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Posted

wise king do not grieve

it is always better to avenge dear ones

than to indulge in mourning

for every one of us living in this world

means waiting for our end

let he who can achieve glory before death

when a warrior is gone

that will be his best and only bulwark

Posted

Thats sad. I met Jack in Talkeetna this year and got to fly into the range with him. I knew who he was because Huntington was one of the mountains that we were thinking of climbing, and I read about his climb many times in the weeks leading up to the trip (not that we were considering climbing the north face). Jens and I thought that it was a good omen to be flying in with a solid group of old hardmen. He's the second person who I met on that trip to die since then.

 

Jack below his objective this year: The Moose's Tooth

IMG_7789_Medium_1.JPG

 

Jack is the guy scrunched up in the background here. I only post this because I posted it on another thread a while back:

IMG_7794_Medium_.JPG

 

And the unrepeated North Face of Huntington:

P1010066_Medium_.JPG

Posted

I met Jack this year in Chamonix. I had the distinct pleasure of drytooling up some crappy choss with him for a couple days at a crag whose name I can't even remember, but Jack's memory will stick with me forever.

 

Jack had a smile on his face every moment I saw him and he had an endless love for the bacon burgers at Elevation. He was a storyteller, a guide, a climbing visionary, and a friend.

 

You'll be missed buddy.

Posted

"No man is an island,

Entire of itself.

Each is a piece of the continent,

A part of the main.

If a clod be washed away by the sea,

Europe is the less.

As well as if a promontory were.

As well as if a manor of thine own

Or of thine friend's were.

Each man's death diminishes me,

For I am involved in mankind.

Therefore, send not to know

For whom the bell tolls,

It tolls for thee.

 

john donne"

 

Never met you, but RIP Mr Roberts.

Posted

This was very sad. Two Fridays ago on the 6th I was at the Ouray Ice Festival and took an Advanced Water Ice clinic from Jack. He's a great guy and a great teacher.

 

Additionally, after climbing up Camp Bird Road outside of Ouray just a few days ago, I saw Jack again and we exchanged pleasantries.

 

I learned a bunch from him in 3 hours and he pushed me farther than I've gone before. I was sad to hear of his passing.

 

Bridalveil falls is pretty incredible too. WI5/6 over 150m. 3-4 pitches and he was very experienced. Sad day.

Posted

That is a really nice link Dane. A lot of wisdom found by this man in his life in the mountains that we would all do well to contemplate.

 

A life well lived.

 

RIP

 

d

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