Jump to content



Recommended Posts

i've been up there w/ you, remember? :)

Up to the high anchor, yes. And I did and do immensely appreciate your, Jimmy O., Mike Reddig, Jim Anglin,

Bill, and Hanmi's help in getting me up to that high anchor. But casting off from there for those roofs

is a whole different Twilight Zone / altered state and probably will be until this baby is put to bed.

Overall, the hardest moves on Lost Warriors are simple, safe, easy, and well protected by comparison.

If I were aiding this thing then I'd be after you all the time, but it's not - though I have no doubt

at all that if you twisted your knickers slightly in the opposite direction you'd be a free climbing fool.











Edited by JosephH
Link to comment
Share on other sites

maybe u shouldn't let ur partner read this post... dude, me and my buddy drug some dude up

aurora and pulled it off in 48 hours and the guy never had been 200 ft off the ground prior and my buddy

got sick from bat shit in the bat cave and i got bat shit in my eyes and ended up leading almost the

whole route and all we had to eat was chocolate covered espresso beans and little bit of water and your

way better of a climber than i am and i understand it's scetchy freeclimbing but i was taking whippers

at like 3am while my buddies were sitting on some brits ledge by the name of kirkpatrick and i hadn't

slept two days prior to that cause i my frind larrys dad was dying and had to take him to san fran and

hurried back to the valley cause i was worried about my gear at the base of aurora and bumped inot my

buddy and we started the route at like 6pm and it was october and smokey cause they were doing controlled

burns in the tress and that didnt help the fact that my eyes lids felt like 30 grit sandpaper form bat

shit. it was frickin miserable and led all the cruxes at night casue thats how it worked out but like i

said ur way more badass than i am and think u should just go fire that thing after a month of constant

climbing at beacon ignoring all politics and route cleaning and anchor replacemnts and all other jive

that is keeping u from finishing your new special route :grin:

Shouldn't you end that with, "Just saying..."


P.S. All that other work is done for the most part other than a few niggling spots I need to get

Ivan to take care of...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the pics with lines but especially that bottom picture of Anglin JH.


Whats the kids name who freed that roof on the far side of Ozone. He came out for a day with Jim Ujahn and I and really impressed us with his good temperament and general character, not just that he was sickly strong which I generally don't give a damn about in my partners. I don't know if he might have some holes in his knowledge being so young and all, but he'd be on my short list along with the folks you mention. Based on his attitude, I'd tie in any day with him.


Nice to see everyone rooting for you for a change too. Good luck with the broken finger and your winter training Joseph. There's a reason why every climber at Beacon Rock has walked past this line and not ever tried it. Be careful.



ps, nice to see someone else fixated on a line. I spent my entire winter dreaming of one, it finally fell in September. I'm still in a happy, crazy, ecstatic daze over it.


...and Pink, there's no penalty for adding a Period or 2 in your paragraphs! Aurora in 48 hours? Holy crap, thats a smokin time......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah, yeah forgot about him, think I have a # for him. Could be a good option as well depending on his trad comfort level. And, believe me, any encouragement is welcome, even pink's route-mothering, and he's right about needing to just stay after it next year.


I am sure Brad would love to come down from Index to give it a go. There really is no one better who knows rope craft and big wall experience around than Brad.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So you had another ***** parade on that hold below the slab again i heard? how did your finger hold up on that outing, joe?




PS, Kenny, it's this finger I believe. LOL!!



maybe on this hand though....



:lmao: Take care dude!

Edited by billcoe
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Glue? Sounds like the opposite of "leave no trace".

the same applies to bolts, kev. or fixed pins, or anything anyone has to bail off of or leave behind because they can't get it out...



That is correct Kenny. But coming from guys who preach no bolts and leave no trace....seems messed up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Glue? Sounds like the opposite of "leave no trace".

the same applies to bolts, kev. or fixed pins, or anything anyone has to bail off of or leave behind because they can't get it out...

That is correct Kenny. But coming from guys who preach no bolts and leave no trace....seems messed up.


Its not messed up... it needed to be done if the pitch was going to be preserved in the way we all know it. The move there was going to get a bit more difficult once that hold is gone and most people commit their entire weight to it when they are on that pitch. It is even more of a concern for those who solo the corner. Securing that hold as best as is possible could only be done by someone who had a real idea of how it is being loosened, and it just happened to be joe who knew how to do it. If I knew more about gluing i would have done it too, but i just didn't feel comfortable trying to do it. I would have made a huge mess with the stuff, so be glad that joe went out there to do it. For that matter be glad joe even bothers to do anything out there - most of the anchors and webbing out there are there and maintained because joe puts in the time. Its not like he's drinking a latte and leaving the empty cup over the top of the horn...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ah - i grasp what must have transpired - can't say that i'm offended, it's a trade-route that's being preserved, and yah, i solo on it enough that, even though i alwasy feel i have it wired such that i can recover from a blown hold w/o death, i'm okay w/ knowing its glued - i'd be more interested in its maintainence schedule at this point - what is it?


i look forward to seeing n' yarding on it, though in part its pure personal escapism at the moment - so long as it not gross or obvious looking and doesn't actually accelerate the harm it seeks to prevent, good work!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...