Off_White Posted November 3, 2009 Posted November 3, 2009 Oh, you're right, it's Lost Warriors, I misread Bill Coe's caption. Still, that's some classic climbing. Woot! Bringing home the Beacon. Plab. Quote
kevbone Posted November 3, 2009 Author Posted November 3, 2009 We might be talking about different Kenny's. There is Lost Cam Kenny and Crazy Kenny Jim O.'s friend. I am talking about older Crazy Kenny that just got back from Colorado. yup. Sitting down upper left, black hair. this picture was 1997. who is the dork hippy bitch?? is that your wife, kev? That only happened once. Quote
billcoe Posted November 3, 2009 Posted November 3, 2009 Hey Off, it's Ujahn on Lost Warriors!!! Woot! I just talked to him. Dudes working too hard to climb anything and we're going to Red Rocks in about a week. We decided to do the pussy tour and do easy routes, except that Bryan Schmidt will be showing up and he's into hard cracks these days. So if one of us doesn't sack up, he's going to get short shift. I think it's a continuation of the "it sucks to get old and busy tour" I was starting last week. Joesph, ya got to clean your route off or folks from Washington will be thinking poorly of our housekeeping. Quote
JosephH Posted November 3, 2009 Posted November 3, 2009 Oh, you're right, it's Lost Warriors, I misread Bill Coe's caption. Still, that's some classic climbing. Woot! Bringing home the Beacon. Plab. The SE flank of Beacon has a rough p2 band you have to climb through, but the climbing on the rest of LW is pure gold going up the true upper line of the SE corner structure and through the biggest roof on it. Like YW, it has a great diversity of climbing on it, though more demanding and technical. P2 is cleaned more than well enough to climb it and if you aren't prepared to feel like you're doing seriously different then you shouldn't be up there to begin with. Bill, did you take that shot? Here is the line of upper LW with the red dot approximately where Ujahn is in the photo above. The new line Menopause goes up the actual skyline to the right in this photo and you can see the rap lines from its high anchor down and right (and the photo is tipped a fair amount to the left from reality). Quote
LostCamKenny Posted November 3, 2009 Posted November 3, 2009 The wife topping out yesterday around 6. Yeah - I know that place...! Taken that picture many times myself! Quote
ivan Posted November 3, 2009 Posted November 3, 2009 That would be him. Jim says he was quite the bad ass back in the day. He certainly was. I miss Ken. no need to miss him - jim had him out a month or so again and i was able to See the Legend and swap some fine stories Quote
LostCamKenny Posted November 3, 2009 Posted November 3, 2009 DAAAAaaaa Bearrrrrsssssssss: BBBBeeeeeaaaCON Thanks, bill! I needed some help there for a minute... Quote
LostCamKenny Posted November 3, 2009 Posted November 3, 2009 We might be talking about different Kenny's. There is Lost Cam Kenny and Crazy Kenny Jim O.'s friend. I am talking about older Crazy Kenny that just got back from Colorado. yup. Sitting down upper left, black hair. this picture was 1997. the funny thing about crazy kenny - as is plenty clear in this picture - is that if you are not talking to him then nothing else exists in the world and he might as well be alone! did he even realize that this picture was being taken or was he talking to himself about how nutritious coffee is? Who took this pic kev? I saw a print of it over at Jim's place a couple of weeks ago - you and Arndt look like flippin teenagers Quote
kevbone Posted November 3, 2009 Author Posted November 3, 2009 Who took this pic kev? Big Joe from Hood River. Quote
denalidave Posted November 3, 2009 Posted November 3, 2009 That would be him. Jim says he was quite the bad ass back in the day. He certainly was. I miss Ken. no need to miss him - jim had him out a month or so again and i was able to See the Legend and swap some fine stories I've met him out there quite a bit lately... Quote
kevbone Posted November 3, 2009 Author Posted November 3, 2009 I have been to Beacon once this year. I have no plans to go...I will have to see him at Jims or Chris's house. Have not seen him since he disappeared several years ago. Quote
billcoe Posted November 4, 2009 Posted November 4, 2009 Bill, did you take that shot? Yeah I took it but don't remember doing it. I might not have been there. Hey, got any frontal pics of Menopause with yer high point marked? Quote
JosephH Posted November 4, 2009 Posted November 4, 2009 The bottom red dot on the lower edge of the photo corresponds to the high p2 (formerly p3) anchor, the upper red dot our high point out at and [vaguely - like half a body] over the lip of the roof. Leaving the high anchor is pretty serious business because of the technical nature of the pro and the moves themselves as well as due to the amount you trend right out to the lip. I took a 40-50 footer from the lip and had a pretty arduous time trying to get back to the anchor. Turning the lip is pretty airy as you've gone right so far you're now about 285' straight to the deck. Once we have an anchor up above the roof the only way to come down will be with a fixed line between p3 and p4 or two ropes tied together to the deck. You rap off the end of two 60's in this lower picture and it's a dead straight drop from the high anchor to the spot where you stand to start 'Rythmn Method'. All in all it's a pretty entertaining and interesting p2 up to the high anchor (first done in two pitches, now one) and makes for a nice climb in its own right, but I wouldn't recommend leaving that anchor unless you are absolutely dead serious about it all and prepared to deal with some pretty big (potentially car-size) loose blocks. Note: If anyone does head up there, the p1 anchor for Menopause is NOT the double-bolted Rhythmn Method anchor, but rather above it up a ways where the yellow dot is. Sling the Rythmn Method anchor long, and then head right about 20', then up about 30' to a pedestal on your left with a single bolt (a replaced original Coe bolt) and setup an anchor there - I use the bolt, a #3 Ballnut, and a black Metolius to build the p1 anchor. Quote
billcoe Posted November 4, 2009 Posted November 4, 2009 OMG. I swear that I'm gonna have my Adams Apple surgically removed so that when I see shit like that my balls have room to move right on up to my throat. Nice job. We need to get this on another page since OW messed up the formating with that large pic. Quote
billcoe Posted November 4, 2009 Posted November 4, 2009 And you've only chopped ONE rope so far? A record! Quote
billcoe Posted November 4, 2009 Posted November 4, 2009 When do we get another page so I can read normally? Now? Quote
JosephH Posted November 4, 2009 Posted November 4, 2009 Makes me a little sweaty just looking at the photos of it again as I don't think the #3 BD out at the lip is going to hold anything at this point so it will be pretty exciting to change that out next time. Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted November 4, 2009 Posted November 4, 2009 (edited) I just have to say it scares the crap out of me to contemplate going up thru those hanging blocks. That has got to be some freaky exploratory climbing you guys are doing. Today I didn't see anyone climbing there or anywhere except Jim O and party hiking out below us. Man it was windy. At one point I had to lock both hands in the crack and pull myself in and hold on for like a minute as I thought the wind was going to tear me off. Wild day with Rick H. Edited November 5, 2009 by stevetimetravlr Quote
kevbone Posted November 4, 2009 Author Posted November 4, 2009 How funny...I am reading your post (stevetimetravlr) to Jim as I type this. lol. Quote
Pete_H Posted November 4, 2009 Posted November 4, 2009 I can't wait to go climbing at Beacon so I can diss on it from personal experience. Quote
JosephH Posted November 4, 2009 Posted November 4, 2009 Dissing it is certainly the coping mechanism de rigueur for the intimidated who haven't measured up to the challenge. But, for you, we could probably arrange a mosey up the Corner with Opdycke if you're in need of some quality handholding time to get used to it all. Quote
billcoe Posted November 4, 2009 Posted November 4, 2009 I can't wait to go climbing at Beacon so I can diss on it from personal experience. Yeah, come on down! Kevbone gives good belay...and needs to get out of the house more it looks like!! LOL Quote
Off_White Posted November 4, 2009 Posted November 4, 2009 We need to get this on another page since OW messed up the formating with that large pic. Its already a page back on my machine, set your page count to 25 posts per page. Who uploaded such a huge picture to the cc.com gallery anyway? Ya'll are right though, Young Warriors looks much nicer than those first two scruffy pitches of Lost Warriors. Quote
LostCamKenny Posted November 4, 2009 Posted November 4, 2009 I can't wait to go climbing at Beacon so I can diss on it from personal experience. I can't wait for you to go climb at beacon so i can piss on you from land of the little people. Quote
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