layton Posted January 16, 2003 Share Posted January 16, 2003 As many of you know by now, I've quit climbing for my new sport of choice...Drainaging! I haven't worked out a scale yet, but here are some of the criteria for a kick-ass drainage! 1.Steep as possible 2.As far from the road as possible 3.MUST be on an extremely forested hillside...otherwise see talus-groveling 4.Gullies w/ice are not concidered drainaging...see avy-doging 5.The more wet,mossy,waterfalling, cliffed out sections the better 6.Mung Mung Mung! The more the better 7.The choice routes are overgrown w/slide alder and devils club. 8.Extra point go to swinging on roots, pulling on grass, grabbing dirt, and slipping on wet mossy rock. I'm going to Newhalem this weekend to get some FA's. I firmly believe these are the new future of climbing. I know they are WAY harder than any stupid climb, and the potential is outrageous! Anyone got any golf shoes, and kevlar I can borrow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted January 16, 2003 Share Posted January 16, 2003 BOTTLE OF TEQUILA SHOULD BE INCLUDED IN THE LIST OF REQUIRED GEAR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 16, 2003 Share Posted January 16, 2003 There is already a sport of creek bed and liquid waterfall climbing in Japan. They use those felt-soled boots like fishermen do for better grip on wet slimy rocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted January 16, 2003 Share Posted January 16, 2003 Let us know when you have finished rap-bolting your first proj'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crank_sloper Posted January 16, 2003 Share Posted January 16, 2003 I heard you got a rash from the fish flavured drainage out of Weeping Gash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregm Posted January 16, 2003 Share Posted January 16, 2003 everybody give sloper 5 stars and he'll get stuck that way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeclimb9 Posted January 17, 2003 Share Posted January 17, 2003 the japanese and british have climbing drainages for years (waterfalls and gullies, respectively). Follow your muse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted January 17, 2003 Share Posted January 17, 2003 When the snow melts off under 5,000 feet, heres a good one . -Hike to Elbow Lake, go to North end, a couple hundred yards before the ribbons that take you up to Lake Wiseman(East side Sisters range), is a sweet spot for Drainaging!!!!! Devils club, slide alder, wet mossy rock slabs, water trickling on your boots. Wet, muddy dirt clumps to dyno too. Bring an ice axe for the self arrest!. Had to do lots of swing-arounds on weeds and bushes too. Then your rewarded by a nice trail back to the car. I give it 3.5 stars. The story is last summer we wacked from around Pioneer Camp up to the long rocky ridge above Wiseman. Took the ribbons back from the east side of the lake and got off coarse a little too far south right below a small null and ended up in drainaging heaven! FUN!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whillans Posted January 17, 2003 Share Posted January 17, 2003 climb north gully of the chief and return down nn gully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted January 17, 2003 Share Posted January 17, 2003 Michael: I think you should submit an application to the D.E.A. (Darrington Enjoyment Association). We need guys like you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted January 17, 2003 Share Posted January 17, 2003 Does this count? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted January 17, 2003 Share Posted January 17, 2003 Tex, where's that photo taken? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sk Posted January 17, 2003 Share Posted January 17, 2003 Tex can NOT tell you that sorry pal... he is under a gag order Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted January 17, 2003 Share Posted January 17, 2003 A secret spot that rhymes with Tupac. It's located in the forest about half between my abode and the mega-lycra-sporto-heaven of central Oregon. It's developed as a totally a "no-bolt" haven. Not even anchors! I saw alot of good sport lines there but I have to respect the "finder's" wish that it remain as an untainted sort of wilderness climbing spot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted January 17, 2003 Share Posted January 17, 2003 Oh, no worries; DFA tries to avoid crags with a high moss-to-rock ratio. It just looks kinda like an undeveloped section at the Greensprings crag down by Ashland. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrueger Posted January 17, 2003 Share Posted January 17, 2003 And I haven't seen my wire brush since it became part of Tex's Oregon Trad Rack! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted January 17, 2003 Share Posted January 17, 2003 Back in the day we called it Drainageaneering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted January 17, 2003 Share Posted January 17, 2003 Yea, there are actually alot of mossed up crags in central and southern oregon with alot of untouched rock. I mean you can clean lines or even bolt them but besides the other 12 people who care about finding and climbing in such areas there's not much traffic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted January 17, 2003 Share Posted January 17, 2003 Hey, I'm a member of the two star crowd now! Yippee, lets see if I can piss anyone else off and go for the coveted "La Estrella Primero" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkrueger Posted January 17, 2003 Share Posted January 17, 2003 Yes, the drawbacks to keeping a crag secret. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted January 17, 2003 Share Posted January 17, 2003 you better be careful about that i pointed out that i had 2 stars and the next time i logged on down to 1. You could get more stlye points for that drainage if you did it when the moss is wet I believe. Or perhaps in the middle of a thunderstorm so the water cascades down on to you. (sort like spindrift) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Necronomicon Posted January 17, 2003 Share Posted January 17, 2003 In response to Poster: Lambone Subject: Re: Drainaging! Back in the day we called it Drainageaneering Drainageaneering is so old school, with your seige drainaging mentality. Modern neohypolightweight drainaging abandons the tools of the ancients, like climbing shovels and belay rakes, and seeks a purity of movement that can't be found in "drainaging" routes put up by our elders. I am not diminishing the efforts of past drainers. The Lower East gully of Lower Goat Mountain (VI D3.7e Mung 5-) comes to mind. Put up over the course of eleven days in the March of 1978, the wettest March in recorded human history, this route pushed the limits of the possible. Tain Hurlong, a member of the first ascent team, recounted this story: "We were dug in at Camp IX. I was stuffing bark and lichen into the chinks between the rotten logs we had hung our hammocks from, in an effort to mud-proof our camp for the final push, while Malcolm was squeezing moss for drinking water, when we heard a noise above us. We looked up to see a wall of mud and debris heading down the upper gully towards us. Malcolm was lucky enough to be close to our wheelbarrow, which he hid under for protection. I could only clutch my climbing trowel and wait. The mud swept through our camp like a mud-spawned mud demon made of mud and stuff, and it was muddy and had mud all over it, but for the love of JESUS CHRIST Our SAVIOR and SALVATION, PRAISE BE to HIM and HIS HOLINESS, praise JEEEEEZUS!!!!!!!!!!! , we were saved. With great efforts, we finished the mung. Afterwards, while the guy at the gas station was pressure washing slime mold from my butt crack, he asked Malcolm how our drain went. Malcolm replied 'It was like I was dead, and Death was having sex with me, and he was made out of mud.'" Compare this with "Let's Hug all the Posers, Cuz' We Like You" (LCVIII D4.5y New Wave Mung +/-19) in Costa Rica. Put up by Guisdain Thibknob and Phagmiche Hoppalong in the Fall of 2002, "Let's Hug" ascends from sea level to 15,000', and boasts 37 different types of tree frogs along the way. The first ascentionists redefined drainaging with this route, and busted open the door to the future. Wearing only Vans, Cool-lots, mesh tank tops, Star Trek badges, and sharing a bag of flour between them, they blasted the route in six hours, 16 minutes, and 46.3275 seconds. Amazing! Did they use a shovel on the "I've been reborn" pitch? No. Guisdain used his urine to bore a hole through the wall of mud and owl pellets, while Phagmiche shored it up with regurgitated flour. Did they resort to mungtons of the 153rd pitch, the dreaded "I am become Death, destroyer of worlds" pitch? NO! The 80m inverted wall of slime that confronted them was asended by alternately standing on each others shoulders until they could reach the top. This...is the future of drainaging. MEN against gulleys, human against mud and sticks and stuff. Strategy is beyond the techniques. Technique is beyond the tools. Tools are beyond. Beyond is here. Here is now. Now is now. One...five...twenty...twenty five million. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
North_by_Northwest Posted January 17, 2003 Share Posted January 17, 2003 Wasn't there an editorial in 'Climbing' that was just like this? It was mocking the Euros I believe. Still funny though, 'specially Nomi the Commies post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted January 17, 2003 Share Posted January 17, 2003 Thats the funnist shit I've read all day Necro! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave Posted January 17, 2003 Share Posted January 17, 2003 That is some serious shit! Did they fix lines and haul, or both carry packs-more alpine style? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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