Why the Alpine Starts on Rainier?

[billcoe]

link to thread and news story/bulletin?

 

I kind of remember that, maybe do a search.

 

Good luck on your quest (s).

[Marmot Prince]

I think that this is the point in time where you silently reflect and re-read your abortion of a post.

 

lolwut?

 

More sanctimony over a pretty serious issue. You know jackall about what happened. Competent climbers die all the time for reasons beyond their control and this situation may or not may have anything to do with soloing the DC.

 

Again, you don't seem to understand that to dissuade someone you have to show there is a gulf between their abilities and goals, not just shrieking and pointing to likely unrelated mistakes in the past.

[akhalteke]

I think that this is the point in time where you silently reflect and re-read your abortion of a post.

 

lolwut?

 

More sanctimony over a pretty serious issue. You know jackall about what happened. Competent climbers die all the time for reasons beyond their control and this situation may or not may have anything to do with soloing the DC.

 

Again, you don't seem to understand that to dissuade someone you have to show there is a gulf between their abilities and goals, not just shrieking and pointing to likely unrelated mistakes in the past.

 

Do you know how to do everything in my previous post? No. There is your gulf; fill it or be crevasse bait, I don't care.

 

Lets put it this way chappy, I have 6 of the seven summits more than you, 25+ ascents of Rainier and have climbed all over the World. The only place I have seen a dead mountain climber is Rainier and I have seen two.

 

You want to go not heeding the posters on this board? Fine. Just shut the fuck up and do it then. See you in hell.

[ivan]

you do indeed miss the point, jefe, and if you blow off folks about you, you too will end up going down the memory hole

 

bill got the right one, btw, and yeah, those boys problem, regardless of route/weather/whatever, seems to be yours too

 

[Jim]

Just stay in the tent and you'll be fine.

 

 

Holy cannoli - if that's a turd from the Marmot Princess Bride all is explained.

[sobo]

i was wrong - a year later dude WAS dead (on mt hood though), but they still havne't found the corpse

link to thread and news story/bulletin?

Search this board around mid-to-late summer of 2006, for climbs on the NF of Mt. Hood, with a username of Fuggedaboudit. He and his two partners died somewhere on the north side of Hood in mid-December of that year. He was a NY'er, and I think his partners were Texans. But by your royal proclamation, I'm an e-mountaineer and I don't know shit.

[Water]

mawwwwwwwwwwmet pwwwwwwwwince!

 

you may hate the "sanctimonious" attitudes here, but, as evidenced by every single one of your threads, that is the attitude here or at least what you get, eh? so why are you even bothering to post and ask for advice, are these threads helpful for you? I guess it is attitude I've seen plenty of people who sincerely want to listen and learn get plenty out of the site and even offerings for time on rock/ice/snow.

 

if someone posted a link to their post warning someone, and a link to a news article about someone's subsequent death due to something they did against advice (like climbing rock/icefall routes during an extreme inversion)--then what, you'd suddenly heed that persons advice? But not until they've demonstrated? Either way you come off dumb as fuck (whether you won't listen prior or do listen after evidence).

also A LOT is two words, you keep spelling it as one, maybe you can learn that unless you need to get the cred that i've mastered the dictionary.

 

in closing, nigeria is a land of contrast. MAaaaaaawwwwwwwmet PWWWWWINNNNCE!

[Marmot Prince]

Do you know how to do everything in my previous post? No. There is your gulf; fill it or be crevasse bait, I don't care.

 

Your a pretty confusing person. Your only comparison to Rainier was colorado despite being a world class mountaineer? Despite being all around the world with the 6 summits and with 25 ascents of Rainier, you only have 2 trip reports at a local Colorado crag and you look like your about 28. Hmmmm...

 

Anyways I have all of your list that I can use soloing except how to prevent AMS. I only know how to be aware of the symptoms and try to do things to reduce it, but I'm not at the zen like level to eliminate AMS after travelling about 9000' in a few days.

 

I know crevasse rescue etc., but somehow I don't think there is anything I can say to satisfy you. Most of the skills are qualitative, ie, there are experts who can manage ropes extremely efficiency or read glacier terrain better than I could ever achieve, the same way I will never climb 5.14+.

 

 

Search this board around mid-to-late summer of 2006, for climbs on the NF of Mt. Hood, with a username of fuggedaboutit. He and his two partners died somewhere on the north side of Hood in mid-December of that year. He was a NY'er, and I think his partners were Texans. But by your royal proclamation, I'm an e-mountaineer and I don't know shit.

 

Well already I'm on page 15 of that massive thread. I'm pretty sad in more than one way that you spoiled the ending.

 

The thread is actually pretty useful, with little spray and alot of tips about snow caves, etc. It's also pretty wierd to see your sig in that thread, could we change that pretty soon?

Edited January 7, 2012 by Marmot Prince

[Marmot Prince]

mawwwwwwwwwwmet pwwwwwwwwince!

 

you may hate the "sanctimonious" attitudes here, but, as evidenced by every single one of your threads, that is the attitude here or at least what you get, eh? so why are you even bothering to post and ask for advice, are these threads helpful for you? I guess it is attitude I've seen plenty of people who sincerely want to listen and learn get plenty out of the site and even offerings for time on rock/ice/snow.

 

if someone posted a link to their post warning someone, and a link to a news article about someone's subsequent death due to something they did against advice (like climbing rock/icefall routes during an extreme inversion)--then what, you'd suddenly heed that persons advice? But not until they've demonstrated? Either way you come off dumb as fuck (whether you won't listen prior or do listen after evidence).

also A LOT is two words, you keep spelling it as one, maybe you can learn that unless you need to get the cred that i've mastered the dictionary.

 

in closing, nigeria is a land of contrast. MAaaaaaawwwwwwwmet PWWWWWINNNNCE!

 

Actually they are pretty helpful. And your critique about "not heeding advice...demonstrated" has already been answered by me and I really don't care about to point out why your wrong.

 

By the way, to answer your question and others here, it's pretty clear what you think about me, but you don't really see what I see of you, and it's why you are confused.

 

Unlike you, I post here to get information. I just don't feel your critiques because they usually without content and motivated by your egos and false assumptions, which you are not aware of. I think this is revealed in many posts about my so called arrogance and comparing me to others, ie, the guy who "soloed" cassin. It's also revealing that when people are contradicted they quickly start angrily pulling out the credentials instead of walking away.

 

But I'm not here to impress anyone with climbing. When you try to put me down with name calling, etc, I just don't feel it because I don't have an ego, or at least not one I flaunt on internet forums, which is why you are so confused. I only want to climb.

 

 

Edited January 7, 2012 by Marmot Prince

[sobo]

Search this board around mid-to-late summer of 2006, for climbs on the NF of Mt. Hood, with a username of fuggedaboudit. He and his two partners died somewhere on the north side of Hood in mid-December of that year. He was a NY'er, and I think his partners were Texans. But by your royal proclamation, I'm an e-mountaineer and I don't know shit.

 

Well already I'm on page 15 of that massive thread. I'm pretty sad in more than one way that you spoiled the ending.

 

The thread is actually pretty useful, with little spray and alot of tips about snow caves, etc. It's also pretty wierd to see your sig in that thread, could we change pretty soon?

Sorry to "spoil the ending" for ya, Prince, but I thought ivan made the ending pretty clear upthread.

 

When you finally admit that we folks here do know WTF we're talking about, then I'll change my autosig. Until then, I kinda enjoy being an e-mountaineer and not knowing shit.

[Tyson.g]

Indeed that sig is so cool I may need to steal it.

 

[tele turnin]

I only want to climb.

 

 

Not to be offensive, but if this is the case why not climb with others? I think that you have been asked before your reasons for wanting to solo Rainier are and I don't recall seeing a definitive answer for that. (I could be wrong, it's happened in the past). Seems like you're out to prove something and for that reason want to solo Rainier.

I'm new to the board, the whole backcountry/mountaineering thing, and WA. I moved here in Aug 2010 and decided that there were a few things I really wanted to do including climbing Rainier. Did it in August in perfect conditions, full moon, good snow, easy route to the top. Could it have been done solo? Easily, and it only would have left one brown streak in my drawers due to a crevasse crossing at 13,800 that on the descent had a new ladder installed over it courtesy one of the guide companies. But the question remains, why do it alone? I wouldn't want to, not only for safety's sake but also for the enjoyment of being out there with friends. Do you normally just not climb with others, or is it just for Rainier that you don't want to go in a group or can't find one? This board seems to be a great area for people with similar interest to meet up and go on climbs together, but given your responses to others it looks like you may have burnt that bridge.

Edited January 7, 2012 by tele turnin

[sobo]

Indeed that sig is so cool I may need to steal it.

You can have it when I'm done with it, Tyson. But know that I'm enjoying it too much right now to let go of it anytime soon.

[akhalteke]

Do you know how to do everything in my previous post? No. There is your gulf; fill it or be crevasse bait, I don't care.

 

Your a pretty confusing person. Your only comparison to Rainier was colorado despite being a world class mountaineer? Despite being all around the world with the 6 summits and with 25 ascents of Rainier, you only have 2 trip reports at a local Colorado crag and you look like your about 28. Hmmmm...

 

Anyways I have all of your list that I can use soloing except how to prevent AMS. I only know how to be aware of the symptoms and try to do things to reduce it, but I'm not at the zen like level to eliminate AMS after travelling about 9000' in a few days.

 

I know crevasse rescue etc., but somehow I don't think there is anything I can say to satisfy you. Most of the skills are qualitative, ie, there are experts who can manage ropes extremely efficiency or read glacier terrain better than I could ever achieve, the same way I will never climb 5.14+.

 

 

Yeah dude, fuck it. Since it is qualitative, just don't learn it. Good idea. I think it is time I get a new sig line as well. Sorry, I don't post trip reports, my job requires I travel frequently, and I rarely have much time post trip to do a TR.

[Choada_Boy]

I am trying to research the skills required to be an astronaut so that I can build a spaceship and go to the moon. Any advice that I can ignore?

[Marmot Prince]

FYI, Although the situation about the Mt Hood deaths was presented as a noob getting owned, none of you guys must have read the 30+ page thread or the SAR reports about the climbers in question. I did. There is no good evidence that indicates any of them were incompetent or unprepared. They were killed by a series of circumstances that can occur to any climber. I suggest you read the thread yourselves, it's pretty useful.

 

 

Yeah dude, fuck it. Since it is qualitative, just don't learn it. Good idea. I think it is time I get a new sig line as well. Sorry, I don't post trip reports, my job requires I travel frequently, and I rarely have much time post trip to do a TR.

 

That doesn't even make sense, I never said I didn't know those skills, in fact I said I did but that even if I did...nevermind.

 

Anyways I call epic bullshit on your 6 summits and 25 rainier ascents. I was pretty curious about someone with those summits and also all 54 14ers, so I tried to go through your posts and its literally 40 pages of spray about obamacare and is SS a scam. Yeah, I'm sure you're a busy man.

 

Post up some identifiable pics of you on one of the summits and on Rainier, or else I guess you were too busy to bring a camera.

 

 

Not to be offensive, but if this is the case why not climb with others?

....

I wouldn't want to, not only for safety's sake but also for the enjoyment of being out there with friends. Do you normally just not climb with others, or is it just for Rainier that you don't want to go in a group or can't find one?...

 

 

 

I would be pretty happy to go with others, not ruling this out, right now I'm in long range planning. Also the information I learn about Rainier solo is still pretty useful if going in a party or even a guided group. I'm not ruling out any sort of trip, and solo is possible.

 

I go on trips with others about half the time. I also enjoy going alone, it has a different feeling. Both have virtues. You can get alot more contemplative and focused on the climb rather than concerning yourself with others people which I tend to do. Soloing is alot more aesthetically pleasing and your speed will not be limited by people who don't train as hard as you.

 

I have alot of hiking friends but few mountaineering ones where I am and I don't feel comfortable for others peoples safety to bring my hiker friends up big mountains.

 

On the otherhand I have some hardcore mountaineering contacts back in the northwest but their busy working on some technical stuff I'm years away from. From this thread you might get an impression Rainier is the biggest thing out there, but the DC route and even Liberty Ridge are mild compared to stuff like this:

 

 

It's possible they will come with me but also possible that they view DC as a snowy treadmill and won't be interested.

 

 

This board seems to be a great area for people with similar interest to meet up and go on climbs together, but given your responses to others it looks like you may have burnt that bridge.

 

I don't want to climb a big mountain with strangers. Also you should check out the yak peak thread. They burnt that guy because his goal was too easy, while my goal apparently is too hardcore. So what would be an acceptable thread to start here? It's hard to most of these people seriously.

 

Seems like you're out to prove something and for that reason want to solo Rainier.

 

What am I proving and to whom?

 

Most of my friends don't understand mountains. They might know everest is tall and hard to climb, but most of them will basically nod their heads appreciatively if I said I climbed Rainier or Mt Si. My hardcore mountaineering contacts wouldn't be impressed by a DC route, it's a snow walk.

 

As for proving something to myself, well, if I solo either 3 things will happen: Conditions are good like for you and I snow walk the cattle trail to the summit, conditions are bad or I get AMS and turn around, or I have some serious accident. None of those seem like they would prove anything.

 

Your question would be more poignant if I never climbed before. Rainier is a good respectable objective but I've keep checking off peaks for a while, some involving some serious danger and exposure.

 

I think I just like to climb.

[Choada_Boy]

AWESOME!!! POST OF THE YEAR???

[akhalteke]

Anyways I call epic bullshit on your 6 summits and 25 rainier ascents. Post up some identifiable pics of you on one of the summits and on Rainier, or else I guess you were too busy to bring a camera.

 

 

There ya go champ.

[akhalteke]

Oh Snap Bitch!

 

[akhalteke]

 

14er...

[Marmot Prince]

 

14er...

 

You win dude. Look if you have that many accomplishments you have better things to argue with me. I got your point, I really did and will think about it.

[Pete_H]

Here's a pic of me and my team on the N Face of K2. I'm kind of a big deal.

 

[tvashtarkatena]

I soloed that shit.

[sobo]

FYI, Although the situation about the Mt Hood deaths was presented as a noob getting owned, none of you guys must have read the 30+ page thread or the SAR reports about the climbers in question. I did. There is no good evidence that indicates any of them were incompetent or unprepared. They were killed by a series of circumstances that can occur to any climber. I suggest you read the thread yourselves, it's pretty useful.

By what logic do you arrive at this conclusion? Many of us here read that thread as the tradegy was unfolding, there was a companion thread containing dozens of pages of speculation after the event had passed, and might I add that many of us on this board were actually on the mountain looking for them as the days went by. So to my untrained e-mountaineer eye, it appears to me that you're making incorrect assumptions and proceeding from a false premise that none of us read those threads.

 

Nobody here that I recall ever said that they were incompetent. Fuggedaboudit came on here a couple of years before he died and asked several questions regarding Liberty Ridge. He and two partners attempted it in 2004, but were turned back. He summitted Athabasca's NF that fall. He returned to Rainier and summitted via the Emmons in 2005. He summitted Assiniboine's NF that same fall. He returned to Rainier a year later and was ultimately successful on LR in the summer of 2006. It was on this climb that he met the two Texans that would be his future partners for the NF of Mt. Hood that winter. We were happy for him and his successes, he had huge stoke and seemed to know what he was doing, and no one here ever flamed him that I can recall. He then set his sights on the NF of Hood in winter with the Texans and started asking questions about it. From his past record of success, nobody flamed him for what they were contemplating, and in fact he was provided with several good pieces of information by many of the regulars here.

 

But were you to go back and re-read the main Mt. Hood rescue thread and also the "speculation" thread, you will find that they made a series a small miscalculations that individually may have amounted to nothing, but cumulatively they cascaded into a full-on emergency situation. Yes, they knew poor weather was forecasted in a couple of days, but that poor weather arrived earlier than forecasted. Agreed, not their fault. Yes, that poor weather was shittier than forecasted. Agreed, not their fault. Yes, said weather arrived from a direction from which they could not monitor. They knew that going in, so that's their judgment call and an acceptable risk, because that's just something that you have to accept when climbing on that side of the mountain. Yes, at least two appeared to have summitted, but then apparently got lost trying to find the descent. That's their error.

 

Recall that they were travelling "fast and light" in winter, but when doing so and confronted with deteriorating conditions, it is better to retire than to press a bad situation into a worse situation. Going F&L in summer and becoming engaged in a clusterfuck will make for merely a mildly unpleasant evening somewhere en route. Going F&L in winter and becoming engaged in a clusterfuck will leave one very little margin for error, as has been aptly demonstrated. They continued upward in a worsening storm, a storm which they knew was coming before they left the trailhead, and were trapped by it. They made a poor judgment call. Then the rescuers were hampered in their efforts to rescue them by the same storm. That made their poor call even more of a desperate situation.

 

We will probably never know what really happened up there, but the evidence gathered by the rescuers and from the snow caves would seem to suggest that there was an injury (shoulder, IIRC) to at least one climber that likely prevented him from continuing. The other two left him sheltered in a snow cave and went for help. Noble. However, they apparently summitted and then got lost, fell off the north side somewhere, and died. Then the lone climber in the cave eventually expired. All of this may have been prevented by paying a bit more attention to their situational awareness. That's all any of us were saying. Nobody was bashing them as n00bs. Now I'm done.

Edited January 7, 2012 by sobo

[medicsandy]

Originally Posted By: akhalteke

 

 

1) Glacier experience, crevasse rescue, self rescue crevasse training, AMS prevention Glacial route finding, whiteout navigation, wilderness first aid, snow anchor placement, ice anchor placement, rope management skills, how to avoid high altitude ailments like corneal burns, self arrest techniques, escape the belay techniques, shall I go on?

 

You answered: those are skills not experience.

 

Really??? those are skills gained by experience you block head!

 

1. As an "old lady - new climber" I say you're ignorant.

 

2. As a Paramedic...I say GO FOR IT!! As we say in my business..ignorant people are job security. I will get paid big money to save your ass and use it to buy drinks for all of these guys who did their alpine start and made it back to the bar in time for happy hour!! hahahahahahahahaha!!!!

Edited January 7, 2012 by medicsandy