Shiny new bolt on Castle Rock

[Peter_Puget]

Great pic Off! here's a picture of Peter as Peter...separated at birth maybe?

 

[Peter_Puget]

No keep the sport routes on other rocks. Not every inch of rock needs to be climbed.

Honoring Castle Rock would be best by just tidying it up a bit and climbing the established lines...aren't there like 64+/- routes on the crag?

 

I am confused this is the same argument you have use before to stop sport routes spreading to outlying crags. (Cognitive dissonance) I would point out that the area I have suggested would be the perfect place for sport routes is about 100’ from the closest route and has an area in sq ft that must be in the thousands.

 

 

Although the exeperience of leading cleanlove with full on dirt conditions (at the crux) is now a part of the past, I really do think this is a "better" asset. Cheers!

 

When I first climbed Clean Love, shortly after the FA, it was very clean. I doubt anyone ever lead the route free in the true “full on” dirt conditions. Over the years that section of rock has become dirtier and dirtier but I doubt it has fully returned to its pre cleaned state. Nut placements that are easily cleaned are one of the last things to go. Even occasional ascents with make placing gear far easier than in the original “full on” state.

 

 

By the way one thing that might make sport routes a bad idea is that any loose blocks might end up on the highway!(hitting a car?) Those history buffs amongst us will of course note that that is also a tradition in NW rock climbing starting perhaps with Mr Beckey himself!

 

[Sol]

I agree with bwrts, lets let Daz Muzak stand as the anomaly, the only sport climb on castle.

 

Peter, yes, there is a good deal of rock to the left of Daz/Rainshadow that looks steep and blocky, but rather than bolt it, I imagine some traditional testpieces more in line with classics like No Such Thing As a Free Lunge, Shriek of the Mutilated, Dan's Dreadful Direct, etc. Plenty of bolts in both canyons, no reason to place more on castle.

[DCramer]

Sol -

 

Here's my take:

 

I say go put a route up in trad style but I do wonder about your definition of trad. Both DDD and Free were TR'd before the fa. Also Lunch isnt really all that runout. My guess from climbing it years ago was that DDD wasn't as crazy as some other routes. (eg Lee's ascent of the Thumb OW) Or comparing to a semi sport route: Zweibles was probably a more dangerous lead when it was first climbed simply due to friable rock. I broke off some rock trying to lead it decided to TR it and then broke off a bunch more. I should note that out of the three you mentioned I have tr'd DDD, TR &led NFL never been on Shriek. Just why have you found these classic?

 

The guy to first figure out how to free No Free Lunge wouldnt try to lead it because it wasn't "trad" to do so after top roping it. Of course now "trad" is more of a "put down" of others than a set of standards. The "Trad" standard of free climbing was start at the bottom work your way up and then lower and pull your rope when you fall. Most climbers find this style far too restrictive but it was certainly the traditional ideal when I started climbing and for a long time after that. Previewing, hanging, cleaning (on aid or via rap) is it cheating? It sure isn't "trad" free climbing style.

 

By the way don’t read this post as a criticism of anyone or the routes as climbs.

 

Edited April 14, 2010 by DCramer

[Sol]

Yeah, i don't know then. I really hate these types of discussions.

 

I started climbing ten years ago, as a Michigan boy, my thoughts on a trad climb is without bolts, you know, using gear. Ground up is rad, but personally I save my ground up FA adventures for the mountains and use the crags for practice, training, etc.

 

So in that case, alot of my sends are weak-sauce, non-trad, poser style, and that's fine with me, cuz im getting stronger each season, and preparing myself for another alpine rock season where I will be going ground up.

 

Off to go climbing now (poser style).

[DCramer]

I am not fond of them either....I did edit my previous post to adding "of free climbing" to the definition. I would add that I have never called any of your TRs weak sauce. I usally climb poser style too...

[stevetimetravlr]

I walked away from Castle in the summer of 1980 and didn't go back. I was climbing there regularly and had taken some folks on upper Castle for a run on some routes, and left my dog in the care of a friend on Logger Ledge. He decided to go down to the parking lot and took my dog. My dog Luke chased a chimpmunk out into the road and was hit by a motorcycle. The cycle skidded but was fine but Luke was killed. I came down to a cop reading me the riot act and laughing about it as he threatened to write me a ticket. I really almost lost it and punched the cop, which for some reason he seemed to be trying to provoke me. I went over to the ditch and found Luke, bloody and covered with ants, and brushed him off and took him home and buried him and haven't climbed there since even though I loved the place. Maybe its time. I still miss Luke.

[ivan]

sorry steve - that sucks way more than someone replacing a fucking ancient bolt!

[Lord_Albert_Winchester]

The companionship of a faithful hound outweighs many of a man's other reationships. Condolences nary soothe the loss, even after the passage of the years.

 

[Choada_Boy]

Dogs love without condition. The best of companions.

[markwebster]

sorry about your loss. But generally, it's a rare dog that can stay mellow and out of trouble when it's owner goes up the cliff and leaves it alone. For that reason, I've never had a dog. Sheesh, my kids were bad enough.

[sobo]

...Maybe its time. I still miss Luke.

Steve,

It is time. Go back to Castle. It's 30 years on now. Climb the same routes that you climbed the day Luke died.

Honor him that way. Peace.

[Sherri]

...Maybe its time. I still miss Luke.

Steve,

It is time. Go back to Castle. It's 30 years on now. Climb the same routes that you climbed the day Luke died.

Honor him that way. Peace.

 

Well said, brother.

[kukuzka1]

thats freakin incredible the motorcycleist didnt crash after hiting your dog. the cop deserved getting laid out but it might of got ya 2-4 months of jail?

[Crillz]

thats freakin incredible the motorcycleist didnt crash after hiting your dog. the cop deserved getting laid out but it might of got ya 2-4 months of jail?

 

Try 2-4 years.

Hopefully you remember the good times!

[stevetimetravlr]

Thank you all for kind words, it was so long ago but not in my mind. Man I loved that dog. The motorcycle did crash, it went down and slid for aways. A guy and gal, they had on leathers and didn't get hurt and though the guys bike was scraped he told the cop he didn't want to file a claim or anything, and he apoligized to me even though it wasn't his fault. He felt bad and it gave me new respect for bikers. The cop was a Grade A asshole. he was making jokes about dead dogs and slamming me and i don't think he realized how close he came to pushing me over the top. I've never lost control before but that time was right on the edge.

It is time I went back to Castle, so hopefully this summer as so many good times there. Leavenworth rocks. Anyone know, did Midnight get closed due to raptor nesting again this year?

[chirp]

sorry about your loss. But generally, it's a rare dog that can stay mellow and out of trouble when it's owner goes up the cliff and leaves it alone. For that reason, I've never had a dog. Sheesh, my kids were bad enough.

 

You really are a tool mark.

 

Condolences Steve, that story really makes me sad.

[summitchaserCJB]

To put this thread back in its rightful place...I went up there a couple days ago to do some roped soloing. The "new" bolt does appear to be new but is about 10 feet up and left of the step across. It's in a weird spot, above some hard looking face climbing. Anyway, thought someone might want to know.

[summitchaserCJB]

Anyone know, did Midnight get closed due to raptor nesting again this year?

As far as I know. The sign indicating the closure is up at the TH. I also read something somewhere about it being a "voluntary" closure or some such. Is that like where the climbers themselves choose to not climb there? I wasn't clear on the language.

FYI- "The current annual mandatory raptor closure at Midnight and Noontime Rocks followed an experimental voluntary closure. Unfortunately, the closure was violated when some climbers climbed directly through the nest site. The Forest Service then went to the current mandatory closure. This closure is usually lifted in mid-July, after the raptors are done nesting."

Edited April 19, 2010 by summitchaserCJB

[charlieburnett]

Funny-

 

You guys are going on and on about a pre-existing bolt being upgraded. Nobody mentioned the scrap yard of old bolts, hangers, holes, glue, engine parts, etc. at the top of Jello tower (look down at your feet when glaring at this (brand new) 5 year old bolt next time).

 

Most of the old bolts and pins in the area were installed because that was the only way to protect there before modern cams were invented. Think: old bolt on the S. Face of Jello Tower. Or, old bolt(s) on classic crack, etc.

 

I think:

It's OK to replace failing/ worn bolts if they were installed there at the time of the first ascent, and cannot be protected nearby with removable gear. This is probably pretty rare.

 

I think the bolts on Old Grey Mare have been replaced recently? If so, that's a pretty good example.

 

 

[charlieburnett]

And, can I please be un-banned now?

 

Profile for Charlie

Member #: 353

Title: old hand

Total Posts: 934

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Registered on: 02/08/01 12:00 PM

 

 

[Crack]

Buddy Lee -where you been?!

[G-spotter]

Free Charlie!

[sobo]

Free Floyd Collins!

 

for those that didn't get the joke...

[charlieburnett]

Buddy Lee -where you been?!

James?