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rocketparrotlet

Old pro

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What kind of weird and funky pro did you guys use before the advent of "modern" gear? How much did you place it, and did you ever fall on it? I've seen some pieces that I would DEFINITELY not trust my life to.

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protection on rock climbs are important. so is hydration. the above photo is a perfect piece of pro.

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Try the 3rd pitch of the South East Corner of Beacon Rock. There is some scary stuff on that one. Weird hangers with button heads.

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No pics but my friend Dave cut off a tapered plastic frying pan handle, threaded it with 7mil cord and made a working chock out of it that he seemed to always have on his rack. It paired well with the harness he had sewn himself.

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Try the 3rd pitch of the South East Corner of Beacon Rock. There is some scary stuff on that one. Weird hangers with button heads.

Huh? I can't think of any hangers on p2 or p3 of the Corner.

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old_pro.JPG

 

Here is a pic for Steins Pillar old rotten gear along with the new.

Photo credit rpc on MountainProject.com

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Try the 3rd pitch of the South East Corner of Beacon Rock. There is some scary stuff on that one. Weird hangers with button heads.

Huh? I can't think of any hangers on p2 or p3 of the Corner.

 

I am sure there were at least one rotten nasty tinfoil looking hanger just above and left of the crux on the 3rd pitch.

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Oh, I know where you mean. It's on the original high traverse variation - I never go over there, so out of sight, out of mind. Not sure who considers that p3 rather than p2. Yeah, those old hangers are sometimes dubious which is a shame because by and large the split shank buttonheads they're on will still be around long after Beacon has turned to dust.

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wow! my fave so far:

 

IMG_5329.jpg

 

Except for being flattened, this looks like one of the meat cleaver hangers that originally protected a pitch on Silent Running.

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i collected some photos of (mostly) fixed stuff on sp, here:

 

mank

 

some examples:

333662.JPG

 

403798.jpg

 

412167.jpg

Edited by fgw

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Except for being flattened, this looks like one of the meat cleaver hangers that originally protected a pitch on Silent Running.

 

It actually looks like it was a good hanger until it got whanged, I wonder what the story is.

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Except for being flattened, this looks like one of the meat cleaver hangers that originally protected a pitch on Silent Running.

 

It actually looks like it was a good hanger until it got whanged, I wonder what the story is.

 

Given the abrasions, I would bet rockfall. It's clearly made of aluminum. Maybe even some hardware extrusion. Not what I would call "good".

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403798.jpg

 

This one reminded me of the ladder of superglued 1/2 inch blue tubular webbing loops somebody put up on a boulder (Wine?)in Camp 4 back in the 80's. Some of them were missing, but word was they held body weight.

 

 

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this actually isn't too bad...

100_4373.JPG

 

That I would trust on aid. Not sure I would trust it as a free piece.

Edited by Plaidman

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this actually isn't too bad...

100_4373.JPG

 

That I would trust on aid. Not sure I would trust it as a free piece.

i was going to say that same thing, scotty, but i felt i might get too wordy and lose people while stating so :laf:

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