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#1081850 - 09/13/12 11:21 AM [TR] Exfoliation Dome - Snake Charmer 5.11- 9/6/2012
AlpineDave Offline
old hand

Registered: 10/07/02
Posts: 896
TRs: 4 Photos: 3
Trip: Exfoliation Dome - Snake Charmer 5.11-

Date: 9/6/2012

Trip Report:
Last week a group of friends and I finished up a new route on the witch doctor side of Exfoliation Dome: Snake Charmer 5.11- III 6p (9,10-,10,11-,10,10).  Topo here

The climb follows flakes and cracks that wind a fairly strait and sustained route up the far left hand side of the main wall. An easy approach will get you to the base in less than an hour and a half. 

Ralph an I had attempted this route ground up 6 years ago, but were turned back by excessive moss and dirt after a couple pitches. It laid dormant in the back of my mind until this summer when Elliot suggested we take another look. The recon showed that it was sufficiently rad to warrant a return to polish the line. Big thanks to Ralph, Elliot, Fitz, Austin, and Zac for all your hard work and keen visions.  

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#1081851 - 09/13/12 11:40 AM Re: [TR] Exfoliation Dome - Snake Charmer 5.11- 9/6/2012 [Re: AlpineDave]
mountainmatt Offline
old hand

Registered: 02/05/06
Posts: 1124
TRs: 26 Photos: 259
Loc: Bwoooston
Sweet! Way to finish up the long standing project! brew

Any action shots of the route?
_________________________
Good judgment comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgment.

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#1081853 - 09/13/12 11:53 AM Re: [TR] Exfoliation Dome - Snake Charmer 5.11- 9/6/2012 [Re: AlpineDave]
zeedub Offline
stranger

Registered: 07/20/10
Posts: 13
TRs: 4 Photos: 37
Here are few photos of SnakeCharmer.

Overview from base and top:


Pitch One (5.9):


Pitch Three (5.10):



Pitch Four (5.11-):




Pitch 6 (5.10):

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#1081858 - 09/13/12 12:39 PM Re: [TR] Exfoliation Dome - Snake Charmer 5.11- 9/6/2012 [Re: AlpineDave]
Tyson.g Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/07/10
Posts: 964
TRs: 7 Photos: 132
Loc: Bellingham
Awesome!
Glad to see some folks hitting up that side!
Super Cool!
_________________________

Please note I am posting this as a joke.


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#1081866 - 09/13/12 01:49 PM Re: [TR] Exfoliation Dome - Snake Charmer 5.11- 9/6/2012 [Re: AlpineDave]
dberdinka Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 11/29/00
Posts: 2064
TRs: 39 Photos: 566
Loc: Bellingham
That looks amazing!
_________________________
You will do foolish things, but do them with enthusiasm!

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#1081869 - 09/13/12 02:19 PM Re: [TR] Exfoliation Dome - Snake Charmer 5.11- 9/6/2012 [Re: AlpineDave]
OlympicMtnBoy Offline
Marilyn Monroe

Registered: 09/23/03
Posts: 1136
TRs: 38 Photos: 73
Loc: Georgetown (Seattle)
Cool, that looks like fun! Gonna have to get up there.

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#1081870 - 09/13/12 02:23 PM Re: [TR] Exfoliation Dome - Snake Charmer 5.11- 9/6/2012 [Re: OlympicMtnBoy]
tvashtarkatena Offline
Sick Spray Bird

Registered: 09/25/06
Posts: 19048
TRs: 98 Photos: 14
Loc: ked Down
Looks very cool.
_________________________
All things to all people, all the time.

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#1081878 - 09/13/12 03:12 PM Re: [TR] Exfoliation Dome - Snake Charmer 5.11- 9/6/2012 [Re: tvashtarkatena]
DavidW Offline
member

Registered: 03/28/02
Posts: 144
TRs: 3 Photos: 47
Loc: Seattle, WA
Wow! I knew that line was gonna get grabbed someday. Nice job!

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#1081880 - 09/13/12 03:32 PM Re: [TR] Exfoliation Dome - Snake Charmer 5.11- 9/6/2012 [Re: DavidW]
fgw Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 10/15/04
Posts: 549
TRs: 19 Photos: 90
Loc: Portland, OR
Great looking pitches in there. That 1st pitch crack/flake and the 11- section look beautiful.

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#1081885 - 09/13/12 04:29 PM Re: [TR] Exfoliation Dome - Snake Charmer 5.11- 9/6/2012 [Re: fgw]
Riley81 Offline
member

Registered: 06/25/07
Posts: 188
TRs: 14 Photos: 519
Loc: Seattle, WA
Sweet looking route. I love the topo photo overlay.
_________________________
"Pound a pin save some skin" TA

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#1081894 - 09/13/12 05:37 PM Re: [TR] Exfoliation Dome - Snake Charmer 5.11- 9/6/2012 [Re: Riley81]
hanman Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 12/11/02
Posts: 348
TRs: 25 Photos: 266
Loc: Arlington
That's a great looking line I've stared at many times. Well done!! So cool that Exfo's getting some new lines and ongoing interest.

MH

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#1081972 - 09/14/12 09:30 AM Re: [TR] Exfoliation Dome - Snake Charmer 5.11- 9/6/2012 [Re: AlpineDave]
ryanl Offline
member

Registered: 05/31/05
Posts: 173
TRs: 19 Photos: 424
Loc: shoreline
I don't know which looks better, the route or the topo. Thanks for putting this together! I'll look forward to checking it out

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#1082026 - 09/14/12 03:01 PM Re: [TR] Exfoliation Dome - Snake Charmer 5.11- 9/6/2012 [Re: AlpineDave]
lunger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/18/02
Posts: 358
TRs: 11 Photos: 131
Loc: see atoll
yeah dudes, nice line! thx for all the documentation (hope it drives traffic!) and the addition to my to-do list.

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#1082027 - 09/14/12 03:03 PM Re: [TR] Exfoliation Dome - Snake Charmer 5.11- 9/6/2012 [Re: AlpineDave]
Wallstein Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 01/31/01
Posts: 439
TRs: 11 Photos: 79
Loc: Somewhere between here and the...
Way to go guys! Looks great.
_________________________
http://mikeylikesrocks.com/

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#1082042 - 09/14/12 04:42 PM Re: [TR] Exfoliation Dome - Snake Charmer 5.11- 9/6/2012 [Re: Wallstein]
Sol Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/24/03
Posts: 1617
TRs: 28 Photos: 397
Loc: leavenworth
oh wow, that looks fun!

nice work gentlemen.

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#1082082 - 09/15/12 06:13 AM Re: [TR] Exfoliation Dome - Snake Charmer 5.11- 9/6/2012 [Re: AlpineDave]
mountainsloth Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/03/07
Posts: 736
TRs: 25 Photos: 568
Loc: Seatte, WA
looks superb!

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#1082109 - 09/15/12 04:06 PM Re: [TR] Exfoliation Dome - Snake Charmer 5.11- 9/6/2012 [Re: AlpineDave]
shapp Offline
old hand

Registered: 06/12/03
Posts: 1049
TRs: 14 Photos: 431
Loc: finally back to OR
Who said Darrington is all slab!
_________________________
shapp

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#1082422 - 09/18/12 10:57 AM Re: [TR] Exfoliation Dome - Snake Charmer 5.11- 9/6/2012 [Re: AlpineDave]
AlpineDave Offline
old hand

Registered: 10/07/02
Posts: 896
TRs: 4 Photos: 3
FYI: a team went up recently and reported that a significant rockfall occurred to the left of the route in the past week. Be aware that there could be rock dust and small debris that ricocheted over on the first couple pitches. Given the location of the rock fall I doubt (though could be totally wrong as I have not been there to see it yet) that any bolts were effected, though the final rappel-only ones may have been. You can easily skip this station by rapping back to the top of the first pitch anchor if need be. 

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#1083129 - 09/21/12 05:46 PM Re: [TR] Exfoliation Dome - Snake Charmer 5.11- 9/6/2012 [Re: AlpineDave]
jpark42 Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 10/03/03
Posts: 235
TRs: 10 Photos: 78
Loc: Seattle, WA
Here's a picture of the offending rock fall(big white scare in the center left). If anyone heads up there in the next couple of weeks. I left some gear on the first pitch and would love to get it back. Otherwise, I'll be heading out there with a friend on the 30th to access the damage (if any) and hopefully finish the route.



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#1083311 - 09/24/12 06:03 AM Re: [TR] Exfoliation Dome - Snake Charmer 5.11- 9/6/2012 [Re: AlpineDave]
rat Offline
addicted to cc.com

Registered: 05/20/01
Posts: 570
TRs: 12 Photos: 11
the route has some good climbing but i would recommend jumping on it soon. the route still harbors some semi-loose blocks and dirt/lichen. without traffic, the witch doctor will quickly reclaim it.

the fresh rock scar is a shortly left of the third pitch anchor. all the rap stations survived. i cleaned the offensive baubles near your rap gear. lunger has your gear and will contact you soon.

thanks for your efforts dave, et al.

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#1083369 - 09/24/12 03:47 PM Re: [TR] Exfoliation Dome - Snake Charmer 5.11- 9/6/2012 [Re: AlpineDave]
lunger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/18/02
Posts: 358
TRs: 11 Photos: 131
Loc: see atoll
posted a TR on our climb yesterday. very cool route fellas!

jpark42, please PM me to retrieve your gear.

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