Kimmo Posted August 19, 2009 Posted August 19, 2009 (edited) i would also add that a cool thing about climbing is that one can choose to do any climb in their own style. as an example, i led climax control with gear (which it takes slendidly for the first half or so, but none in the last 20 or 30) and it was just as rewarding (maybe more so?) than if it had been a trad climb in the first place. Edited August 19, 2009 by Kimmo Quote
ivan Posted August 19, 2009 Posted August 19, 2009 I was thinking of the time I was at the end of pitch 2 of Warriors and you free-soloed through via the Corner and you had a rope over your shoulder and a full rack in your backpack....I offered for you to join us but you declined. Piles of dead kittens heh heh nah, that wasn't me - i'dve been wearing a helmet too Quote
G-spotter Posted August 19, 2009 Posted August 19, 2009 This didn't get much (any) press in the North American climbing magazine but the comments about how popular trad adventure climbing is becoming these days in Spain are pretty neat: http://arcteryx.com/Article.aspx?article=Josune-Bereziartu-and-Rikar-Otegui-make-first-free-ascent-on-El-Castillo Quote
pope Posted August 21, 2009 Posted August 21, 2009 i would also add that a cool thing about climbing is that one can choose to do any climb in their own style. as an example, i led climax control with gear (which it takes slendidly for the first half or so, but none in the last 20 or 30) and it was just as rewarding (maybe more so?) than if it had been a trad climb in the first place. That's nonsense and I think you know it. Had you run into trouble, you could have clipped a bolt and bailed on your trad-climbing day dream. You should have had your buddy duct tape the bolts and tried it on sight (like Mark Wilford), then you would be more than welcome to log on and brag about "doing any climb in your own style". After which it would be appropriate to chop those nasty bolts. Quote
JosephH Posted August 22, 2009 Posted August 22, 2009 See, this shit happens. I was a complete bonehead and forgot my harness so ended up doing Blownout in this rig today and rapping with slings and a carabiner brake. Quote
kevbone Posted August 22, 2009 Posted August 22, 2009 JH....when I first did Blownout...there where no bolted anchors on either pitch. Imagine that! Quote
Kimmo Posted August 22, 2009 Posted August 22, 2009 That's nonsense and I think you know it. Had you run into trouble, you could have clipped a bolt and bailed on your trad-climbing day dream. You should have had your buddy duct tape the bolts and tried it on sight (like Mark Wilford), then you would be more than welcome to log on and brag about "doing any climb in your own style". After which it would be appropriate to chop those nasty bolts. ever heard of konings hoeven quadruple? a most wonderful ale. quite hoppy and fruity. Quote
JosephH Posted August 22, 2009 Posted August 22, 2009 JH....when I first did Blownout...there where no bolted anchors on either pitch. Imagine that! They aren't needed. And neither are the bolts on the first and second pitch. Quote
KaskadskyjKozak Posted September 7, 2009 Posted September 7, 2009 is that twiggy phreaking proto-r2d2? EX-TERMINATE!!! Quote
Kimmo Posted December 4, 2009 Posted December 4, 2009 dwayner, i thought you were done here at cascadeclimbers.com? i guess i don't understand someone who keeps posting when the only thing they have to offer are incessant complaints and negativity? oh btw, what do you call 1/2 price bacon? buahahahahhaaaaaa funny shit! Quote
Raindawg Posted December 4, 2009 Author Posted December 4, 2009 dwayner, i thought you were done here at cascadeclimbers.com? No, dude....just done with you and a few others similar. I've been away for awhile doing some exciting field work....enjoy your cubicle. i guess i don't understand someone who keeps posting when the only thing they have to offer are incessant complaints and negativity? Maybe there ARE things to complain about. Maybe you don't want to hear about it. Too bad. Keep your head in the sand and pretend "it's all good" with no dissent, just the way YOU WOULD like to see it. oh btw, what do you call 1/2 price bacon? buahahahahhaaaaaa funny shit! Looking for the punchline of an anti-Semitic joke? Poached right from another topic on cc.com: A real knee-slapper! Proud of yourself? B-bye! Quote
Kimmo Posted December 4, 2009 Posted December 4, 2009 [oh btw, what do you call 1/2 price bacon? buahahahahhaaaaaa funny shit! Looking for the punchline of an anti-Semitic joke? Poached right from another topic on cc.com: A real knee-slapper! Proud of yourself? B-bye! anti-semitic? care to tell me how that is "anti-semitic"? oh lordy, your anality extends way past rock climbing, doesn't it? plus, everyone knows judaism is pretty much the world religion equivalent of sport climbing. if one can't make fun of the jews, then one can't make fun of the finns. where would that leave us? Quote
el jefe Posted December 4, 2009 Posted December 4, 2009 a world without finnish jokes is a world that wouldn't be worth living in... Quote
RuMR Posted December 4, 2009 Posted December 4, 2009 a world without finnish jokes is a world that wouldn't be worth living in... hey...fuggoff...i resemble that...what are you? Swedishghey or Norwegianlutefishfucker?? Quote
Kimmo Posted December 4, 2009 Posted December 4, 2009 a world without finnish jokes is a world that wouldn't be worth living in... hey...fuggoff...i resemble that...what are you? Swedishghey or Norwegianlutefishfucker?? you really know how to kick a guy when he's finn. Quote
pope Posted December 5, 2009 Posted December 5, 2009 .... use of chalk was once deemed a "dubious tactic" as was the use of leg loops (rather than just a swami belt) or the use of camming devices (considered "cheating" when they were first introduced). the truth is that climbing tactics have evolved and changed throughout the history of the sport, with the usual story being those who went before decrying the "dubious tactics" of those who came after. Interesting observation, which in no way explains my objections to sport climbing since I started climbing shortly after the arrival of sport climbing, and since I have routinely welcomed new ideas and technologies, to the extent that they improve my experience but to not impact the experience of others. Rap bolting leaves a metalic trail of trash, creating an imposition on my experience. Using leg loops obviously does not. Quote
el jefe Posted December 5, 2009 Posted December 5, 2009 [ Rap bolting leaves a metalic trail of trash, creating an imposition on my experience. is this for real? if the great majority of climbers are okay with it, then it's okay. the fact that you feel it is an "imposition" on your experience is your deal, no one else's. your feelings are your responsibility. that's the way it works in the world. the rest of us aren't responsible for making your experience better. if the rest of the climbing community is okay with bolted routes then the fact that you consider it an "imposition" is something you need to come to terms with on your own. henry barber never used leg loops and thought camming devices were cheating. should the rest of us be expected to give up leg loops and cams because hot henry finds our use of them an imposition on his experience? Quote
kevbone Posted December 5, 2009 Posted December 5, 2009 is this for real? if the great majority of climbers are okay with it, then it's okay. the fact that you feel it is an "imposition" on your experience is your deal, no one else's. your feelings are your responsibility. that's the way it works in the world. the rest of us aren't responsible for making your experience better. if the rest of the climbing community is okay with bolted routes then the fact that you consider it an "imposition" is something you need to come to terms with on your own. Post of the day. Quote
billcoe Posted December 5, 2009 Posted December 5, 2009 We would all benefit from more naked women pics. maybe we'd all lighten up and be friendly and happier. I'm sure Don would be anyway. Quote
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