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Sport vs Trad


Raindawg

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I agree with billcoe Why do you let two crotchety old has beens pump there ego by bringing attention to themselves. Just send their lame ass posts to spray and mine also, mine are just a knee jerk reaction response to a couple of never ending attention getting wankers

 

Watt’s a great name in NW climbing posts here and you let his tread get trashed

raindawg and pope bring nothing to the table as far as climbing in the NW goes, do we have to do this over and over :yawn:

DO YOU’RE JOB MOD’S

 

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Dick,

 

I think you are right: there are a whole lot of reasons why it was wrong to bring the old bolting bait and bash into this discussion but the fact is that somebody else actually INVITED Pope and Dwayner to this thread and several others have been unable to do anything but argue tit for tat. The mods for this forum could moderate the discussion in a different fashion but, too, you could ignore those guys and talk about something beside them.

 

I've tried to steer this conversation toward a more reflective discussion of questions like where do we stand as a group at this point in history and what impact on our sport is brought about by bolt wars and etc.

 

Matt

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It seems we have reached a general concensus overall in our sport where the type of crag and public opinion rules as to what crags are sport, what are trad, what are mixed trad and sport, etc. Some crags are just so much more suitable for trad then many other places, while some places don't offer trad placements at all. There will and should always be discussion and banter back and forth on developement but it seems to me a happy medium has been struck for a number of years now. However there always be a couple people that come along and piss in the soup in order to bring attention to themselves. Small minded and extremist, they lurk at both ends of the spectrum in all walks of life. There is no meaninful dialogue or bridging gaps and opinions, but simply a blind insistence that their way is the only way. They have no sense of community, common sense, or the overall picture and to engage them is simply to allow them to spew and get their rocks off.

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dang, sorry I missed out on this important thread until page 122! This is such a yawn topic.

 

But seriously, Don, you used to love sport climbing. Remember back in the day when you, me, Sue and Fupp or Craig would be over at Austrian Slab in the Peshastin Pinnacles? You'd have some hotties from the college with you and we'd all be climbing bolts. Slender Thread, Cajun Queen, Washboards.

 

I know you loved those routes. You hauled us all up them, and inspired us to lead them. I still remember you telling me I hadn't led a 5.8 until I'd led Cajun Queen (now upgraded to a 10).

 

You were a kick ass climber back then, and you didn't mind that someone had drilled those bolts. Bolts are the price we pay to have fun in our sport on cliffs where there are no cracks.

 

Granted, there has been some excess in places. But I find a few bolts way the hell out in the woods on a forgotten cliff to be far less impact than urban sprawl...and logging.

 

You might loose this bitterness if you went back to the pinnacles and started climbing those routes again. Hell, I'll go with ya, and I'll bring Sue! We still start every season over there. Love that friction climbing. Them are some runout bolts, and I like it that way...keeps the sportos away.

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dang, sorry I missed out on this important thread until page 122! This is such a yawn topic.

 

But seriously, Don, you used to love sport climbing. Remember back in the day when you, me, Sue and Fupp or Craig would be over at Austrian Slab in the Peshastin Pinnacles? You'd have some hotties from the college with you and we'd all be climbing bolts. Slender Thread, Cajun Queen, Washboards.

 

I know you loved those routes. You hauled us all up them, and inspired us to lead them. I still remember you telling me I hadn't led a 5.8 until I'd led Cajun Queen (now upgraded to a 10).

 

You were a kick ass climber back then, and you didn't mind that someone had drilled those bolts. Bolts are the price we pay to have fun in our sport on cliffs where there are no cracks.

 

Granted, there has been some excess in places. But I find a few bolts way the hell out in the woods on a forgotten cliff to be far less impact than urban sprawl...and logging.

 

You might loose this bitterness if you went back to the pinnacles and started climbing those routes again. Hell, I'll go with ya, and I'll bring Sue! We still start every season over there. Love that friction climbing. Them are some runout bolts, and I like it that way...keeps the sportos away.

 

Thanks for the post Mark. I suspect that most of us are all real close in views on this...once a lot of the bs is cleared out of course.

 

Take care all

 

 

BC

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It seems we have reached a general concensus overall in our sport where the type of crag and public opinion rules as to what crags are sport, what are trad, what are mixed trad and sport, etc. Some crags are just so much more suitable for trad then many other places, while some places don't offer trad placements at all. There will and should always be discussion and banter back and forth on developement but it seems to me a happy medium has been struck for a number of years now. However there always be a couple people that come along and piss in the soup in order to bring attention to themselves. Small minded and extremist, they lurk at both ends of the spectrum in all walks of life. There is no meaninful dialogue or bridging gaps and opinions, but simply a blind insistence that their way is the only way. They have no sense of community, common sense, or the overall picture and to engage them is simply to allow them to spew and get their rocks off.

 

:tup: Well said !!

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So, if all you want to do is forget history and pretend that everyone agrees, and those who don't should just shut the hell up

 

actually i think just you should shut the hell up. perhaps pope too.

 

your level of discourtesy has been quite over the top.

 

i mean really, what would yahweh say? the jewish god of vengeance would smite you.

Edited by Kimmo
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...and you didn't mind that someone had drilled those bolts. Bolts are the price we pay to have fun in our sport on cliffs where there are no cracks.

 

"Most" of those were put up on the lead and consequently are alot better spaced (read: runout).

 

 

 

 

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Okay, I locked this thread and purged out the generic anti-sportclimbing rehash of all the other Pope & Raindawg events, moving most of it to an ongoing spray thread and deleting other useless bits. I you want to argue pointlessly about the validity of sport climbing, go here. If you want to discuss the interview with Alan Watts, please continue in this thread.

 

Ah yes. The relocation camp strategy made famous in the FDR days. Let Spray be the Manzanaar of the offenders who have not offended in the least.

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Okay, I locked this thread and purged out the generic anti-sportclimbing rehash of all the other Pope & Raindawg events, moving most of it to an ongoing spray thread and deleting other useless bits. I you want to argue pointlessly about the validity of sport climbing, go here. If you want to discuss the interview with Alan Watts, please continue in this thread.

 

Ah yes. The relocation camp strategy made famous in the FDR days. Let Spray be the Manzanaar of the offenders who have not offended in the least.

 

Fuck you Fairweather, go set up your little table with the big picture of Obama with a Hitler mustache. Relocation camp? No offense? Quit being such a damn tool, they may be your friends but you know fuck all about the branch of climbing under discussion, and there have been plenty of folks offended.

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