NNW Buttress Sport Climb?

[JasonG]

Ha! One of the great reasons to tune in to as the cc.com turns . . .never a dull moment.

[kukuzka1]

true enough. love it here

[Mr. Hands]

Bump! How goes progress on this cuttin edge line?

[billcoe]

Edlinger, the funny thing is that the guy you're "educating" is the one who did the prior ascent of the IB wall. I don't think it was an 80% overlap, but it's discussed elsewhere and kukuzka1's ascent was a bold adventure.

 

LOL! Big props kukuzka1!

[shapp]

somehow this is cool and infinate blizz is not??!?!

 

Somehow IB gets bashed a lot whereas Darrington bolted routes are well-loved. Setting aside the anti-bolt nazi movement, the objections to IB fall into several classes.

 

1 - It is in wilderness. Darrington is not. Mt Index is not (correct me if I'm wrong).

 

2 - It is reported to have been created top-down. Most Dtown routes were put up on lead. Sounds like the Index one is ground up too.

 

3 - The bolt placement is not to the liking of some parties (too close in places and missing an anchor up high). Dtown bolts are not quite as close as IB. No idea what's going up on Index.

 

That's about it. People will spray all kinds of venom, but it mostly just covers these same points over and over again. ZZZZZZZ.

 

I've climbed IB and enjoyed it. My concerns fall under 1 and 3.

 

Not that I particularly care either way, but to correct this:

 

A lot of Darrington vicinity bolted climbing areas are in the Wilderness. Most of the modern routes have been put up Top down.

[dberdinka]

Interestingly enough highly-localized historical precident seens to drive the "consensus" feeling towards new climbs.

 

D-Town has a long history of bolted routes, new routes are accepted regardless of wilderness location or style.

 

Mt Garfield did not.

 

In that vein Mount Index has not either. Putting up a bolted face climb on a buttress that houses what might be the hardest rock climb in Washington seems sort of like an abortion but this being Washington I don't controversy ever gets to loud ore sustained.

[Mr. Hands]

I've heard that Doorish rapped into NNW like he did on Baring, Bear etc. Can any one say for sure?

[boadman]

Out of curiosity, what might be the hardest rock climb in Washington? It seems like it would probably be a rap bolted sport route, rather than a ground up trad line?

[ivan]

Out of curiosity, what might be the hardest rock climb in Washington?

clearly it would be the climb having the least amount of fun.

[turn_one]

Seems a bit old and have fewer bolts than you describe but there was this route from Blair Williams, Roger Strong and company that's in the area. Scroll to look for Voodo Project: AAJ

[kukuzka1]

mount garfield is a mountain not a crag

[Mr. Hands]

Finally got the skinny on this one. No thanks goes to any of the ass clowns on this site though!

 

If the climbers in question would quit sitting around taking bong rips, they could probably send it. Either way I look forward to hearing about it in the future.

[boadman]

I was up there the other day and tried to locate the line, and couldn't find it. I didn't look very hard. It doesn't seem like it's that obtrusive though.

[orion_sonya]

So what's the skinny?

[kevbone]

I It doesn't seem like it's that obtrusive though.

 

Neither is IB.

[JoshK]

Finally got the skinny on this one. No thanks goes to any of the ass clowns on this site though!

 

If the climbers in question would quit sitting around taking bong rips, they could probably send it. Either way I look forward to hearing about it in the future.

 

Whatever it is, if it can't be sent while taking bong rips, it's likely not worth the effort.