[TR] El Capitan - The Nose 5.9 C1 VI 10/07/2012

[Riley81]

Trip: El Capitan - The Nose 5.9 C1 grade VI

 

Date: 10/07/2012-10/10/2012

 

Trip Report:

When I first started aid climbing at Index my aspirations of big wall climbing laid much closer to home then the Valley. The views from the UTW in Index have always been all I need for inspiration. I did not take the “Road to the Nose”. If someone were to ask me why I climbed it, I might say that I was training for the North Norwegian Buttress. But after three nights on El Capitan I can now understand why it might be the Greatest Rock Climb in the World. Two things you never hear about the Nose is that if you climb it when other parties are on the route, which there almost always are, you will get pissed on, and there is no way you can bring enough 2-4” cams to climb it without back cleaning.

Everybody's got a little Captain in them.

 

I was not sure if my partner was going to be there for the trip. Our last communication put him in Qatar fed up with work and wanting to climb. It was short notice, but work was slow for me and we had already talked about an October trip to the valley. It was not said until about a week before the trip, but a big wall was on both our minds. I figured that if you’re going to climb the Captain you might as well climb it form the lowest point to the highest point. I arrived on Saturday and after an evening of sorting gear and trimming the excess weight we were packed for three nights, but hoped to get off in two. We started up on Sunday morning packed and ready to go.

 

DAY 1

 

Packed and ready to go.

 

A long ways to go.

 

Most parties fix three lines to Sickle Ledge the first day and haul the following morning, getting 4 pitches out of the way. When we arrived a party was in process of jugging and hauling, we just started climbing. We knew the hauling up to Sickle is reported as sucky, but it didn’t seem that bad. Unfortunately the traversing 4th pitch saw a poor quality lower out sending the pig spinning across the wall and destroying the bottom of my home made poop tube. It was fun hauling it up 27 more pitches empty. When we arrived at Sickle we looked up at the Stove legs and saw a party near Dolt tower and two parties just starting the legs. We kept moving figuring we could get to Dolt tower in a reasonable amount of time.

 

Looking up at the Stove legs.

 

Unfortunately A reasonable amount of time became 2 AM when we got to our bivy. The Stove legs seemed to extend upward infinitely, and our double set of cams did not generate a great desire to free climb some of the longer consistently sized cracks. Any thoughts of 5.10 free climbing went out the window very quickly, especially when a swing was involved and you couldn’t leave gear below the belay.

 

Sean leading up to Dolt hole after a swing.

 

A windy day with cold belays gave way to a windy night. I had to resist my desire to stop and set our porta ledge at the first bolted belay, of which there are many. After three pitches in the dark I began working up the last 5.10 OW to the tower in a dying wind I was happy to find an empty tower and no wind.

Working up the Stove legs in the dark.

 

Sean happy to be at a decent bivy for the night.

 

11 pitches the first day took a little longer then we had hoped and we both knew then that we would not be getting off the wall with only two bivies.

 

DAY 2

 

The second day of climbing started out with other parties ahead 3 pitches at El Cap tower and no one below. The second pitch of the day was a 5.9 OW that I got the pleasure of leading. I thought I could climb it but again 40+ feet of #4 camalots makes 5.9 much harder with only two #4 camalots. Near the end of the pitch where it begins to roll over I ended up in a 20 foot run out not sure if I could hold on, digging deep I finished the lead.

 

5.9 OW corner leading up to El Cap Tower.

 

Leading 5.9 OW up to El Cap Tower(TE)

 

This is also about where Tom Evans(TE)usually starts taking pictures of climbers. ElCapReport.com is a great blog for following action on the wall. And Tom is happy to supply pictures of everyone’s experience on El Cap, if he got pictures of you. Thanks Tom for the great pictures.

My next fun lead came in the form of the 5.8 chimney behind Texas flake. One bolt for about 60-feet of 5.8 chimney, I guess it’s not run out.

 

Texas flake Chimney.

 

Here we passed a party of 4 From Durango, CO bailing off New Dawn Wall. They had a pretty sweet set up with a leader, follower and two guys in jail suits on Hauling Duty, gotta keep your sense of humor on a wall. They lead up Texas flake behind us looking to finish on the Nose instead. Never saw them again after that and I think the next day they got the “Bail of the Day” award on ElCapReport for bailing on New Dawn Wall and the Nose back to back.

The top of Texas flake was probably my favorite belay. I was laying on the flake enjoying the views down valley while Sean lead up the Boot flake so I could get a little King Swing action.

 

Hanging out on Texas flake. (TE)

 

Texas Flake belay view.

 

 

Following Boot Flake (TE)

 

The King Swing was a highlight of the climb. After lowering down nearly 100 feet from the top of the boot you have to book it across the rock as fast as you can then claw and scrape your way to Eagle ledge, only to have to climb back up to the same level as the top of the Boot flake without leaving any gear until the last 10-15 feet, unless you want to make the lower out much more difficult for the second.

 

We followed a party of two most of the day and much of the conversation consisted of where we were going to stop for the night. As we approached Camp 4 night was falling and it was apparent that the party above was interested in the same camp, fortunately after expressing our interest in Camp 4 they decided Camp 5 was better for them and ended up climbing until about midnight. We only had to climb one pitch in the dark this day. That last pitch gained a much better bivy and we got ahead of a party of two coming up Triple Direct and moving quite slow. They accounted that they had only climbed 2 pitches the previous day due to hauling issues. We ended up fixing the first pitch off of Camp 4 for them.

 

That night at Camp 4 was my first night in a portaledge. Camp 4 is described as a poor bivy for two and that is the truth. A small sloping ledge could be a place to sleep, but fortunately there is a bolt for a portaledge just up from the bivy ledge. I later noticed that these bolts exist at many places along the route. Three at dolt tower that I didn’t notice when we arrived at night, and one at Camp 6 that made it a much nicer place to sleep.

 

DAY 3

 

Getting ready to pack up the ledge.

 

On the third day we were starting to get into a better grove. With a decent night’s sleep and a pitch of free climbing before the great roof we were heading out a little earlier than previous. I lead up past a little 5.9 move up to right below the great roof pitch. I past a nice looking two bolt belay with a three foot ledge at the urging of my partner and ended up with a bolt a slung horn and a small nut instead. But this is the belay on the topo, not that it has been particularly accurate up to this point.

 

Belay just below Great roof you can see the good ledge and the party of two girls below at Camp 4.

 

As I hauled the pitch and waited for my partner to clean I saw a helmet pop into view two pitches down. I thought it was the party of 4 from Durango moving up fairly fast and continued to haul. The next time I looked down I saw the still solo climber working the 5.11 pitch just below Camp 4 with no partner in view. About 10 feet below the belay the haul bag got stuck and I looked down and that same climber had passed Camp 4 and was quickly approaching my belay. It was then that I noticed his partner simul climbing along with him. As the leader climbed the 5.9 pitch I had just completed I think the only pro he clipped was the belay anchors and had next to no gear on him, NIAD party for sure. As he approached my belay I kindly asked him if could unstick my pig for me and he happily obliged, only to ask very nicely if he could clip in at my belay. I of course agreed and after a brief word he continued up the easier section of the great roof still simul climbing. His partner got to my belay after the leader was about 20 feet up, and put him only belay when the leader began aiding the more difficult section of the roof. During our short conversation I learned that they had started at 7:30 AM that morning, that the leader hated aid climbing, and proved it by taking a 25-foot whipper when a red C3 blew on him, and that 20 minutes to climb the Great roof is a time that deserves many apologies to your partner for moving so slowly. It took us about 1.5 hours and we were happy about it. It was pretty amazing to have these two guys pass. They completed the route in a “relaxed” time of 4:30 and were back to the valley floor in time for an early lunch.

 

Hanging out at the Great roof with NIAD guys. Turns out the follower is Sean Leary who had previously held the speed record set with Dean Potter. (TE)

 

The Great roof is an amazing aid pitch. A long thin corner leads to a stellar traverse on (as of right now) fixed gear. The speedy way to do it is not clip any of the fixed gear for pro and have your follower lower out from the first fixed piece which has a fancy leaver biner on it.

 

Sean staring up the long corner. (TE)

 

Working the fixed gear on the traverse.

 

Looks like Tom Evans likes to get pictures of people at the Great Roof because he had a great sequence of me lowering out at the fixed gear and climbing the next two pitches.

 

At the lower out point getting ready. (TE)

 

Finished the lower out, getting ready to jug. (TE)

 

The next pitch is Pancake Flake. Definitely a good lead when freed, but on the third day, and 20+ pitches from the ground, 5.10a becomes a little bit harder. I ended up with only a free moves to start the pitch and lots of high stepping made easy by good hand holds. It was an amazing pitch and I would love to come back and free it.

 

Starting up Pancake flake after a few initial free moves. (TE)

 

Getting as a high as possible aiding through the upper 5.11 section. (TE)

 

From here it is one more pitch to Camp 5, a rocky bulge with a few spaced out bivy spots and a few bolts for porta ledges. Sean lead this pitch, an awkward C1+ corner that looks much more enjoyable if you can climb 5.12.

 

Sean working the corner up to Camp 5 at the top of the picture.

 

Above Camp 5 is a little 5.7 up to two long pitches of aid known as the Glowering Spot. This was the only pitch I found good for cam hooking and used a good chunk of offset nuts that definitely made the pitch much tamer.

The Glowering Spot is actually the 3x3 ledge between these two long pitches and at sunset it becomes apparent why it has this name. The smooth glacial striations on the rock create a powerful reflection at sunset and make for an amazing contrast of light and texture.

 

Beautiful late evening views to the west form the Glowering Spot.

 

We finished the day at Camp 6 before night fall for the first time on the climb. This gave us time to settle in, eat some delicious warm soup and take in the insane exposure and position that this amazing ledge provides. “Keep Camp 6 Clean” This statement on the topos does not set in until you arrive at camp 6. I wondered why Camp 6 in particular must be kept clean. Are people abandoning food and water they don’t want to take to the top? This is not exactly the case. Camp 6 is a semi pedestal block of rock with a convieniently located crack between the pedestal and the main wall. And the best place to hang out is across this crack with your back against the wall and your feet on the pedestal which can lead to many unredeemable accidents. This is apparent by looking into, or smelling, the crack. It is filled with trash and dropped gear and creates occasional warm wafting smells of urination. I hear it smells much better in the spring. Needless to say we were much more cautious in our movements at this bivy. Fortunately a bolt for our portaledge was available placing the ledge over the infamous crack and blocking much of the noxious odor.

 

DAY 4

We went to sleep that night hearing parties below, we thought they were headed for Camp 5, but we were mistaken. We went to sleep around 9 or 10 PM only to be awakened to a huff and clank at around 1 AM. A climber popped up onto the ledge and clipped into our anchor. They were a party of three and were climbing the nose in one push, not a particularly fast push, but one push none the less. I hoped that they would move through quickly, but this was not to be. They finally left the belay at about 5:30 AM after 4.5 hours climbing a 150 foot aid pitch known as Changing Corners in the middle of the night. I was even awakened by a scream when the leader took a whipper somewhere above in the darkness. It was a fitful night of sleep in which I think I slept more then I recall. The party was inefficient for sure, but quiet none the less. We did not see them on the following day, so I think the sunlight perked up their pace. They probably finished in around 35-40 hours. Not quite as fast as the previous passing party.

 

I was glad to climb that first pitch off Camp 6 in the early light. It was the best aid pitch of the climb with good nuts, cam placements, and an interesting transfer from one corner to another via a bolt. The hanging belay at the end of the pitch was also an amazing position with some of the best vertical exposure yet.

 

Looking down Changing Corners pitch.

 

From here there are only 4 more pitches to the top, and a certain sense of urgency or excitement or remotivation, not sure what to call it sets in as the summit becomes more attainable. Views over the other sides of the valley begin to materialize and we were treated to an ariel show as two raven’s sircled close to the cliff swooping in the winds and almost showing off for us. It was an amazing sight as the birds swooped dangerously close to the wall in high winds. It seemed like fun to them to show how superior they were to us in this vertical environment.

 

Ravens ariel show swooping close to the wall.

 

Great view of Sentinel Rock.

 

After a few more pitches of mixed aid and free you approach the final bolt ladder and roof that caps the captain. My partner noted that this is the most serious bolt ladder he had ever done. And it definitely was no ordinary bolt ladder to follow. The exposure was mind numbing and my desire to use every backup technique I knew was increased greatly. Before I departed the belay there was a bit of concern for the pig passing the roof, expressed by way of my partner raising and lowering the haul line in hopes that I would leave a lower out line and control the pig over the roof. I knew this was not possible because our 60m rope did not have enough tail for me to keep it attached as I climbed and the pig went up 30-40 feet right of me. After watching the rope and yelling pointlessly into space the pig finally launched and cleared the roof with only one minor hitch.

 

Pig heading up before the last minor hitch.

 

Since our original poop tube broke we were using old water jugs to store poo. We filled a second at camp 6 and unfortunately I did not tie a sufficient knot to attach the bottle to the bottom of the pig. As the pig worked over the our poop bottle broke loose and began its spiraling decent. This is not how I intended to bring my feces back to the ground, but it was the way it was going. The bottle continued to spiral downward the 3000 feet and was out of view long before it hit the ground. Lesson learned is don’t hang around below El Cap in prime climbing season because some idiot is going to drop something.

 

I jugged the pitch and got on last shot before passing the final roof.

Looking down before the last roof on the final pitch.

 

After 3 ½ days in a harness and in the vertical world it was defiantly a good feeling to strip the harness off and set my feet on ground in which I did not have to be attached to some kind of protection. We enjoyed a celebratory smoke as the clouds continued to collect overhead, letting us know that we got of the Captain just in time.

 

Parting shot of the team at the El Cap tree.

 

We descended the east ledges to deepening clouds and a great desire to get back to camp, a good meal and a shower.

 

Heading down the east ledges.

 

The memories of this climb are much stronger then of many other climbs I have done. It is strange that a climb that I never drooled over could have such a profound effect on me. I guess that is why they call it the Greatest Rock Climb in the World.

 

 

Gear Notes:

Took a double rack in the big size with triples and such in the smaller size... Offset nuts very useful and offset cams moderately useful. Leave the cam hooks at home, not really worth it.

 

 

Approach Notes:

This doesn’t really apply in the valley like it does in Washington. Needless to say park in El Cap meadows and hike 10-15 minutes to the base. Can’t miss the wall, it’s the really big one.

Decent notes: The east ledges are pretty chill with three rappels on fixed static lines that I heard have been recently replaced by climbing rangers. Also when you get to the parking lot it is useful to get a ride in the back of a random climbers van down to the meadows. Especially if you later learn that the guy is pro climber, and Squamish local Will Stanhope, after buying him a beer and repeatedly call him Bill, while telling him about all the great climbs in the Cascades.

 

Edited October 23, 2012 by Riley81

[Dave7]

Well done. Thanks for the report!! Stoke is high!

[ivan]

all the cool people have climbed the nose

 

[mountainmatt]

Awesome! Thanks for the blow by blow account

 

 

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[matt_warfield]

Awesome! Thanks for the blow by blow account

 

 

.

 

Especially the poop and pee anecdotes.

[layton]

That was one awesome TR, I appreciate the detail too.

[wayne]

Yes, classic report for sure, thanks

[Tyson.g]

Right on Danny!

Great TR!

Way to go buddy.

 

[Riley81]

Thanks for the positive feedback all. Now I just have to get the moderators to change the title so I haven't climbed The Nost for the rest of time.

[hanman]

Great job danny and excellent tr!

[Sol]

Nice job Danny and partner. Every climber should climb the nose once in their life. We did it in two bivies, but we fixed and pre-hauled to Sickle on Day 1. I'll never forget topping out the Captain at sunset.. Great TR!

[curtveld]

A fine accomplishment! What I should have been doing 20 years ago.

[Riley81]

I don't think it's ever too late to climb a route like that. I found that it was alot more about perserverance then strength. You have to keep your wits about you and just keep pushing on regardless of the obstacles. Experience was my most useful tool. Knowing what would work out and what would not. That and having a partner you trust completley because when you can't hear him in high winds all the tugs in the world won't make up for a partner that is not doing exactly what they are supposed to.

 

[kevbone]

Awesome trip report.

[benmurphy]

Hell yeah Danny!

Congrats on the ascent, loved hearing all about it!

[Gaucho Argentino]

Hei, Dan, fantastic, pal!!!

That's a hell of a climb. Curious as to how much water you need to haul for a climb like this...

G.A.

[Riley81]

We took just shy of six gallons. More or less three liters per day per person. Some was used for coffee and cooking. More would be needed if it was hotter.

[keenwesh]

Mark and I got by on a liter and a half per day on half dome, I was dying on the descent. For a route that you'll be hauling I would budget 1 gallon a day per person. dehydration sucks!

[Sol]

My El Cap Rule: Dbl the water, 1/2 the food.

[Otto]

Good writing, nice pics, thanks!

[Buckaroo]

NICE TR, this one's been on my list for a long time, hopefully I get it while still capable