Belay Jackets?

[Dane]

One of the bigger retailers just sent me a Arcteryx Dually @ 499, Norrøna Lyngen $378, the newest Patagonia DAS @ $300 and a Mtn Hardware Compressor Hoody @190. The idea is to make a direct comparison to the $265 Eddier Bauer XV and directly against one another.

 

I am going to try to get Feathered Friends to loan me a Front Point @ $429, Wild Things to chip in a Belay Jacket @ $295 and Marmot to loan me a Mammut hooded Ambler @$300.

 

Any other jacket that you think should be compared I am missing?

 

Anyone interested in pictures and the details of my observations?

 

 

[letsroll]

Dane,

 

sounds like you have it all covered. And yes I am interested. Even if I am going to pick up the Compressor Hoody no matter what. Will get a good price. But prior to that I was always checking out the Wild things products for synth belay jacket.

 

have fun with your project.

[underworld]

does OR still make one? i've had an OR 'belay jacket' for several years now...tuff as nails!

 

 

[Pilchuck71]

Yes OR still makes one.

I do not know the model of it but I bought one about 6 months ago and have been very happy with it.

Primaloft, weather resistant, built in hood, very warm.

$150.00

[montypiton]

sounds like a good project! I'll be interested to see your opinions. Personally, I'd like to see more down-filled models in the mix -- but that's just me. Having decades of experience with down, I'm willing to put up with the risk of getting it wet, and the extra precautions I need to take to keep it dry in warm/wet conditions... currently, I have a 1970s vintage Holubar Colorado Parka that I use in subzero conditions, and a Marmot Zeus jacket that, at 12-oz, is more efficient for the closer to freezing temps. If its warm enough to rain, I just layer up in fleece because the primaloft jacket I bought a couple of years ago didn't survive my epic last June. Note that the Marmot Zeus has no hood. I don't really miss it because I usually carry a light balaclava and full warm hat. no hood might be a dealbreaker for some, but it isn't for me. Still, I'd like to see a few more down versions in your test mix. Also, the Montbell brand appears to be missing - and they have several tops, both primaloft and down, that I'd like to see in your comparison. How about including at least one down and one synthetic Montbell item?

 

-Curt

[ryanb]

Agreed on montbell, I have one of their old down coats and my girl friend has the thermawrap parka and they are both really solid LIGHT pieces that cost way less then the equivalents. though I think they use their own insulation that sounds similar to primaloft 1:

 

"Exceloft insulation uses 8-denier polyester threads as a structure to intertwine with extra thin 0.7-denier threads that add more air pockets and resilience. As a result, Exceloft products rival the warmth and weight of down products. Exceloft excels in wet conditions: because the fibers used in Exceloft retain less than 1% of their weight in water, Exceloft will keep you warm even when wet."

 

from http://www.montbell.us/products/techinfo/material/

 

Also be aware that they use japanese sizing.

[billcoe]

Hi Dane, can we get your review posted in the Gear review section of CC.com or someplace semi-accessible and permanent?

[Dane]

Thanks guys project is in the works.

 

Hey Bill, I have several reviews but couldn't get what I wanted up on CC.com blog. Still working on it to learn the format.

 

Your Smith guide is a hard act to follow

[JosephH]

Will enjoy reading that one myself. I went round and round between the Montbell and Mtn Hardware before setttling on the Compressor - really like all the Montbell stuff I have.

[zeroforhire]

I am sure there are some parkas from MEC that would be great to test out.

[tiaga]

How about tossing in the North Face Redpoint Optimus?

 

http://www.thenorthface.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=38581&storeId=207&catalogId=10201&langId=-1&from=subCat&parent_category_rn=11702&variationId=04H

 

I just picked one up on sale and it seems to have much in common, though a few ounces heavier, with the Compressor and the Atom.

 

Edited January 16, 2010 by tiaga

[PeakDream]

How about Millet Belay Device jacket?

[montypiton]

just picked up a PAIR of Marmot Cauldrons on Steep and Cheap for $59 apiece. couldn't resist, so got one for me, and one for my son. I'll let ya know once I've put one through its paces, but it looks to be a good wet-weather puffy, and at that price, could turn out to be just a townie jacket without makin' me feel bad...

 

-Curt

[Dane]

I ended up with jackets for 2 in depth reviews. Basically bivy jackets and lighter belay jackets.

 

 

[rocketparrotlet]

EMS jackets? I got one at Second Ascent for $60 and I love it.

 

Here's the only picture I have posted (I'm the one in the fatty orange belay jacket): http://www.summitpost.org/image/588622//on-belay.html

 

-Mark

[syudla]

Rab and PHD

[Dane]

Rab and PHD

 

I'd sure like too! Rab may happen now that they have a US warehose.

[Jon H]

The Marmot GrandMontet is on SteepAndCheap right now - big red puffy belay jacket for only $159. Get it while you can!

[brandonmc]

what i do know is that my front point jacket is too warm. Worked out nice when i was not climbing and was stopped for a break. But even unzipped at 0 degrees on rainier last year it was too warm to wear while climbing. Definitely made for really cold weather climbing. Just my 2 cents. Ps if feathered friends wont let you borrow one you can borrow mine. Give me a call Dane

206-940-1652

Brandon

Edited January 22, 2010 by brandonmc

[Dannible]

what i do know is that my front point jacket is too warm. Worked out nice when i was not climbing and was stopped for a break. But even unzipped at 0 degrees on rainier last year it was too warm to wear while climbing.

 

Thats how a belay jacket should be. They aren't meant for long periods of movement, just for when you are resting or belaying unless it's really cold.

 

I'm completly sold on the Mammut Stratus hooded jacket. Weighs 2 pounds and has kept me warm through sub zero montana winter climbing and a lot of cold damp cascade climbing. Almost two years of very heavy use (three winters because I spent one of our summers in Peru) and I'm just now starting to want a new one.

[Water]

MAMMUT stratus on sale for 152 at STP. look around and you can find an additional 15-20% off that + free shipping.

all sizes but M, must be willing to wear jacket color that makes you lose your appetite.

http://www.sierratradingpost.com/Product.aspx?baseno=44776&plp=Mammut_Stratus_Insulated_Hooded_Jacket_-_For_Men http://www.sierratradingpost.com/Product.aspx?baseno=44776&plp=Mammut_Stratus_Insulated_Hooded_Jacket_-_For_Men