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Everything posted by JoeR

  1. Guillotine has a small bird nest with chicks in it. Please do not climb it until August. Thank you for respecting this voluntary closure. :Edit Please stay off of Pool Guy as well.
  2. Moolack news from today 6/4/13

    Ok, So it seems people feel pretty strongly on this. I hope this post helps some of you to relax. This is a posting of a voluntary closure of two routes at an obscure crag. The closure reflects the ethic of environmental stewardship at this crag and is more of a "Hey guys, some birds are trying to raise a family, so please be aware and leave them be" than some hardass official closure. I agreed with my partner's view on this closure and so posted it up at his request to spread the word. By all means, if anyone makes it out to Moolack earlier or more often than I do, and can check on the nest without disturbing these birds then please do so. I'll be up there again next week at the latest. If the information that Greg and Alastair have posted up is correct, then I'll be posting up that Pool Guy and Guillotine are back open. And really, this is just one of the ways that climber self-management can look. It's just not too hard to close 2 routes at a place with so many. Wildlife is cool.
  3. Normalization of Deviance

    Thank you for sharing. Informative and relevant.
  4. Moolack news from today 6/4/13

    Good to know Alasdair.
  5. Moolack news from today 6/4/13

    Small birdies and nest. Between seeing the chicks, nest, and parents we know it's not falcons. I'm no ornithologist so I won't venture a guess as to species, but I definitely see a lot of this bird around.
  6. Shark leader for wire cut down and press/hammer down a nickel for the swage. mischief managed
  7. Looks like Big Fun with an awesome view. Thanks for posting up.
  8. What a horrifying way to die. Let's hope those killer bees don't make it any further north.
  9. Congrats to Drew

    I'm excited to see the years to come. To Bolt is such a classic. To have committed to put in the work needed to nail all 105 or so moves is amazing for anyone, let alone a young dude. I work with young people for a living, and I have to say that I'm impressed with Drew and crew socially as well. In my limited interaction with this group they have been consistently polite and helpful, quieting down when asked and generally self-managing. Young people with these skills are rare, and everyone involved should be proud.
  10. Greg Mortenson - again

    Krakauer isn't content with just making his fame by dragging people through the mud, he has to hold them down and fart on their heads as well. In my dreams someone gives Krakauer a taste of his own medicine. If only he would do something noteworthy we'd have a chance to see it happen.
  11. Wilderness First Responder class

    I just took my WFR over 10 days during Spring break from Wilderness Medical Institute(NOLS) If you just want a cert, then a short non-intensive class might be for you. The longer the class, the more opportunities you'll have to learn and apply your knowledge through scenarios. Much of the curriculum is set up for outdoor professionals working with groups in some fashion, with just a bit on being a solo rescuer. Other options which are super good if you don't need the WFR cert for a job are the Wilderness First Aid and Wilderness Advanced First Aid classes. Much more affordable and less time commitment. Good luck
  12. First Kiss is usually closed for Prairie Falcons, not eagles. Interesting bird, but far from threatened or endangered. There are tons of them around. #1 bird taken by falconers because they are so numerous. I'm still not sure why they close the cliff for them, but please respect the closure. The bird people have a much stronger lobby than climbers do.
  13. First Trad Rack!

    Pretty often I find myself wishing that I bought gas instead of gear. Sitting at home staring at gear just ain't as fun for me as climbing and wishing I had more gear. I can understand wanting to have your own shiny rack, but there are so many people out there with tons of gear sitting around. Borrowing is a great way to get a feel for what you want to drop the coin on when you finally do. Without posting what kind of budget you're working with and what kind of routes you're climbing it is really hard to give good recommendations. Though if money isn't an issue then no worries eh?
  14. Hi guys, Anyone got beta on the crack immediately right of Satisfaction. I'm not talking about Crack-a-no-go, which is left of LD afaik. Thanks
  15. Smith Rock - April 13th and 14th

    I should be there with a group. I'll talk to the others about you. We'll probably be staying in the Bivy and could run into each other there. Don't depend on us, but it might be a possibility. Good luck.
  16. Gear storage system

    It really depends on what kind of gear you're organizing, if you're wanting to spend money, and what kind of trips you're taking. Plastic bins are great for keeping your rarely used specialty gear fresh. Just make sure to get the bins with the burping seal. They also look like Christmas to thieves looking around the back seat of your car/van. When I used bins to head back and forth to the crag, I found myself taking way more crap than I needed. Then just worrying about it getting stolen while I climbed. I use bags mostly now, with some stuff just perma-packed up since there is no use unpacking if I'm just headed out again in a couple days. I've seen some nice rack systems and pegboard stuff if you're into explaining to houseguests what all the stuff is for. Post pics on Facebook and MP for bonus points in gear whoring. Racks make it really easy to get in there and fondle your equipment. The best organizers seem to figure out a system which best meets their specific needs and the vehicle they find themselves in. Post up a little more specifics and I'm sure you'll get some ideas and pictures of gear closets.
  17. Rope soloing is chewing up my beater rope too fast. Column's first, gym maybe, then who knows. Have your own gear and know how to belay. The grade you climb doesn't matter to me. Just don't get pissy if I do/don't pull down harder than you. I'm cool with belay-slaving if you are. Afternoons are best, but my schedule is flexible. I'm at Skinner's Butte pretty often. Crux sometimes, depending on weather and budget. If you see a redheaded dude, it is probably me. Feel free to introduce yourself. Also, I try to check my pm's on this site every few days or so.
  18. As some of you may know, stabilization work is currently being done @ the Columns. For this phase there is only a partial closure. When this work is completed we will be moving on to the next phase which will include a closure of the entire Columns+parking lot. The dates scheduled for this phase are September 22 through September 30, and of course all construction schedules are subject to change. The overall idea is to stabilize the shifting climbing columns as much as possible, as well as clear off some of the loose stuff to the right of Limpdick. This area will be rescreened and the goal is to reopen the entire columns for climbing, much like it was before the big slide a couple winters ago. Any questions can be sent to Roger Bailey at The River House 541-682-6323 or posted here and I will make sure they get where they need to go.
  19. Skinner's Butte Update

    Skinner Butte Columns closed this week for construction - spread the word. The columns will be closed this Thursday, Friday October 11, 12 and Monday - Wednesday October 15-17. Loose rocks will be removed and the screen re-attached.
  20. BOLTS!!!!

    This thread is just getting weirder by the minute. I like this trend. On topic, I liked the triangle better without the dude in it. I'm guessing you brought this topic up for guidebook related porpoises?
  21. Dave MacCleod dropped

    Dave wears a helmet a ton in his movie E11. I'd like to see how a helmet would have protected his foot.
  22. Best Way to learn how to Aid

    [video:youtube] But really though, it is best to learn how to aid before you head up the pioneer route please. The bolt ladder is the chokepoint for a couple popular routes. It always sucks to head out early to do West face variation and get stuck behind a slow party heading in from the notch.
  23. Rookie Stripes

    Thanks for taking that stuff down Drederek. How many french flowers didja find along the way?
  24. Stickclipping BBQ the Pope at Smith

    Isn't it the 3rd bolt that gives the potential groundfall if you try to clip too far above your head and blow it?
  25. KIDS/PARENTS -- this is a trial

    I work with kids, teens, and adults constantly helping them get on harnesses, in both rock climbing and ropes course situations. Why so defensive? It is just a harness for climbing. How does my opinion have anything do to with you exactly? Please don't answer here so this thread isn't destroyed. Climbing gear, the new Apple products.