tiaga

Colin Haley update from the Wildsnow Denali blog reporting on the 17th. Quoting Lou Dawson: "When we got to camp yesterday, alpinists Colin and Bjorn were two days overdue from getting a new route done on Mount Foraker. Base camp manager had watched them summit, then after that, no news. Thank God they stumbled in early this morning after battling their way through the storm. Colin got fairly severe frostbite on his toes, Bjorn looks a bit skeleton-like, but the two are alive." http://www.wildsnow.com/3303/kahiltna-denali-camp/ Amazing. Wishing the boys all the best.

Colin Haley and Bjorn-Eivind Artun are reported to have completed a 17 hr. tour of the Cassin Ridge. Sounds like a good trip, in spite of major snow and a dead stove. Early report just posted on Lou Dawson's Wildsnow BC Ski Blog by satellite. He tented next to them on the upper Kahiltna this week. http://www.wildsnow.com/3278/colin-haley/

So much depends upon your own foot shape, the particular last used and I'm finding now, even in the newer liner materials. I'm a 44 in the Scarpa Charmoz, A 44.5 in the red Trango Evo GTX's, which through long use and wear seem minimum fit. When Amazon recently had some selection in their $187 spin-off of the Phantom Lites, just on spec I bought a 43 & a 44. Turns out the 43's are a great technical fit with a thin SmtWl liner sock. The 44's are great relaxed with one big sock. A big influence on the fit of Phantom Lite (and perhaps the new lighter Phantom guide?) seems to be the quilted Primaloft1 insulation. If I'd done a quick try-on in a shop, I'd have thought them too small, tight. But, after 30 minutes or so on my foot, the quilted Primaloft seems to conform, and conform well. I'm talking toe wiggle room, the whole deal. This contrasts with everything I'd read about fitting this boot, the 2009 Phantom lite, as in "go one size larger". Not the case at all for me. As always, the proofs in the wearing. you've got to put them on for a while and see what happens.

Here's a 38 in the older Phantom lite. They are a great boot also. 187.00 delivered, with all the specials. http://www.amazon.com/SCARPA-Mens-Phantom-Lite-Mountaineering/dp/B001RTTJ6Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=shoes&qid=1273976311&sr=1-1

Thanks for the great eye-candy Dane! When do these hit the fan? Any coming home with you as after-show swag??

How about tossing in the North Face Redpoint Optimus? http://www.thenorthface.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=38581&storeId=207&catalogId=10201&langId=-1&from=subCat&parent_category_rn=11702&variationId=04H I just picked one up on sale and it seems to have much in common, though a few ounces heavier, with the Compressor and the Atom.

Looking for adze or hammer versions. If you've got one hanging around, please PM me!

I'm loving owner of one reeking Early Winters Omnipotent (#102). Back in it's youth it spent 2 seasons high in the Alaska Range occupied by myself and other souls who didn't change their long johns for weeks on end. And that's what it still smells like: extremely rancid polyprop. underwear! Other than burning it, does anyone have suggestions for detoxification of an otherwise beautiful tent. I'd love to have it back to Omni, but less potent. Thank you so much for any ideas!!!

Three pair of leather Lowa Civetta alpine boots, sizes 5 1/2, 6 (7 and 7 1/2 womens) and 9 1/2. All in as new to excellent condition. Meduim heavy style, full shank, hinged heel. In the smaller sizes they are super rigid. This was Lowa's top end single boot in the '70's and '80's. If they'll work for you, they're $35.00 a pair.

Thanks jhamaker! Great info - that helps a lot!

Thanks for the input! I know, looks kinda bare, even today with the new dusting. Met a couple in the parking lot at Si last Sat. that said they just been up and it was great. The local mtn. shops and the USFS tell me that 1/2 the Mtn. might ready to come down. Any more first hand beta out there? Thanks for reading and for any comments.

Anyone been on Granite Mountian this past weeK. I've been hearing conflicting reports, from a spring walk to a terminal avalanche ready bale off the SW ridge. If you'v been there, what's the story. What snow conditions did you run into? Thanks!!!

I've heard that on the Matterhorn's Hornli Ridge local Zermatt guides are give a head start over all other parties in leaving the hut. Is this true? I've been shoping for a guide service and this gives me some concern when thinking about hiring a service from outside of Zermatt. Thanks for you help!

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Back in '75 in prepartion for our McKinley Trip, Washburn spent an entire day with some of my pardners, going over his photographs and relating advice from his own experiences. What a gentleman. God Speed.

I shared a snow cave on Rainier with Eric in '75 and thought then that he was a great kid. He's had quite a career. Thanks for your input. Taiga

Thank you all for your input. I think my friends will do fine as guided clients on the Hornli Ridge. I'd just like to see that they have their best Matterhorn trip. Thanks again, Tiaga

I know I'm being too kind. Poor leadership skills seem to be a prerequisite for Seattle Mayors of late, as well as other city posts - and King County Executive, for that matter. There are some sharp tools out there, but no one is electing them.

Mayor Nickol is just blowing the political "smoke of the week". The only thing he and his advisor minions give a crap about is re-election.

Well, has anyone had any experience with International Mountain Guides, Inc.? Eric Simonsen and company? ?? ?

Got a friend who's considering IMG's Matterhorn trip. Does anyone here have experience with IMG's European itinerary?