Mt Stuart W Ridge - question about the route

[aikidjoe]

A friend of mine and I climbed Mt Stuart W Ridge this last weekend. It was our first time on the mountain and we had a lot of fun figuring out the route. Inevitably we got off the standard route once or twice.

 

We were aiming for the standard 5.4 dihedral near the end of the route, and I thought we found it, but if so, we both found it to be the damn hardest 5.4 we had ever done (We are both 5.10 sport climbers for reference). Suffice it to say, I am curious if we were on the right one. So...

 

Here's a photo of what we climbed up. Is that the standard 5.4 dihedral? If not, we're curious if anyone knows what it's rated? For reference, from the ledge I was belaying from, there was an old pin hammered in, hip height or so above the ledge.

[DPS]

The fixed pin sounds correct, but the photo doesn't look quite right. Here is a photo of my partner with the 'crux' dihedral up and climber's right, but is obscured. http://www.summitpost.org/crux-pitch/517392 FWIW, I've always called that pitch 5.6, but it is only a couple of moves before you can grab the top of the slab/rock.

[Alex]

That's the final pitch, yes. But the route I've taken is straight above the climbers head, not the thing to the left. It's like a single-move chimney thing, and you flop out onto a huge fat ledge not far from the summit block. It might not feel moderate with a pack & tired, on but by the time you are standing there, it doesn't much matter any more right?

 

[keenwesh]

I ended up climbing some dirty 5.7ish shit that was off route in that area when I did it. It all leads to the top so being exactly on route isn't really very critical, at least in my opinion.

[curtveld]

It all leads to the top so being exactly on route isn't really very critical, at least in my opinion.

Pretty much what we decided.

 

We encountered a steep dihedral that was pretty but too steep to be mid-fifth (not sure if the same as in your photo, but similar). So we kept traversing right and it got easy.

[genepires]

is much of the west ridge like this photo? looks real nice. Is this part past where the stuart glacier coulour connects in?

[DPS]

Gene,

 

I've done the WR by three different approaches; Stuart Glacier Couloir, West Ridge Notch Couloir (a couloir on the south side, just opposite of the Stuart Glacier Couloir), and the standard hike around Ingall's Lake and climb a series of gulleys to the West Ridge Notch. The climbing from the West Ridge Notch is the business end of the climb. 4-5 pitches of blocky, enjoyable low fifth class climbing. The 'approaches' to the WR Notch vary in their character, but none have the same character as the final bit. Every approach is enjoyable and really pretty nice climbing, just not the blocky fifth class climbing that the climb from the WR Notch characterizes.

[JasonG]

True, but the standard scramble up to the WR notch via solid 3rd and 4th class gullies is super enjoyable, and highly recommended. September is perfect with the cooler temps and color in the valley. Of course this means you descend the Cascadian in dry conditions, but it isn't too bad if you are heading down. Carry a bunch of water though, the route is quite dry that time of year.

[DPS]

Of course this means you descend the Cascadian in dry conditions, but it isn't too bad if you are heading down. Carry a bunch of water though, the route is quite dry that time of year.

 

FWIW, I climbed WR Sherpa last weekend. We approached via Long's Pass and up the ridge which divides Cascadian Couloir and the Couloir below Sherpa. We met two parties descending Stuart that way and it was WAY nicer than Cascadian Couloir, really pretty pleasant. There was a nice stream to grab water from too, although by September it may be dry.

Edited July 20, 2013 by DPS

[curtveld]

is much of the west ridge like this photo? looks real nice.

Lots of great info from the uber-veterans, but not sure anyone answered this one. Once you're through the 'cleanest gully in the Cascades', most of the climbing is traversing ledges with little bit of class 4 and 5 (bit more steep class 5 on the N-side bypass). Very little climbing as steep and clean as the pic, though the rock is always good.

[Alex]

gene, no, most of the climb is a hike even more laid back than the first half of e ridge of edith cavell. but its clean and one can motor pretty quick.

[Jim]

Short answer is no - I made the same mistake first time up that. That left crack is, I dunno, 8ish - 9ish, I remember it feeling odd. You can't see the standard finish from the position of the photo - you need to go up to the final headwall and then traverse around the corner right - and then it's duh! There it is!

[Rad]

I think I went up that dihedral years ago and yes, it felt much harder than 5.4, but it worked.

 

The "approach gully" of the WR is one of the best parts of the route. It's basically 3rd and 4th class soloing for a very long way on EXCELLENT granite. The winding around on the upper half of the route, including tunneling under the flake, is interesting but not very aesthetic.

 

Side question: does anyone have recent beta on Goat pass conditions?

 

Has anyone done Ulrich's that would recommend it for the descent? Thx

[bush-in-sky]

Having done both Ulrich's and CC, I wouldn't recommend Ulrich's. We ended up having to rap 3-4 times. Cascadian went much quicker, even if you are sliding in dirt half the time.

[Alpine_Tom]

What was the snow conditions on the descent like? Did you need/ want crampons or ice ax?

[kevbone]

What was the snow conditions on the descent like? Did you need/ want crampons or ice ax?

 

+1?????

[bush-in-sky]

I assume you're asking about Ulrich's.

 

We descended it by mistake in late August 2010 - I definitely would have wanted an ice axe and crampons, but I'm probably biased because I slipped and fell while descending a portion of steeper snow. It was late in the afternoon and the snow was soft on top but not soft enough to plunge step (especially in trail runners). I suspect if it had been sunny instead of cloudy and windy/snowing it would have been easier going. As it was I hurt my knee but narrowly avoided a much longer and less pleasant ride.

 

After the upper section with a few portions of steep snow we encountered a few short cliffed out sections that we couldn't find a scramble down, but were able to rap off of trees.

 

It probably didn't take that much longer than the cascadian, but it was certainly less straightforward. I think just having an ice axe would have been sufficient.

 

As for the Cascadian - I think there's more recent beta available, but I descended it 3 weeks ago when there was still enough snow to plunge step for ~1500 ft. Probably about melted out by now.

[kevbone]

I was just asking about the Cascadian and the small glacier that you encounter once you pass the north false summit. Thanks!

[kevino]

What was the snow conditions on the descent like? Did you need/ want crampons or ice ax?

Snow was soft on the descent by the afternoon. We avoided all the snow except for about 15 ft to connect two rock bands. You can traverse from the summit to false summit no problem.

[kevbone]

What was the snow conditions on the descent like? Did you need/ want crampons or ice ax?

Snow was soft on the descent by the afternoon. We avoided all the snow except for about 15 ft to connect two rock bands. You can traverse from the summit to false summit no problem.

 

What about right over the false summit. In the past there has been a small glacier even in aug. How is that shaping up? Thanks.

[kevino]

That is actually what I was referring to. One could easily descend that whole face on the snow or walk down one of the rock fingers, cross about 15-20 ft of snow and get back on another rock/dirt band. My partner and I just had tennis shoes, so we took the later option.

[dougd]

After climbing the W Ridge Thursday the 22Aug there's no snow to deal with on route or descent of Cascadian. There is a nice ice patch down off the East Ridge a short way if one wanted to take the time to chop some and melt some water or something, but easy to avoid climbing wise. No crampons or ice axe needed...

 

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