obsydian Posted January 25, 2003 Posted January 25, 2003 Goode Logan Bonanza All 3 are in the cascade classics list Quote
snoboy Posted January 25, 2003 Posted January 25, 2003 Trad some stuff at squamish i guess - i still have never been on Apron Strings, Split Pillar or Crescent Crack, better do those or they will revoke my squamish local status. :mouth wide open gaping icon here: I've got 2 out of three on you there dru! Course I didn't lead 'em. Quote
bigwalling Posted January 25, 2003 Posted January 25, 2003 Aid: 1. New Route on Chief 2. I Shot the Sheriff 3. Something hard on El Cap Quote
Fairweather Posted January 25, 2003 Posted January 25, 2003 Rainier-Central Mowich Face Stuart- North Ridge Olympus Traverse- From Queets Basin Quote
Skisports Posted January 25, 2003 Posted January 25, 2003 Ice Polar Circus Dribbles Mummy Alpine Shuksan Price glacier Rainier Mowich Face ( Not sure what line) B/C on South Howser in the bugs Crags Godzilla Diedria Angels Crest (if I find a rope gun) Ski Emmons on Rainier North Face Of Shuksan Forbidin Tour BigWall Do my First Big wall on washington Collum Quote
TimL Posted January 25, 2003 Author Posted January 25, 2003 Dane - I've looked at Stevens Pass Hotel before it looks really good and although I've not been on it looks really hard and ran out at the top. I'd like to do it next fall. Also, try Lazy Boy and Radio Sex on 8 Mile Rock. 2 very good routes. Cave & Rocket - I've been wanting to do Mary Jane Dihedral for a long time. Looks like fun. Ahhhh - The Serenity Crack thru Sons combo. Killer all time favorite. The 100 ft 5.9 handcrack towards the top is amazing. I think the super topo says to bring like 2 or 3 2 inch pieces. I remember my partner dropping two of three 2 inch pieces right before that pitch and it was my lead. And if I remember correctly ehmic and Matt found 1 at the base and returned it to us latter that evening. Quote
cracked Posted January 25, 2003 Posted January 25, 2003 My 02 cents: Ice: 1. Climb something with a name and a grade. 2. Improve. 3. Gain enough confidence to lead easy stuff. Rock: 1. Lead 5.11 trad. 2. Finally do Chain Reaction 3. Do a long classic in the mtns. Stuart N. Ridge comes to mind. Alpine: 1. Baker N. Ridge 2. Jefferson Park Glacier, Mt. Jefferson 3. Girth Pillar (Kidding! Not this year. Sometime in the future). Quote
robertm Posted January 25, 2003 Posted January 25, 2003 - Bear Creek Spire - CA - Early Morning Spire - Pickets (Inspiration, Terror) Cavey -- Sun Ribbon is great. Wish I would have taken my camera on that. Long as hell for a grade IV. Thought the total climbing was about the same as Slesse. Take crampons or axe for approach gully. Ran out of daylight in June and bivied on descent. Quote
Necronomicon Posted January 25, 2003 Posted January 25, 2003 Lead Triad: Cat Crack Up From the Bog - I've heard it's sweet Pixie Corner Sprot: Choad Huffer Oscar Myer Whistle Golly, this is a real donnybrook Alpine: Solo "Deprivation" Golden Pillar of Spantik Solo North Face Central Rib of Triumph next weekend. And finally, How Can You Stand Reading This Crap on Mount Hugivzaphuck. That ones right here, in our own back yard. Erik-Quit deleting my posts!! I'm trying to enrich the world with my wit, and you're ruining it for everyone! Quote
rr666 Posted January 26, 2003 Posted January 26, 2003 Why does it have to be raining... Reading all of these great climbs makes me want to take a few months off and enjoy. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 26, 2003 Posted January 26, 2003 Ran out of daylight in June and bivied on descent. Fucking lots of daylight in june eh!? I'd like to try it if I can get there. Otherwise some Bugaboos or Coast Range again. Either way I win Damn that Coast Range is nice Quote
allthumbs Posted January 26, 2003 Posted January 26, 2003 Roger that. The Coast Range is soooo awesome. I hate it when I have to agree with Dru. Quote
Rocket_Man Posted January 26, 2003 Posted January 26, 2003 MARY JANE DIHEDRAL is closer to 5.10 with very thin face climbing and sustained. It ain't nothing like Orbit or Outer Space. Those two routes allow you to rest a bit and MJ doesn't. Another route on Snow Creek Wall that is pretty good is GALAXY. That's another route that I don't hear much traffic on. Galaxy provides just about everything you can imagine including a nice 40 foot flare chimney that you need to face the ski to climb .. good for vertigo. hey how about REMORSE. I lead that back some time and the lead off the top of the pedestal goes a full 50 meters with only two manky bolts for pro. Its actually great face climbing on small knobs. I dont think I've heard of anyone doing Remorse. Quote
Necronomicon Posted January 26, 2003 Posted January 26, 2003 Roger that. The Coast Range is soooo awesome. I hate it when I have to agree with Dru. What routes have you done up there? I have the summer off, and haven't made it up that way yet. Any reccomendations? Quote
allthumbs Posted January 26, 2003 Posted January 26, 2003 talk to Dru for all the good routes. use his canuk bbs site (i forget the address) too. PM him and he'll give ya the straight poop. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted January 26, 2003 Posted January 26, 2003 The catagories: Bouldering: Need to do some! All the new areas and problems have me inspired. Trad: Mastadon Roof in the Icicle. As far as Mary Jane goes, I remember it as being an ok route with a surprising amount of grubby rock esp near the top. Galaxy - Bring along lots of full length runners. Freeway up at Squamish. Sport: Just something steep. Quote
Dru Posted January 27, 2003 Posted January 27, 2003 Roger that. The Coast Range is soooo awesome. I hate it when I have to agree with Dru. The Coast Range is 1) a range of dinky hills in Oregon and California, 2) a range of choss infested blackfly nests in Alaska. The Coast MOUNTAINS which extend from Fraser River to Skagway, Alaska, are pretty sweet though. Quote
leejams Posted January 27, 2003 Posted January 27, 2003 Alpine: Mt. Redoubt to get a good look at southern BC. up close. Mt. Constance to do something in the olympics this year. Stuart's north ridge. The kone-3 o'clock rock, back to finish it off. outer space and canary smith rocks-haven't been yet. Bouldering: sport sickness exit 38. worked on this many hours with no luck with nick frey. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 27, 2003 Posted January 27, 2003 lee, to get into Redoubt you might have to go through some of BC but the mountain itself is in WA. If only we had the time to do them all. Quote
pope Posted January 27, 2003 Posted January 27, 2003 (edited) Tex – I’ll belay you on ROTC (its soft for the grade, you should onsight it) if you’ll belay me on Supercrack. I didn't think it was all that soft. It is never super technical but I thought it was a letter grade harder than Japanese Gardens. I think it's 5.11c to "on-sight". I've talked to some climbers who did it with "just one hang" and then poo-poo it. But to me, that's like benching 150 lbs twice and then saying you can press 300. I also know a guy who advertised his "on-sight" ascent, but when I questioned him about it, he admitted to placing the gear on rap first. Anyway, I didn't flash it. I had to hang in the squeeze-slot (pumped, scared and unable to wiggled through with all of the clothing I had on, only three feet of 5.9+ from home!) I came back two years later and nailed it first try, this time with just a T-shirt. It felt even harder the second time. It's a climb that technology probably makes easier. Without sticky rubber I'm sure it's a bear. I'd like to get on it again with my 3/4 Camalot Juniors. I think they'd take the bark out of the crux. Whether you agree that it's 11c, one thing is certain: it is outstanding, like a vertical/overhanging Givler's Crack in quality, but with tremendous exposure. Edited January 27, 2003 by pope Quote
leejams Posted January 27, 2003 Posted January 27, 2003 Ray, didn't pay much attention to that aspect on the approach . Going through customs would suck but I think any route up that Mt. would be worth it ehhh. It's gonna be a good year. Quote
specialed Posted January 28, 2003 Posted January 28, 2003 Pope you're a stud. 1. Shooting Gallery on Mt. Andromida (as practice for Andromida Strain). 2. Anything else rad in the Canadian Rockies 3. N. Face Nooksak Tower 4. Central Pillar and Central Coliour on Joffre 5. Life on Earth on Habrich 6. Fun cragging with the homies Quote
j_b Posted January 28, 2003 Posted January 28, 2003 on the subject of Maryjane dihedral: i have done the route several times and found that doing Carla's traverse after the crux pitch is much cleaner than going straight up. The traverse is quite fun and ends at the semi-hanging belay on orbit. Quote
Bronco Posted January 28, 2003 Posted January 28, 2003 (edited) 1. Saber (yep, heard it's fun) 2. Gib Ledges (obligitory anual slog) 3. N. Ridge of N. Peak of Index (in summer you phsycos) 4. More Cascade Pass climbs (maybe scamper up Jberg) Edited January 28, 2003 by Bronco Quote
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