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kevbone
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We might be talking about different Kenny's.

There is Lost Cam Kenny and Crazy Kenny Jim O.'s friend.

I am talking about older Crazy Kenny that just got back from Colorado.

 

 

yup.

 

Sitting down upper left, black hair. this picture was 1997.

groupledge_beacon.JPG

who is the dork hippy bitch?? is that your wife, kev?

 

 

That only happened once. :wave:

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Hey Off, it's Ujahn on Lost Warriors!!! Woot! I just talked to him. Dudes working too hard to climb anything and we're going to Red Rocks in about a week. We decided to do the pussy tour and do easy routes, except that Bryan Schmidt will be showing up and he's into hard cracks these days. So if one of us doesn't sack up, he's going to get short shift. I think it's a continuation of the "it sucks to get old and busy tour" I was starting last week.

 

Joesph, ya got to clean your route off or folks from Washington will be thinking poorly of our housekeeping.

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Oh, you're right, it's Lost Warriors, I misread Bill Coe's caption. Still, that's some classic climbing. Woot! Bringing home the Beacon.

 

Plab.

The SE flank of Beacon has a rough p2 band you have to climb through, but the climbing on the rest of LW is pure gold going up the true upper line of the SE corner structure and through the biggest roof on it. Like YW, it has a great diversity of climbing on it, though more demanding and technical. P2 is cleaned more than well enough to climb it and if you aren't prepared to feel like you're doing seriously different then you shouldn't be up there to begin with. Bill, did you take that shot?

 

Here is the line of upper LW with the red dot approximately where Ujahn is in the photo above. The new line Menopause goes up the actual skyline to the right in this photo and you can see the rap lines from its high anchor down and right (and the photo is tipped a fair amount to the left from reality).

 

Line_of_Young_Warriors.jpg

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We might be talking about different Kenny's.

There is Lost Cam Kenny and Crazy Kenny Jim O.'s friend.

I am talking about older Crazy Kenny that just got back from Colorado.

 

 

yup.

 

Sitting down upper left, black hair. this picture was 1997.

groupledge_beacon.JPG

the funny thing about crazy kenny - as is plenty clear in this picture - is that if you are not talking to him then nothing else exists in the world and he might as well be alone! did he even realize that this picture was being taken or was he talking to himself about how nutritious coffee is? Who took this pic kev? I saw a print of it over at Jim's place a couple of weeks ago - you and Arndt look like flippin teenagers :laf:

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The bottom red dot on the lower edge of the photo corresponds to the high p2 (formerly p3) anchor,

the upper red dot our high point out at and [vaguely - like half a body] over the lip of the roof. Leaving

the high anchor is pretty serious business because of the technical nature of the pro and the moves

themselves as well as due to the amount you trend right out to the lip. I took a 40-50 footer from the lip

and had a pretty arduous time trying to get back to the anchor. Turning the lip is pretty airy as you've

gone right so far you're now about 285' straight to the deck. Once we have an anchor up above the roof the

only way to come down will be with a fixed line between p3 and p4 or two ropes tied together to the deck.

 

East_Face_Closure_Line.jpg

 

You rap off the end of two 60's in this lower picture and it's a dead straight drop from the high

anchor to the spot where you stand to start 'Rythmn Method'. All in all it's a pretty entertaining and

interesting p2 up to the high anchor (first done in two pitches, now one) and makes for a nice

climb in its own right, but I wouldn't recommend leaving that anchor unless you are absolutely dead serious

about it all and prepared to deal with some pretty big (potentially car-size) loose blocks.

 

 

RT_P2_Horizontal.JPG

 

Note: If anyone does head up there, the p1 anchor for Menopause is NOT the double-bolted Rhythmn Method anchor,

but rather above it up a ways where the yellow dot is. Sling the Rythmn Method anchor long, and then head right

about 20', then up about 30' to a pedestal on your left with a single bolt (a replaced original Coe bolt)

and setup an anchor there - I use the bolt, a #3 Ballnut, and a black Metolius to build the p1 anchor.

 

Menopause_p1_anchor_cc-sized.jpg

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OMG. I swear that I'm gonna have my Adams Apple surgically removed so that when I see shit like that my balls have room to move right on up to my throat.

 

 

 

Nice job.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We need to get this on another page since OW messed up the formating with that large pic.

 

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I just have to say it scares the crap out of me to contemplate going up thru those hanging blocks. That has got to be some freaky exploratory climbing you guys are doing.

Today I didn't see anyone climbing there or anywhere except Jim O and party hiking out below us. Man it was windy. At one point I had to lock both hands in the crack and pull myself in and hold on for like a minute as I thought the wind was going to tear me off. Wild day with Rick H.

Edited by stevetimetravlr
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We need to get this on another page since OW messed up the formating with that large pic.

 

Its already a page back on my machine, set your page count to 25 posts per page.

 

Who uploaded such a huge picture to the cc.com gallery anyway?

 

Ya'll are right though, Young Warriors looks much nicer than those first two scruffy pitches of Lost Warriors.

 

4479brie_youngw.JPG

 

 

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