JasonG Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 Ha! One of the great reasons to tune in to as the cc.com turns . . .never a dull moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kukuzka1 Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 true enough. love it here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Hands Posted September 8, 2010 Author Share Posted September 8, 2010 Bump! How goes progress on this cuttin edge line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 Edlinger, the funny thing is that the guy you're "educating" is the one who did the prior ascent of the IB wall. I don't think it was an 80% overlap, but it's discussed elsewhere and kukuzka1's ascent was a bold adventure. Â LOL! Big props kukuzka1! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shapp Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 somehow this is cool and infinate blizz is not??!?! Â Somehow IB gets bashed a lot whereas Darrington bolted routes are well-loved. Setting aside the anti-bolt nazi movement, the objections to IB fall into several classes. Â 1 - It is in wilderness. Darrington is not. Mt Index is not (correct me if I'm wrong). Â 2 - It is reported to have been created top-down. Most Dtown routes were put up on lead. Sounds like the Index one is ground up too. Â 3 - The bolt placement is not to the liking of some parties (too close in places and missing an anchor up high). Dtown bolts are not quite as close as IB. No idea what's going up on Index. Â That's about it. People will spray all kinds of venom, but it mostly just covers these same points over and over again. ZZZZZZZ. Â I've climbed IB and enjoyed it. My concerns fall under 1 and 3. Â Not that I particularly care either way, but to correct this: Â A lot of Darrington vicinity bolted climbing areas are in the Wilderness. Most of the modern routes have been put up Top down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 Interestingly enough highly-localized historical precident seens to drive the "consensus" feeling towards new climbs. Â D-Town has a long history of bolted routes, new routes are accepted regardless of wilderness location or style. Â Mt Garfield did not. Â In that vein Mount Index has not either. Putting up a bolted face climb on a buttress that houses what might be the hardest rock climb in Washington seems sort of like an abortion but this being Washington I don't controversy ever gets to loud ore sustained. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Hands Posted September 10, 2010 Author Share Posted September 10, 2010 I've heard that Doorish rapped into NNW like he did on Baring, Bear etc. Can any one say for sure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boadman Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 Out of curiosity, what might be the hardest rock climb in Washington? It seems like it would probably be a rap bolted sport route, rather than a ground up trad line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 Out of curiosity, what might be the hardest rock climb in Washington? clearly it would be the climb having the least amount of fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turn_one Posted September 10, 2010 Share Posted September 10, 2010 Seems a bit old and have fewer bolts than you describe but there was this route from Blair Williams, Roger Strong and company that's in the area. Scroll to look for Voodo Project: AAJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kukuzka1 Posted September 11, 2010 Share Posted September 11, 2010 mount garfield is a mountain not a crag Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Hands Posted October 7, 2010 Author Share Posted October 7, 2010 Finally got the skinny on this one. No thanks goes to any of the ass clowns on this site though! Â If the climbers in question would quit sitting around taking bong rips, they could probably send it. Either way I look forward to hearing about it in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boadman Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 I was up there the other day and tried to locate the line, and couldn't find it. I didn't look very hard. It doesn't seem like it's that obtrusive though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orion_sonya Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 So what's the skinny? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 I It doesn't seem like it's that obtrusive though. Â Neither is IB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted October 7, 2010 Share Posted October 7, 2010 Finally got the skinny on this one. No thanks goes to any of the ass clowns on this site though! If the climbers in question would quit sitting around taking bong rips, they could probably send it. Either way I look forward to hearing about it in the future.  Whatever it is, if it can't be sent while taking bong rips, it's likely not worth the effort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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