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Beacon


kevbone
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I can't wait to go climbing at Beacon so I can diss on it from personal experience.

I can't wait for you to go climb at beacon so i can piss on you from land of the little people.

 

 

ya know i'd say i've climbed enough stuff and enough places through out the years to say that beacon is a great place to have for a local crag and a sweet training ground for bigger and better stuff.

 

 

please just stay up north cause beacon really doesn't need the snobby seattle vibe...

 

 

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Went out this afternoon. Windy, but surprisingly warm. Stopped momentarily to pay my respects to Menopause -

it's now like a shadow hanging over me every time I go out there and made the broken finger suddenly start

throbbing just looking at it. After not climbing for five weeks or so it's surprising how little changed

physically yet how much changed psychologically. Too much time robotically staring at the screen...

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go fire that thing man... u need a motivated belay slave dude

Wish it were that simple. Even the belaying is pretty fucking techical and attempting to second

the third pitch will also be sketch as there will likely be no going down after a fall and also

maybe no being able to get back on the rock. The likely result of falling off the roof after

cleaning the last piece will be swinging in space and jugging on the belay. Makes establishing

a good anchor up there all the more of a priority.

 

But a 'ringer' has just moved to PDX from Bend and I'll give a shot at talking him into it next year.

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Like I said, wish it were that simple - but it's deadly serious up there between the pro, moves,

and logistics of the pitch. I've done the lead up to the roof five times now, am the only one that's

led it at this point, and it's a bit of a horror show each time I let more than a week go between goes.

And definitely not something you want to do in the cold. My main problem has been partners. Shane was

great when he stepped up, as he's into hard trad and way into roofs; but, he moved away for work and

haven't gotten any other takers yet.

 

Hopefully I'll get Arent, the new guy, Tyler, and / or Tymun up there next year as any of the

four would likely work out fine. But I'm not going up there without someone who's not only totally solid,

but also totally psyched at the idea of it. Too dangerous otherwise. I'd head up there with you or Arent,

but you aren't around and Arent hasn't checked it out yet.

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dude, bigger and chossier things have been accomplished in very short periods of time. ur a strong climber with a good head, i truly think u r overthinkin that thing for how smart and capable u r.

word.

 

and how much iq does a belayer need to jug a rope if he can't climb it? you shouldn't be putting up a route w/ bullshit anchors if that's the problem.

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dude, bigger and chossier things have been accomplished in very short periods of time.

ur a strong climber with a good head, i truly think u r overthinkin that thing for how smart and capable u r.

word.

 

and how much iq does a belayer need to jug a rope if he can't climb it? you shouldn't be putting up a

route w/ bullshit anchors if that's the problem.

In this case I'll take all the IQ I can get. The high anchor is 1/2" x 8" with heavy rap hangers, that isn't

the problem. The problem is the climbing is technical and delicate, the rock is delicate, and the pro is delicate.

Think blocks between the size of a Prius and UPS van split down the middle that you're climbing on and protecting

behind which are more or less hung on the wall, but with a split plane between them and the wall. It's not a

nice approach up to the roof even if once at the base of it goes back from tuft to normal Beacon rock. Also,

I'm not going up there with anyone not capable of freeing the route with me - too much seperation of motivations,

incentives, and concerns - a jugornot just wouldn't be in 'tune' with the vibe and also likely not scared enough.

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maybe u shouldn't let ur partner read this post... dude, me and my buddy drug some dude up aurora and pulled it off in 48 hours and the guy never had been 200 ft off the ground prior and my buddy got sick from bat shit in the bat cave and i got bat shit in my eyes and ended up leading almost the whole route and all we had to eat was chocolate covered espresso beans and little bit of water and your way better of a climber than i am and i understand it's scetchy freeclimbing but i was taking whippers at like 3am while my buddies were sitting on some brits ledge by the name of kirkpatrick and i hadn't slept two days prior to that cause i my frind larrys dad was dying and had to take him to san fran and hurried back to the valley cause i was worried about my gear at the base of aurora and bumped inot my buddy and we started the route at like 6pm and it was october and smokey cause they were doing controlled burns in the tress and that didnt help the fact that my eyes lids felt like 30 grit sandpaper form bat shit. it was frickin miserable and led all the cruxes at night casue thats how it worked out but like i said ur way more badass than i am and think u should just go fire that thing after a month of constant climbing at beacon ignoring all politics and route cleaning and anchor replacemnts and all othe rjive that is keeping u from finishing your new special route :grin:

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