2012 / 13 Washington Ice Conditions

[Alex]

Hi All!

 

I don't have any super secret beta on ice climbing in WA right now - it looks to be too warm still just about everywhere - but thought I'd get the ball rolling by starting the official thread

[John Frieh]

Roj said he climbed some stuff including a new line near source lake about a week ago. I could ask him for the details if you want.

 

Anybody hike into Strobach yet?

[kevino]

Anybody hike into Strobach yet?

I was probably the only one dumb enough to hike in there early season for the last two years!

[genepires]

maybe wet rock if John's idea of a "good time". Me, I prefer hot cocoa at home during days like this.

[DRep]

Anybody hike into Strobach yet?

I was probably the only one dumb enough to hike in there early season for the last two years!

 

Kevin - "Hey Dave, I saw some stuff that's never been climbed

before at Strobach, lets check it out"

 

Me - OK!

Me when we arrive - "Hey Kevin, Isn't that the stuff in the

guidebook?"

Kevin - "Yup!"

 

Good times!

Edited December 4, 2012 by DRep

[John Frieh]

Anybody hike into Strobach yet?

I was probably the only one dumb enough to hike in there early season for the last two years!

 

It's good karma for future trips

[powderhound]

Anybody know the weather station link to the one that is up on Dome peak? I thought Rad posted it in an older strobach thread a year back or so....

[John Frieh]

Green lake snotel site at 6000'.

 

http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/mesowest/getobext.php?wfo=sew&sid=GRLW1&num=168&raw=0&dbn=m

 

Close to strobach but on the south side of the ridge.

 

kick, stab 'n scratch

[powderhound]

anyone go to strobach this weekend?

[JDCH]

So I'll throw it out there.

 

I made an assumption, which of course made an ass out of me...

 

That the very short spell of cold weather would produce some worthwhile ice in Leavenworth, specifically at the millennium walls. Even managed to convince my girlfriend and 2 other friends that it was "for sure in" We drove out, amidst the excitement in town for the Christmas tree lighting... and even ran into another pair at the trail head who had the same brilliant idea!

 

This filled me with even more confidence that I was right, and that I was headed straight for an early season ice victory!

 

3 hours of breaking trail through the sometimes 3 ft deep snow, yielded a big fat wet rock.

 

On the one hand, I guess it was good exercise, and the gear needed a good walk, on the other hand, I was VERY pleased that I brought my flask and a dooby...

 

So we ate lunch, enjoyed our libations, and turned around and trudged back.

 

Morals of the story:

1. The ice is not yet in at Millennium Wall

2. Always prepare with intoxicants for disappointment when seeking early season ice in Washington.

[Captain panther]

Pan dome is sorta in

[Eric K]

Pan dome is sorta in

 

Care to elaborate?

 

Eric

[kurthicks]

Skied under Death Picnic two days ago. No ice, but darn good skiing!

[genepires]

Pan dome is sorta in

 

Care to elaborate?

 

Eric

 

sorta in is standard operate condition for pan dome. usually there. in good condition rarely. But does get done usually when in "sorta" conditions. In other words, a fine top rope.

[ColinB]

As of this morning, this is how Strobach looks. We drove the road, but 14" of snow there tomorrow should close it off for the season. Give things a few weeks and they should be good to go.

Right side of the gully (Sad through Ice Dreams)

First on the Left and Unholy Baptism almost touching down

Better view of Unholy Baptism forming up

Responsible Ladies Man is almost there as well.

Primus Sucks (on the right) is forming but has some rock sticking through still

[DanielHarro]

Looks good thank for the update!

[Vernman23]

climbed Pandome yesterday. Was good to get out. Not good ice. Got one screw at the bottom and an ok 13cm at the top. Nothing much else. Over all was good to get out.

[DanO]

Hello,

Saw on Wa State Ice conditions web site that Alpental is in. Not sure what that means? I am interested in doing some lower level ice climbs around there this Sat. I have not been there as of yet so will have to figure it out. Any know if any of the lower level stuff around there will be available? 2 to 3 ice.

 

Thanks

Dan

 

 

[wayne]

Watch for avvy danger right now. There are a bunch of routes in A-tal. Some prolly are in, some not. Be careful exploring the back country right now!

[Alex]

Hello,

Saw on Wa State Ice conditions web site that Alpental is in. Not sure what that means? I am interested in doing some lower level ice climbs around there this Sat. I have not been there as of yet so will have to figure it out. Any know if any of the lower level stuff around there will be available? 2 to 3 ice.

 

Thanks

Dan

 

 

Interesting. I haven't updated the site for 2012-2013 so you are actually looking at last years conditions right now!

 

But no, Alpental stuff isn't in, it's been dumping snow but not particularly cold.

 

I'm kind of on the fence as to whether I should really do any conditions updates over there, as this format works so much better and requires no maintenance. I like how Gadd has done it too, I just don't have the energy to put in a UBB for just conditions as it would just be reinventing the wheel.

 

Those Strobach conditions look pretty good for mid-December! While I have climbed some things there first week of December some years, it's usually pretty thin. Unholy looks far better than in most years, while some of the stuff on the right side likes more anaemic than usual. With all the precip we've been receiving there should be good ice at Strobach in January...I might even do a trip! :0

[bryce398]

Skied past Denman yesterday, middle line WI3 looks in( I could only see first 2 pitches) left WI2 line mostly covered with snow. Sorry no pics. Lines referenced are from last years post by Spinion.

[DanO]

Hello,

I misread the Wa state ice conditions site. On the bright side I found the location of the climbs for next time when it is actually in. There is ice there, but not that much and a lot of snow cover. Not enough to climb, at least for me, pretty thin.

 

Thanks

Dan

[John Frieh]

Hey Dan: where were you? Strobach? If so how was the approach?

[DanO]

I have never tried to go to Strobach. Looks very interesting, wish I had a snowmobile. I am looking in the Washington Ice guidebook. It looks to me a person can get in there with skies in a "reasonable" amount of time if they are a hard man. The big advantage of skis is coming back out, going downhill. It can take as long as a mile an hour going uphill on skis or snowshoes in decent conditions. It looks like three miles uphill to the ice. To get down on skies can be 15--30 minutes to 45 minutes or so, downhill on snowshoes is around 2x faster than uphill. Snowshoes can be faster/better in woods, most often is, but skis better in more open areas. Yesterday the snow was soft,(at Alpental) even with snowshoes I was sinking up to 2 feet when off trail, breaking trail in that condition will exhaust you in a short time and you will get nowhere even with snowshoes, bring tail extensions if you have them. The larger snowshoes are better in soft conditions, mine are the normal sized older styled MSR's made of plastic.

 

The book has no GPS coordanents for the ice climbs in strobach, I find that very helpful at alpental.

 

It is a four hour drive for me to get there, if I lived nearby, like--with in a hour or so I would be all over the place.

 

Good luck let us you know what you find, if serious about climbing get a early start. It is likely better to spend a trip just to figure out the area, to go in light and even to solo hike on such a trip. Check the avalanche forecast and watch the avalanche conditions while hiking. As a general rule it is fairly safe in the trees, getting less safe when going out in the open. (I know your not a newbie, I just like writing)

 

Dan

Edited December 24, 2012 by DanO

[Farrgo]

Skis plus slowshoes is the best non-motorized approach method. Skis for the road and shoes for the 'shwack where skis are fairly hateful. They do groom the road for snowmobilers so it should only suck for the off-road section which isn't too long. I've been doing a fair amount of trail breaking lately and one should expect it to take about twice as long as normal due to deep snow. A three hour approach is pretty standard for the area even for the non-hardmen but can take a lot longer if you get lost.

 

Also, I have gps coordinates for the motherlode area that I'll put up when I'm with my gps next.