Jump to content

Beacon


kevbone
 Share

Recommended Posts

Getting back to the discussion of Little Wing at Beacon. Its a good climb and has that one section, but I think Aries at the Town wall is stouter for a 5.8. Anyone second that notion? Its not hard by Index standards, but right off the start offwidth move or two that gets the blood pumping and is kind of physical if you're not warmed up. Then a second crux in the thin fingers crack up above, finger lockers with nothing for feet, so just yard thru it. Second pitch is flaring chimney with crack in back and then undercling at the top.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have always thought the slabby crux just before hitting yosy ledge felt like 10.a to me. Alot of folks get shut down there....or at least hesitate.
I always thought that too, as do most people I've asked. However, last year I found a way to work a bit higher with the hands that make it 5.9, at least for me anyway. If I don't use that hold and go out way right for the insecure slabby move, it's feels very 10a.

 

I love Jill's but if you fall at the crux, odds are good for rolling/breaking an ankle on the bulge below so it's never a gimme in my book.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I also really like that 5.10ish fingery thing off of Yos Ledge, just left of the rap anchors. What is that again? Crazy Horse?

 

 

Yes....crazy horse. That is the second pitch. I think that is 5.9.

 

The way Jim describes it is to lead is 10.a and to top rope it, it is 5.9.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I also really like that 5.10ish fingery thing off of Yos Ledge, just left of the rap anchors. What is that again? Crazy Horse?

 

 

Yes....crazy horse. That is the second pitch. I think that is 5.9.

 

The way Jim describes it is to lead is 10.a and to top rope it, it is 5.9.

I agree with Jim, it is a bit heady on lead till you get past the crux, feels 10a to me.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is Crazy Horse that thin fingers crack 15 feet to the left of Jills on the last pitch? Has anyone done the crack where you traverse out of the crack right on the second pitch of Blownout to another crack? I can't remember the name but it looks wild.
Seems like Fargo (Nate) got on that last year but maybe I'm thinking of a different line that comes off a different route.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...