Solo application for Rainer

[obwan]

This is hard to resist a two-cents worth comment - maybe it's the name !?; You must trust the force young Luke, and also the good advice that others have expressed. Kudos to sobo,Dru,choada etc. for their effort.

Obviously we don't know your actual experience and background, but the average completion rate is 50% on Rainier. I'm not that sure if it's only the Guided trips or the Independents. The point I have to make is regarding conditioning and weather, and routing finding capabilities which all have a greater bearing than slogging up a boot path. Climbing Rainier solo is no BFD if all the planets and stars are properly aligned and in your favor - I mean you could even just do it in a day, hike up to Muir (eat, take a nap) and follow the headlamps and cattle drive to the top.

In regard to the two questions that you simply wanted to know how to respond - I feel that they are appropriate, and they just want your answer either from a book or your possible vast experience. Doing anything solo is a great experience but should not burden others - it's a wonder this thread is not in Spray.

Good luck in your adventures.

[cynicalwoodsman]

All I need is a cool buzz, a tasty thread, 'n I'm fine!

Damn this is good stuff.

 

I just popped some corn, put on another pot o' joe, 'n I'm gonna take in the new year by getting pie-eyed and e-surfing til you west-coasters wake up 'n keep this thing goin'!

 

C'mon Meh'N! I can't answer either of those questions so I stay pinned down on the couch. Glaciers, dude? You'll poke yer eye out!

And you'll never make it back in time for happy hour. That ain't livin'!

I'd rather crawl thru glass on my bare knees and elbows than deal with 100% objective hazard and 0 climbing.

To me, seeing the inside of a big yawner is like seein' a griz in the backcountry or maybe a tornado... for a second it seems like a cool idea. But really? Falling into AND climbing out of a crevasse... on Ranier... that sounds like a hoot. 3 words: Hel Met Cam.

 

You'd be WELL-advised to learn yerself somthin' about the differences between runnin' up a sierra or basin and range 14er, and a cascadian glacier slog.... PARTICULARLY THE MOST GLACIATED TERRAIN IN THE LOWER '48, dumbass.

 

MarmotPrince... that sounds like some sorta disney cartoon. But all digression aside, if you'da come in here 'n asked for advice... and not so eagerly bitten the hands that would'a prolly offered to take you up the hill (it happens... all the time) and bestow upon you more knowlege than 80% of every other poser on the slog that day, then you'd not have so briskly offered yourself up as fodder in here and been so quick to take your place in the long gray line of incessant ignorance.

 

Somebody should link one of the many prior similarly-launched threads that lived happily ever after for many-a-former prince.

 

What's his name... that one dude... C.H.?

 

But hay man, I got a lid to keep burnin, the mummer's ain't on the tube in cleveland... I can't plug in my les paul til everyone's awake, and football ain't on for several hours so this is good stuff! keep it comin, boys. Keep it comin'

[billcoe]

As Sobos wisdom and advice was met with a "Fuck YOU" by the Prince ....I'd recommend elevating this conversation and taking it up with the Marmot King. Clearly no one on this board has that kind of vig.

 

 

 

If the Marmot King is unavailable (due to hibernation issues) we can take it to the Burger King.

 

Flame on.

 

 

MP, this may sound like I'm coming off as an ass, but I say the following things in an effort to get you to pause momentarily and assess your real motiviations for soloing Rainier with what clearly appears to be a lack of the requisite experience. To wit, you come on this board 3 weeks ago and tell us you don't need your Baltura boots anymore cuz you're "not going to be doing any ice climbing or chilly mountaineering." Then you proceed to jump upon a thread wherein someone's selling a bunch of BD ice screws. Then you tell us that you've got these great BD ice tools but you have 0 ice climbing experience. Then you start asking questions about soloing Rainier and wanting to see if you get by with shit gear (that speedy shovel thingy) and why do people get up so early to summit Rainier. Then you ask for the answers to questions the solo permit application poses, apparently without having the answer already or taking the time to think these things through for yourself. It seems to me that you are asking questions that clearly indicate that you are in for a seriously rude awakening if you try to pull this off yourself at your current level of (in)experience.

 

Although if the shit hits the fan for you, this ain't the Hamalaya or the Karakoram and someone will (most likely) stop to help you instead of leaving you there to die. But people do die on Rainier all the time, even on the easiest mule route. You give us the impression that you really don't know what you're doing or what you're getting into, and yet you insist on trying to pull this off solo. You are going to endanger yourself, or more importantly someone else, most likely your rescuers. Seriously, why are you doing this? Did you just break up with a LTR or what? We'd hate to read about you in the Tacoma Tribune or the PI.

[rob]

Clearly no one on this board has that kind of vig.

 

Hey Bill, what's a vig?

 

Man, it's a good thing Marmot Princess didnt post this troll in the newbies forum or KirkW would be crying that everyone is being too mean to him

[treknclime]

Sobo = an illusion/troll buster.

 

Keep up the good work!

[Coldfinger]

One other thought:

 

Folks who go on ill-advised solo trips and get into trouble become the poster boys for those who want to require sat. beacons, high use fees or strict regulations--ALL OF WHICH AFFECT THOSE OF US WHO DO KNOW WHAT WE'RE DOING!!

 

Had a fellow that showed up here in Wyoming and has been rescued twice in three trips, last one was that he got stuck in deep snow and wore himself out and hit the "I need medical help immediately" button on his beacon and almost triggered his SECOND helicopter rescue. The only reason the helicopter didn't come is that it got diverted to a double fatality in the Tetons (if I recall correctly). As I recall he wasn't far from a snowshoeing/ski trail that was well broken.

[sobo]

Folks who go on ill-advised solo trips and get into trouble become the poster boys for those who want to require sat. beacons, high use fees or strict regulations--ALL OF WHICH AFFECT THOSE OF US WHO DO KNOW WHAT WE'RE DOING!!

THIS!!!1

[dougd]

lol

[E-rock]

"It's like being asked how you would belay safely while doing a multi pitch route solo. The question doesn't make sense."

 

"On my first solo, on Whitney, it was winter and I turned back at only 13,000'. I had light trail hikers on that couldn't really fit crampons and got some weird looks from a guide who was coming off the mountain."

 

These are the two gems that struck me while reading this important thread.

 

[DPS]

What is the old saying? 'God loves fools' or something like that?

[sobo]

I believe it is "God watches over fools and little children."

[DPS]

Thanks Sobo.

[wetslide]

How hard is it to get approved for soloing Rainer? I'm filling out the solo applications for Rainer...and I get these questions:

 

Describe your technical method of crossing crevasses safely:

 

Describe your method of self-rescue from a crevasse:

 

Huh?

 

Well there are conceivable ways to solo protect yourself, but involve travelling 3 times across the same area. Am I really expected to say this, what do the Rangers want to hear?

Here is how I would answer them.

Describe your technical method of crossing crevasses safely: I approach with caution, probing the area I am going to cross. I will approach slowly, and cross the crevasse.

Describe your method of self-rescue from a crevasse: Assuming I am not very deep into the crevasse, I will extricate myself with my ice tools and/or ski poles. If I am too deep, I will attempt to summon help by whatever means necessary and at my disposal.

[wetslide]

Is there really a mechanism for denying a request? I actually doubt there is a set of requirements which must be met

 

To the OP, nice troll

 

Maybe if you knew there is literally an "application" to get a solo permit, you would have some business posting in this thread. Otherwise stop spraying my tread.

 

MP, this may sound like I'm coming off as an ass, but I say the following things in an effort to get you to pause momentarily and assess your real motiviations for soloing Rainier with what clearly appears to be a lack of the requisite experience. To wit, you come on this board 3 weeks ago and tell us you don't need your Baltura boots anymore cuz you're "not going to be doing any ice climbing or chilly mountaineering." Then you proceed to jump upon a thread wherein someone's selling a bunch of BD ice screws. Then you tell us that you've got these great BD ice tools but you have 0 ice climbing experience. Then you start asking questions about soloing Rainier and wanting to see if you get by with shit gear (that speedy shovel thingy) and why do people get up so early to summit Rainier.

 

I appreciate you reading my posts, but quite frankly your analysis sucks.

 

1. "Batura" ice climbing boots are not necessary to climb Rainier in summer conditions. Lighter mountaineering boots with a 3/4 shank are preferable.

2. I'm ice climbing and working on other technical skills, which HAVE NOTHING TO DO with the standard DC route on Rainer.

3. I never said I wanted to get by with "shit gear" and most soloists probably don't even bring a shovel. If started a thread on unicycles would you assume I would be planning ride one up there?

4. A 10pm to 2 am alpine start just doesn't make sense if you're climbing in good conditions. Maybe there is some freakish wind or some other weird glacier condition changing that isn't obvious.

 

This whole paragraph makes me think either/both your knowledge of gear or analysis of people's motives is pretty bad. By the way, what business it is of yours if I'm buying ice screws? Fuck off.

 

Then you ask for the answers to questions the solo permit application poses, apparently without having the answer already or taking the time to think these things through for yourself. It seems to me that you are asking questions that clearly indicate that you are in for a seriously rude awakening if you try to pull this off yourself at your current level of (in)experience.

 

Lol. Anyone who can use google can answer basic questions about glacier travel and crevasse rescue. On the other hand, who can answer a question about the same topics solo. It's like being asked how you would belay safely while doing a multi pitch route solo. The question doesn't make sense.

 

Although if the shit hits the fan for you, this ain't the Hamalaya or the Karakoram and someone will (most likely) stop to help you instead of leaving you there to die. But people do die on Rainier all the time, even on the easiest mule route. You give us the impression that you really don't know what you're doing or what you're getting into, and yet you insist on trying to pull this off solo. You are going to endanger yourself, or more importantly someone else, most likely your rescuers. Seriously, why are you doing this? Did you just break up with a LTR or what? We'd hate to read about you in the Tacoma Tribune or the PI.

 

First you criticize me for throwing away Batura's, and don't have enough ice climbing experience. Do you even know what the DC route is? Based on your post, you're the one playing mountaineer without a clue. And now it looks like you're a shrink too. So where do you get your safety tips? Page 303 of Freedom of the Hills? Guess what, I've read that too.

 

The bottom line is that I'm doing research months in advance for a possible solo attempt on Rainier. I've climbed higher peaks than Rainier solo, and traveled on alot of glaciers. By making this trip, I'm doing the same thing I've been doing for years. I have nothing to prove to you or need to prove to you. If you don't want to answer someone's questions that's fine, but you shouldn't shit on other people's threads.

You clearly are the greater mountaineer than I, Prince, and my 27-odd years of rock, ice, and alpine climbing and mountaineering, the last 22 of which were right here in the PNW, don't count for shit. And neither does my 9 years of mountain rescue experience, hauling princely mountaineers such as yourself off the flanks of several volcanoes around here. And neither does my dozen or so ascents of Rainier, not by the donkey routes, from almost all points of the compass, in all seasons and conditions, doesn't count for shit either. And niether do any of my many other ascents of other peaks and volcanoes, even your sacred 14-ers, they don't count for shit either, I guess. So you're right, I'm an e-mountaineer that has never done the DC. I don't ever intend to. It's a conga line in which I don not wish to participate. So you're right, I'm full of shit. So in your own words, fuck off!

What a douchebag. Even Summitchaser wasn't this obnoxious...

Thanks buddy.

[sobo]

Was wondering when you were gonna see that. You're welcome.

[G-spotter]

How hard is it to get approved for soloing Rainer? I'm filling out the solo applications for Rainer...and I get these questions:

 

Describe your technical method of crossing crevasses safely:

 

Describe your method of self-rescue from a crevasse:

 

Huh?

 

Well there are conceivable ways to solo protect yourself, but involve travelling 3 times across the same area. Am I really expected to say this, what do the Rangers want to hear?

Here is how I would answer them.

Describe your technical method of crossing crevasses safely: I approach with caution, probing the area I am going to cross. I will approach slowly, and cross the crevasse.

Describe your method of self-rescue from a crevasse: Assuming I am not very deep into the crevasse, I will extricate myself with my ice tools and/or ski poles. If I am too deep, I will attempt to summon help by whatever means necessary and at my disposal.

 

A: Since it is not in my plan to fall into a crevasse, if I do, I will use whatever time I have left to slowly melt an epic poem, extemporaneously composed, into the ice-wall with my tongue while I die of hypothermia.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Assuming I am not very deep into the crevasse, I will extricate myself with my ice tools and/or ski poles. If I am too deep, I will attempt to summon help by whatever means necessary and at my disposal.

 

I have practiced crevasse rescue. I was lowered 50 feet into a crevasse and prusik'ed out. Once over the lip and into the abyss I could not hear the voices of anyone outside, nor could they hear me.

 

So, unless you bring a flaregun with you... good luck summoning help.

 

[wetslide]

Assuming I am not very deep into the crevasse, I will extricate myself with my ice tools and/or ski poles. If I am too deep, I will attempt to summon help by whatever means necessary and at my disposal.

 

I have practiced crevasse rescue. I was lowered 50 feet into a crevasse and prusik'ed out. Once over the lip and into the abyss I could not hear the voices of anyone outside, nor could they hear me.

 

So, unless you bring a flaregun with you... good luck summoning help.

cell phone? Mine had service on the DC. Even uploaded pics to facebook.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Assuming I am not very deep into the crevasse, I will extricate myself with my ice tools and/or ski poles. If I am too deep, I will attempt to summon help by whatever means necessary and at my disposal.

 

I have practiced crevasse rescue. I was lowered 50 feet into a crevasse and prusik'ed out. Once over the lip and into the abyss I could not hear the voices of anyone outside, nor could they hear me.

 

So, unless you bring a flaregun with you... good luck summoning help.

cell phone? Mine had service on the DC. Even uploaded pics to facebook.

 

Hike up to Muir. Test your cell phone. Then descend the Cowlitz to a crevasse. Build an anchor and lower yourself into the crevasse 30 feet. Try your cell phone again.

 

 

[DPS]

Do radio waves penetrate glacial ice?

[wetslide]

Gentlemen, Gentlemen. This is merely an academic discussion. I am merely positing that it is a potential solution to use your cell phone while trapped in a crevasse. This is not to say I've tested my cellphone extensively at any given elevation, location. It just to say that my cellphone was able to upload photos at around 12,000 feet. Pretty impressive and it takes a pretty good signal to do that.

spray on...

[Pete_H]

Do internet waves penetrate crevasses so I can post on Facebook while I'm waiting to die?

[G-spotter]

It's merely an academic discussion, but I am positing that it is a potential solution to USE THE NITRO just like they do in Vertical Limit. Or else have the Pakistani Army blast you out with mortars.

[Pete_H]

That's what I would have written on my solo application.

[DPS]

If a soloist falls in a crevasse and he can't update his Facebook page, will anyone care?