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      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   12/08/21

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TimL

3 Top Routes?

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CA= California

Red Dihedral = IV 10c on th Incredible Hulk

Mithral Dihedral=III 10a on Mt. Russell

Towering Inferno= 4 pitch 11a sporto in ORG

 

Takers to join me in June?

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Trad

some stuff at squamish i guess - i still have never been on Apron Strings, Split Pillar or Crescent Crack, better do those or they will revoke my squamish local status.

 

:mouth wide open gaping icon here:

 

I've got 2 out of three on you there dru! Course I didn't lead 'em. frown.gif

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Ice

Polar Circus

Dribbles

Mummy

 

Alpine

Shuksan Price glacier

Rainier Mowich Face ( Not sure what line)

B/C on South Howser in the bugs

 

Crags

Godzilla

Diedria

Angels Crest (if I find a rope gun)

 

Ski

Emmons on Rainier

North Face Of Shuksan

Forbidin Tour

 

BigWall

Do my First Big wall on washington Collum

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Dane - I've looked at Stevens Pass Hotel before it looks really good and although I've not been on it looks really hard and ran out at the top. I'd like to do it next fall. Also, try Lazy Boy and Radio Sex on 8 Mile Rock. 2 very good routes.

 

Cave & Rocket - I've been wanting to do Mary Jane Dihedral for a long time. Looks like fun.

 

Ahhhh - The Serenity Crack thru Sons combo. Killer all time favorite. The 100 ft 5.9 handcrack towards the top is amazing. I think the super topo says to bring like 2 or 3 2 inch pieces. I remember my partner dropping two of three 2 inch pieces right before that pitch and it was my lead. And if I remember correctly ehmic and Matt found 1 at the base and returned it to us latter that evening. bigdrink.gif

 

 

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My 02 cents:

Ice:

1. Climb something with a name and a grade.

2. Improve.

3. Gain enough confidence to lead easy stuff.

 

Rock:

1. Lead 5.11 trad.

2. Finally do Chain Reaction

3. Do a long classic in the mtns. Stuart N. Ridge comes to mind.

 

Alpine:

1. Baker N. Ridge

2. Jefferson Park Glacier, Mt. Jefferson

3. Girth Pillar (Kidding! Not this year. Sometime in the future).

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- Bear Creek Spire - CA

- Early Morning Spire

- Pickets (Inspiration, Terror)

 

Cavey -- Sun Ribbon is great. Wish I would have taken my camera on that. Long as hell for a grade IV. Thought the total climbing was about the same as Slesse. Take crampons or axe for approach gully. Ran out of daylight in June and bivied on descent.

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Lead Triad:

Cat Crack

Up From the Bog - I've heard it's sweet

Pixie Corner

 

Sprot:

Choad Huffer

Oscar Myer Whistle

Golly, this is a real donnybrook

 

Alpine:

Solo "Deprivation"

Golden Pillar of Spantik

Solo North Face Central Rib of Triumph next weekend.

 

And finally, How Can You Stand Reading This Crap on Mount Hugivzaphuck. That ones right here, in our own back yard.

 

Erik-Quit deleting my posts!! I'm trying to enrich the world with my wit, and you're ruining it for everyone!

 

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Why does it have to be raining... Reading all of these great climbs makes me want to take a few months off and enjoy.

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Ran out of daylight in June and bivied on descent.

 

Fucking lots of daylight in june eh!? I'd like to try it if I can get there. Otherwise some Bugaboos or Coast Range again. Either way I win grin.gif Damn that Coast Range is nice HCL.gif

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MARY JANE DIHEDRAL is closer to 5.10 with very thin face climbing and sustained. It ain't nothing like Orbit or Outer Space. Those two routes allow you to rest a bit and MJ doesn't. cool.gif

 

Another route on Snow Creek Wall that is pretty good is GALAXY. That's another route that I don't hear much traffic on. Galaxy provides just about everything you can imagine including a nice 40 foot flare chimney that you need to face the ski to climb .. good for vertigo. hellno3d.gif

 

hey how about REMORSE. I lead that back some time and the lead off the top of the pedestal goes a full 50 meters with only two manky bolts for pro. Its actually great face climbing on small knobs. I dont think I've heard of anyone doing Remorse. evils3d.gif

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Roger that. The Coast Range is soooo awesome. I hate it when I have to agree with Dru. smile.gif

 

What routes have you done up there? I have the summer off, and haven't made it up that way yet. Any reccomendations?

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talk to Dru for all the good routes. use his canuk bbs site (i forget the address) too. PM him and he'll give ya the straight poop.

rockband.gif

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The catagories:

 

Bouldering:

 

Need to do some! All the new areas and problems have me inspired.

 

Trad:

Mastadon Roof in the Icicle.

 

As far as Mary Jane goes, I remember it as being an ok route with a surprising amount of grubby rock esp near the top. Galaxy - Bring along lots of full length runners.

 

Freeway up at Squamish.

 

Sport:

 

Just something steep.

 

 

 

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Roger that. The Coast Range is soooo awesome. I hate it when I have to agree with Dru. smile.gif

 

The Coast Range is 1) a range of dinky hills in Oregon and California, 2) a range of choss infested blackfly nests in Alaska.

 

The Coast MOUNTAINS which extend from Fraser River to Skagway, Alaska, are pretty sweet though. laugh.giftongue.gif

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Alpine:

Mt. Redoubt to get a good look at southern BC. up close.

Mt. Constance to do something in the olympics this year.

Stuart's north ridge.

 

 

The kone-3 o'clock rock, back to finish it off.

outer space and canary

smith rocks-haven't been yet.

 

Bouldering:

sport sickness exit 38. worked on this many hours with no luck with nick frey.

 

 

 

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lee, to get into Redoubt you might have to go through some of BC but the mountain itself is in WA. wink.gif If only we had the time to do them all.

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Tex – I’ll belay you on ROTC (its soft for the grade, you should onsight it) if you’ll belay me on Supercrack.

 

I didn't think it was all that soft. It is never super technical but I thought it was a letter grade harder than Japanese Gardens. I think it's 5.11c to "on-sight". I've talked to some climbers who did it with "just one hang" and then poo-poo it. But to me, that's like benching 150 lbs twice and then saying you can press 300. I also know a guy who advertised his "on-sight" ascent, but when I questioned him about it, he admitted to placing the gear on rap first.

 

Anyway, I didn't flash it. I had to hang in the squeeze-slot (pumped, scared and unable to wiggled through with all of the clothing I had on, only three feet of 5.9+ from home!) I came back two years later and nailed it first try, this time with just a T-shirt. It felt even harder the second time.

 

It's a climb that technology probably makes easier. Without sticky rubber I'm sure it's a bear. I'd like to get on it again with my 3/4 Camalot Juniors. I think they'd take the bark out of the crux. Whether you agree that it's 11c, one thing is certain: it is outstanding, like a vertical/overhanging Givler's Crack in quality, but with tremendous exposure.

Edited by pope

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Ray, didn't pay much attention to that aspect on the approach . Going through customs would suck but I think any route up that Mt. would be worth it ehhh. It's gonna be a good year.

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Pope you're a stud.

 

1. Shooting Gallery on Mt. Andromida (as practice for Andromida Strain).

2. Anything else rad in the Canadian Rockies

3. N. Face Nooksak Tower

4. Central Pillar and Central Coliour on Joffre

5. Life on Earth on Habrich

6. Fun cragging with the homies fruit.gifbigdrink.gif

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on the subject of Maryjane dihedral: i have done the route several times and found that doing Carla's traverse after the crux pitch is much cleaner than going straight up. The traverse is quite fun and ends at the semi-hanging belay on orbit.

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