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If an earthquake hit the Columbia, and Bacon Walk fell into the river, the amount of quality Portland climbing might decrease but the overall quality of Washington rock would probably increase somewhat...

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Edited by LostCamKenny

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Very fine day at Beacon today. Not a breath of wind, great temps, and the rock was pretty dry. YW and Crusing looked wet still. SE Corner with the wife was great and did last pitch by headlamp,it gets dark at 5:30 now. Saw Jim O in the parking lot, but didn't hear anyone else on the rock after the first pitch.
We got worked over on Dod's, but nice to be out on a day like today, even if I did get spanked.

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I on-sighted the route from the parking lot to the summit. Free solo, none the less!

 

 

Are you saying you have free soloed YW's?

Free soloing YW would be pretty balzy, let alone on-sight free solo. So no, I have NOT soloed YW and that is not at all what I said.

 

Have you?

 

Has anyone?

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Right Gull, Right Gull!!!
Right Gull is OK, but far from my favorite.

No one asked you if it was your fav, homeboy :poke:

I think I smell your bacon burning, better STFU and go check on it...

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Right Gull, Right Gull!!!
Right Gull is OK, but far from my favorite.

No one asked you if it was your fav, homeboy :poke:

I think I smell your bacon burning, better STFU and go check on it...

I just threw it in there because no one had said it yet, dood! :) we still gonna try to get out tomorrow?

Edited by LostCamKenny

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If you onsite free soloed YW, thats pretty dicey. Pulling on those scary flakes on pitch 2 would freak me with no rope, and pitch 3 and 4 and 5, fairly sustained for a onsite free solo. Very impressive.

I am thinking of taking the wife up SE corner today, should be in shape, don't you think?

i've done the whole thing sans cord when i was too poor for counseling and it worked wonders to straighten me out :)

 

p2 i'd never do again - jeebus.

 

p3 i've done a # of times but don't like so much b/c there's parts that are a bit crumbly and its often thin, thin thin

 

p1 is fun, but not so much w/ a rope to rap w/ on your back or trailing

 

p4 is fantastic and i do it very often - sublime - perfect choss-free rock - your bulge kev causes the contriv-meter to spiek to 10 as its 4th class to step 5 feet around it and cross back over the top to the easier crux :)

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I inadvertantly did p3 free solo once when I switched from roped soloing with a grigri to using an eddy - I had threaded it backwards for the pitch. And I have the deal in place with my wife not to free solo otherwise I likely would have taken more than a few rides on YW by now.

 

Overall, I sketch more on the bottom of p1 than any place; p2 I have ruthlessly wired and find the least threatening; p3 is like climbing a ladder except for the crux dihedral which is straightforward enough; the p4 crux is a one-move boulder problem that I'd rather do than traverse left and back right. The move just above the p4 crux is probably what would sketch me out more on that pitch.

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I know crazy Ken has soloed all of YW's.

 

If you step around the crux on P4 you are missing the best part of the entire route IMO.

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I know crazy Ken has soloed all of YW's.

 

If you step around the crux on P4 you are missing the best part of the entire route IMO.

 

That's why they call him Crazy Kenny.

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Right Gull, Right Gull!!!
Right Gull is OK, but far from my favorite.

No one asked you if it was your fav, homeboy :poke:

I think I smell your bacon burning, better STFU and go check on it...

I just threw it in there because no one had said it yet, dood! :) we still gonna try to get out tomorrow?

Yeah, hopefully we can get out around 1:30...

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We might be talking about different Kenny's.

There is Lost Cam Kenny and Crazy Kenny Jim O.'s friend.

I am talking about older Crazy Kenny that just got back from Colorado.

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We might be talking about different Kenny's.

There is Lost Cam Kenny and Crazy Kenny Jim O.'s friend.

I am talking about older Crazy Kenny that just got back from Colorado.

 

 

yup.

 

Sitting down upper left, black hair. this picture was 1997.

groupledge_beacon.JPG

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I inadvertantly did p3 free solo once when I switched from roped soloing with a grigri to using an eddy - I had threaded it backwards for the pitch.
Climbing solo while thinking you are tied in is probably the scariest of all (after you realize it anyway).

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That would be him.
Jim says he was quite the bad ass back in the day.

 

He certainly was. I miss Ken.

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You guys are right, this picture of the second pitch of Young Warriors makes clear just how awesome this crag really is.

 

2884Ujahn_on_p2_lost_warriors_10_04_04.jpg

Edited by Off_White

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We might be talking about different Kenny's.

There is Lost Cam Kenny and Crazy Kenny Jim O.'s friend.

I am talking about older Crazy Kenny that just got back from Colorado.

 

 

yup.

 

Sitting down upper left, black hair. this picture was 1997.

groupledge_beacon.JPG

who is the dork hippy bitch?? is that your wife, kev?

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