [Re: ivan]
lbeam Offline
n00b

Registered: 12/11/06
Posts: 38
TRs: 0 Photos: 1
Loc: Portland
Being stuck at home during all this, I spend most of my time speculating what happend to that climbing group and what's currently going on up there now. I am worried about avalanche conditions (there is more snow to come on top of a nice layer of ice) and very poor visibility. Weather is only expected to get worse.

It sucks knowing that there is someone alive up there who needs help, yet weather isn't cooperating to allow searchers to get to that person very easily. Also, they need to find the other two climbers that left to go get help. AHH. How frusterating!

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#616386 - 12/11/06 10:23 AM Re: 3 Lost on Mount Hood [Re: lbeam]
lbeam Offline
n00b

Registered: 12/11/06
Posts: 38
TRs: 0 Photos: 1
Loc: Portland

Last I heard, the guy in the snowcave was around 11,000ft. In addition to searchers on the Northside, there is a group heading up from the Southside of Hood to try to reach him.


Edited by lbeam (12/11/06 10:29 AM)

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#616396 - 12/11/06 10:31 AM Re: 3 Lost on Mount Hood [Re: lbeam]
DonnV Offline
member

Registered: 04/30/01
Posts: 128
TRs: 11 Photos: 245
Loc: Vancouver WA
I'm not sure this is at all helpful at this point, but I did talk to these guys early afternoon on Thursday at the TJ cabin and I got the distinct impression they were heading for one of the standard North Face lines, and not Cooper Spur or Eliot Headwall. Four of us had been climbing ice flows on the left side of the Eliot that day and I stopped at the cabin to get an empty water bottle I had left on the way up. They asked for any info on how to get down onto the Eliot since they would be doing it in the dark, asked how safe I thought it was traveling on the glacier, and wanted a guess on how long it would take them to reach the schrund at the base of the NF gullies. They never really said exactly what line they were climbing, but they asked for any beta on the routes. I told them what I could about the right gully, the only line I've done. They were completely unfazed at the possibility of some WI3 and lots of 45-50 degree mileage. I had the impression the route was well within their abilities. I knew they would be carrying over, but didn't get a chance to see how they were equipped for camping.

They seemed like great guys. Offered to fill my water bottle and offered all of us cocoa. Had the cabin fired up and warm and seemed very enthused about their climb. I wished them luck and told them I hoped the weather held for them. The last weather report I'd seen on Wednesday eve made it look like Thursday was the last decent day for some time. I am really hoping to hear good news sometime soon.

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#616402 - 12/11/06 10:36 AM Re: 3 Lost on Mount Hood [Re: DonnV]
gslater Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 09/18/02
Posts: 327
TRs: 0 Photos: 2
Loc: Idaho's Portugal
Looked at fuggedaboudit's profile and old posts, and saw that he was the guy who posted a TR about doing Lib. Ridge back in June of this year. So he probably has some skills.

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#616414 - 12/11/06 10:46 AM Re: 3 Lost on Mount Hood [Re: gslater]
Macson Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 01/12/04
Posts: 271
TRs: 0 Photos: 3
Loc: Olympic Peninsula
DonnV,

If you talked to them after they wrote their note for the rangers, you should probably call the ranger station and let them know about your conversation. Seems like those kind of details might aid the search.

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