Belay Methods

[gyro]

The other day I went to a climbing wall for the first time in forever and they only allowed the use of BUS belay. I know both BUS and slip-slap-slide, but prefer SSS. I was wondering if this is a common trend switching over to BUS as the exclusive belay method. What do other climbers here use in the field?

[ivan]

my partner is lucky if he ever gets anything more than a hip-belay while i light my cigarrette and search for the most annoying song on my tunebox to blast at him

 

what the hell is a bus belay?

 

if you're actually using a belay device, the main thing is to make sure there's no slack and your brake hand is ready to grab the rope - whatever path gets you to that mecca is good enough

[ivan]

regardless, a climbing wall has little bearing on the outside world - being required to clip into the floor when i weight twice as much as the leader is sillly

[rob]

isn't a bus belay when you make your sister hold up the school bus because you're running back to the house cause you forgot your lunch? My son has been using the bus belay a lot lately.

[gyro]

That is kind of my philosophy, whatever method allows you to brake comfortably.

 

BUS belay:

 

Honestly though, they make it look less comfortable than it normally is, but I still prefer SSS. I'm just interested to see what other climbers are actually using. Areas I've climbed I almost always see SSS, or the ever popular sitting belay on top of beer cooler at the crags.

[kurthicks]

BUS. The old slip-slap-slide is a carryover from the days of Ivan's hip belay...I prefer to see my belayer in a locked off position as much as possible.

[BirdDog]

I've seen this cluster fuck method, er excuse me BUS method, used in the gym. Never knew what is was called, but it looks way more complicated than it needs to be.

[Plaidman]

isn't a bus belay when you make your sister hold up the school bus because you're running back to the house cause you forgot your lunch? My son has been using the bus belay a lot lately.

 

I like that. I like it a lot!

[goatboy]

Nice touch, how the belayer doesn't have her hand on the rope when she tells the climber he's "on belay." Classic.

[rob]

I like how the guy behind her is holding on to her gear loop, for added safety.

[sobo]

I've seen this cluster fuck method, er excuse me BUS method, used in the gym. Never knew what is was called, but it looks way more complicated than it needs to be.

Agreed. I guess what I've been using all these years is the SSS. Never knew that's what it was called, if that's what I'm even doing. In 25+ years of climbing, I've never dropped anyone or had anyone deck while I was belaying them, so I guess I must be doing something right...

 

And before anyone says, "What about Dane?", that one doesn't count, cuz he hadn't placed any pro before he pitched off.

[Bogen]

Yea, I have "discussed" this issue with several gyms over the last few years. BUS method is what the acmg teaches in the climbing instructor program.

 

The reasoning is that there are many people climbing in the gym with little or no experience other than top rope belaying in a gym, combined with the degree of distraction and crowded conditions. BUS allows for more time locked off per cycle, and less room for error. For example, I was bumped rather solidly by two teens horsing around the other day while belaying. While this isn't going to phase anyone who has any degree of adventure climbing, I can see some young gym rat losing his grip on the rope in the same situation.

 

For a number of reasons I stick to the SSS, but have taken to demonstrating the BUS when I have to pass a test in a new gym. I seldom am bothered about using SSS after my test, and usually win the arguement when I am. (I quote what I overheard in one of these instructor instruction courses, ie. better to let advanced climbers stick with what they have already learned.)

[JoeR]

The BUS method can be performed quickly and smoothly with practice, just like the SSS method. I also find it easier to belay using the BUS method with frozen hands or gloves on.

 

BUS is the first method I teach new climbers. If they stick with climbing it seems like they learn the SSS method on their own and apply it occasionally as circumstances require i.e. cramped belay ledge or awkward belay position.

 

the ever popular sitting belay on top of beer cooler at the crags.

I like bringing out the ol' camp chair.. you can even put your feet up on the cooler and bask in the comfort!

[Julian]

I like how the guy behind her is holding on to her gear loop, for added safety.

 

Which is especially funny because if she gets pulled off the ground by a fall that's a great way for her to get taco-ed by her harness and be spitting up blood from a kidney injury.

[eldiente]

Get a GriGri and forget about all this nonsense. New climbers get too hung-up on the process and not the final outcome. The end goal is to keep your partner off the deck, how you do it is up to you.

 

 

[G-spotter]

People still roped climb in gyms

[Bogen]

People still roped climb in gyms

 

Even worse, people that live in Canmore roped climb in gyms...

[kevbone]

Get a GriGri and forget about all this nonsense. New climbers get too hung-up on the process and not the final outcome. The end goal is to keep your partner off the deck, how you do it is up to you.

 

 

Well said. I agree.

[ivan]

Get a GriGri and forget about all this nonsense. New climbers get too hung-up on the process and not the final outcome. The end goal is to keep your partner off the deck, how you do it is up to you.

 

 

Well said. I agree.

very expensive and very heavy and you still need a rap device for multi-pitch - i didn't buy (steal) one 'till i started aid climbing

[Doug]

BUS? Jeezus I belay the way I was taught and hasn't decked anyone yet (that hasn't deserved it anyway). If there as many theories about sex as there are about belay systems the human race would cease to exist.

[billcoe]

The other day I went to a climbing wall for the first time in forever and they only allowed the use of BUS belay. I know both BUS and slip-slap-slide, but prefer SSS. I was wondering if this is a common trend switching over to BUS as the exclusive belay method. What do other climbers here use in the field?

 

Come on, you just made all that shit up....didn' ya?

 

 

[Julian]

Get a GriGri and forget about all this nonsense. New climbers get too hung-up on the process and not the final outcome. The end goal is to keep your partner off the deck, how you do it is up to you.

 

 

The GriGri is for people who do nothing but single-pitch cragging and don't know how to tie off a climber and initiate a rescue scenario. People learning how to belay on a GriGri just leads to laziness and bad habits.

[gyro]

The other day I went to a climbing wall for the first time in forever and they only allowed the use of BUS belay. I know both BUS and slip-slap-slide, but prefer SSS. I was wondering if this is a common trend switching over to BUS as the exclusive belay method. What do other climbers here use in the field?

 

Come on, you just made all that shit up....didn' ya?

 

No, went to check out a place that was offering training in setting up a top rope rescue, checked it and and they only allow BUS belaying at their wall and in all their classes.

 

Thanks for confirming what I've known about the internet though; I could post that I had cheerios for breakfast and some a-hole would yell "Fake!".

[davidk]

Get a GriGri and forget about all this nonsense. New climbers get too hung-up on the process and not the final outcome. The end goal is to keep your partner off the deck, how you do it is up to you.

 

 

The GriGri is for people who do nothing but single-pitch cragging and don't know how to tie off a climber and initiate a rescue scenario. People learning how to belay on a GriGri just leads to laziness and bad habits.

 

Exactly. I have witnessed some appalling belay habits that were developed from learning and practicing on a GriGri in the gym.

 

Personally, I guess I use a combo of slip-slap-slide (with brake palm DOWN) and brake-under-slide. Situation, posture, and space dictate which method I choose. If I used the BUS belay all the time I think I would develop a serious hunchback.

[Rafael_H]

Hmmm, that BUS is pretty cool. Wear wrist weights and add squats to that - a prety good workout!