Blake Posted October 22, 2015 Posted October 22, 2015 I was recently talking with a friend about pitches that might not be sandbagged or even truly hard for the grade, but are particularly tough onsights, or good pitches to sandbag a visiting climber or win a bet when when you stick a 5.12 climber on a 5.11- and promise them free dinner if they send first go. Here were a few we thought of, but I'd love to know what other pitches come to mind: Eldo - Fire and Ice 5.11d - This one's bolted but still shuts down a ton of strong folks. Squamish - Daily Planet .12a (pretty much comes down to 1 inobvious boulder problem, but not another layback treadmill) Index - Newest Industry .11a - almost all bolted, not steep, and not pumpy. Still not easy. Vantage - Stemmin Ms - slick and weird Little Si - Propaganda - techery on a wall of power endurance Quote
telemarker Posted October 22, 2015 Posted October 22, 2015 Leavenworth: Psychopath pitch of iconoclast. Hangdog and Das Muzac Castle Rock? Quote
keenwesh Posted October 22, 2015 Posted October 22, 2015 Speaking of a different Castle Rock, the 11c boulder problem start to Country Club Crack in Boulder Canyon gives a lot of people trouble. I just reached through the crux moves and then greased out of the glassy 11a jams up above because I actually suck at climbing. I managed to not onsight The Wisdom in Eldo while getting move by move beta sprayed at me. Quote
Sol Posted October 23, 2015 Posted October 23, 2015 L-Town: Zweibles, Rainshadow, Shriek of the Mutilated. Index: Fifth Force (CLICK) , Bat Skins, Spooner, Natural Log Cabin, P4 Japanese Gardens. Quote
Rad Posted October 23, 2015 Posted October 23, 2015 Hidden Dragon at Shangri La Far Side Exit 38. Devious 30m 11c w multiple cruxes. Quote
Rad Posted October 23, 2015 Posted October 23, 2015 Biographie/Realization. At least Ondra couldn't do it. Quote
shapp Posted October 23, 2015 Posted October 23, 2015 (edited) not that hard, but tricky or pumpy for the grade (5.10 to 5.11a) New Testament at Smith (last little bit to the anchors) Other Side of the Tracks 3rd Pitch, Spring Mt. WA Hospital Corner, Spring Mt. Oregon Arthritis, Spring Mt. Oregon That pitch on Dreamer that you have to get around to the left of a big roof, Green Giant Buttress, WA the off-width pitch on Trophy Wife, Spring Mt, WA The steep handcrack pitch on Rattle Tail, Index, WA Edited October 24, 2015 by shapp Quote
Otto Posted October 23, 2015 Posted October 23, 2015 Great thread. And good thinking shapp - there needs to be a similar thread two number grades lower! Substitute .10 for .12 in the original post, ha! Now I'm included! I like your list, shapp. I would add, Revolver, pitch 5, .10a, three o'clock rock Oso Rodeo, pitch 7, .10a (the Black Overhang), squire creek wall Quote
bwwakaranai Posted October 26, 2015 Posted October 26, 2015 (edited) I'll second the Hidden Dragon Rad.....perfect name. And add Xin-11c 7 Mile Missing Lynx- 11c 7 Mile Outsourced- 12a 7 Mile The Idiot Box- 11d 7 Mile Unemployment Line- 11d 7 Mile Scrub Tech- 11c 7 Mile Purdy Mouth- 11a Coal Crag Cahullawssee- 11b Coal Crag Right Wing- 10d Squamish Pratts Crack- 5.9+++++++ Pine Creek CA And for some damn reason.....last pitch of Heaven's Gate fools me every damn time!!!! None of the 7 Mile routes are sandbagged but will fool most people the first time around, which makes for a rewarding onsight if you do get it. Cool thread! Edited October 26, 2015 by bwwakaranai Quote
mthorman Posted October 26, 2015 Posted October 26, 2015 Cool thread! I'll add.. Titties & Beer - 5.8 at Looking Glass, NC (even the guidebook calls it "World's Hardest 5.8") Quote
shapp Posted October 26, 2015 Posted October 26, 2015 (edited) Straight Shooter at Red Rocks. 5.9? Old Dirty Bastard getting sandbagged by Shap And the Midgit trying to get passed that bolt on Other side of the Tracks! Edited October 26, 2015 by shapp Quote
Eric T Posted October 29, 2015 Posted October 29, 2015 I climbed with a Mountain Guide from Iceland the last few days. He boulders hard and sport climbs 5.12. He just bought a new rack of singles and was stoked to try some trad. So after I watched him onsight sonic youth 5.11 b/c bolts. I took him over to strait shooter, 5.9 and let him take a few runs. It consistently spat him out. hehe Quote
Off_White Posted October 30, 2015 Posted October 30, 2015 Most everything at the quarry in Tenino is a hard onsight. We had a feller come for his first day and get on Hercules, the 10b warm up. When Doug offered him beta, he spat back, "I climb 5.11 at Smith, I don't think I need any of your beta." About six falls later he lowered to the ground, pulled his rope, walked away without a word, and was never seen again. I don't think anything harder than about 11b here has seen an onsight, though Jens K may have gotten one of the llc's. We're out of the way but have had a smattering of real talent come through. It may well be that everything is just sandbagged, largely due to familiarity rather than malign intent. My friend Peter was heard to mutter (on a different route" "10b my ass." When I said it wasn't any harder than 10b if my made every move right, he retorted, "Off, NO ONE rates routes that way anymore." Anyhow, if you're looking for challenging onsights, I've got about 40 of 'em in my front yard. Quote
eric8 Posted November 3, 2015 Posted November 3, 2015 100% agree with Newest Industries Most of the right side of the country is hard to onsight. Phone Calls from the Dead absolutely flailed on the onsight. Pulled the rope and hiked it... Chimp Dip at Squamish was consistently onsighting that grade at squamish when I tried it. Massive flail session on the start Quote
Alex Posted November 3, 2015 Posted November 3, 2015 I didn't think Psychopath was that bad, but I didn't onsight it either, seconding. My buddy who led it onsighted it. Pressure Chamber pitch should be on this list! Quote
eric8 Posted November 3, 2015 Posted November 3, 2015 Agreed, the pressure chamber is a harder onsight and it is a letter grade easier. Also, Sloe Children, how many 10+/11- climbers onsight that one? Quote
marc_leclerc Posted November 3, 2015 Posted November 3, 2015 I'd have to disagree about the Daily Planet in Squamish. That is a typical first 12a on sight for a lot of people. Easier than the 11c pitches on Astroman I'd say. But 'Boogie Till You Puke' is a hard onsight. Lots of inobvious 180' spins off of chicken wings to get around awkward bulges and constrictions. It spat me out few times on my first go which is not normal for me on 5.10c! The Stern Farmer in index really strikes me as a nails onsight. It boggled my mind on the onsight attempt, then felt effortless once I knew how to enter the flare. Quote
bwwakaranai Posted November 3, 2015 Posted November 3, 2015 Psychopath and pressure chamber I onsighted not as bad as Rightwing at Squamish which is graded easier than those 2. Shredded me both times I tried it on that Fillabuster pitch....awesome climb though Quote
stamati Posted February 17, 2016 Posted February 17, 2016 Dreamin' in Smith. The moves really aren't that hard but I'll be darned if I didn't clam up at the top of that first runout. Also the final crux roof pull is inobvious and involves a blind reach. Pretty fun route when your mind is at ease but at least for me that is a challenge. Quote
selkirk Posted February 18, 2016 Posted February 18, 2016 Smith Rock, Calamity Jam at 5.10c. I've got a standing off of a 6 pack for anyone who can onsite it, and are mere mortals for whom 5.10c isn't just a warmup Great well protected pitch and had my first falls on gear figuring out that arch! Quote
DPS Posted February 18, 2016 Posted February 18, 2016 Smith Rock, Just Do It, 5.14c. Couldn't even pull the first move. Quote
genepires Posted February 25, 2016 Posted February 25, 2016 Smith Rock, Just Do It, 5.14c. Couldn't even pull the first move. I tried to put my harness on for this route and stumble / fell over. so much for that. Quote
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