DPS Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 What do you folks bring for tat when you know you will be making a lot of rappels? 9/16” webbing? Perlon? I have been using 6 mm perlon because I can use it for Prusik slings and is fairly light and cheap. Do folks usually go with something beefier? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 Hey Dan, I bring whatever is in my "retired gear" bin at the time. Sometimes it's old 9/16" or 1" tubular, sometimes it's old 6 or 7mm prussik loops, and sometimes it's old spectra or dyneema slings. I just can't seem to throw anything away, but it eventually gets used up somewhere along the line... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaoleung Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 I usually don't get to retire tied webbing as it goes to raps. 9/16 is great: Cheap and strong. I like to clean up the f-ing mess of crap people leave on raps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete_H Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 How about 1" tubular webbing climber guy, who has just fucking reams of 1" tubular hanging from his harness, and who superfluously backs up every rap anchor with gobs of webbing. Frequently seen mid-season epicing on the Beckey Route of Lib Bell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 1/2" tubular. Super compact/light, easy to make v threads with and just strong enough. Kinda hard to find though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaoleung Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 Billcoe I bet knows the report, but there was recently a study done of the tat left on anchors around Yosemite. Supposedly 4 slings of the most heinous, old, faded webbing they pulled off anchors could still hold several thousand pounds. If you feel like you need to add something, at least take away the crap you don't trust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 Used Dental Floss. Anything more is just a waste. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted July 22, 2009 Author Share Posted July 22, 2009 I looked up the specs on cord/webbing: 6mm perlon - 6.88 kn 9/16 " tubular webbing - 9 kn 7mm perlon - 10 kn I think I will switch to 7 mm cord - those extra 3 kn make me feel warm and fuzzy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 2nd on the 1/2 inch tubular. John, is it still at climbax? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 I used some 1/2" flat webbing, like you'd use to make a strap to hold your foam pad on your pack. It made sickening noises when weighted, looked pretty sketchy around a sharp horn, and made me feel queasy. Can't say I'd recommend it, but it was cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 2nd on the 1/2 inch tubular. John, is it still at climbax? I am waiting for a sample to arrive from a strap business. I will let you know what I find. So far $.33 a foot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 I just use the cord from my cordelettes, which is 5.5 vectran, superlight, I already have it with me on a climb so it not additional material that I am packing, though more pricey that .33 a foot. These days, I don't spend any money on bail material/cordelettes due to the fact there is nothing to climb here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 2nd on the 1/2 inch tubular. John, is it still at climbax? I am waiting for a sample to arrive from a strap business. I will let you know what I find. So far $.33 a foot OMC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 Billcoe I bet knows the report, but there was recently a study done of the tat left on anchors around Yosemite. Supposedly 4 slings of the most heinous, old, faded webbing they pulled off anchors could still hold several thousand pounds. If you feel like you need to add something, at least take away the crap you don't trust. I still remember the first time I climbed Wilman's Spire East. One of the rap stations had about 14 slings of 1" webbing. I started in with my knife, cutting out the oldest looking ones first. I finally rapped on the last, best looking 4 without adding a new one. The mass of slings I cut out and took with me was the size of a bowling ball. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 I had a super weathered chunk of webbing break under body weight once. Fortunately it was backed up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 I stick to 6mm cord, DPS. When I'm expecting to leaving some behind, I simply carry an extra cordellette. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 Strength of 6mm = 6.88kN (low according to what I've seen in a quick web search), x 2 because it's in a loop, times .66 to account for loss of strength in knot = 9.1kN strength. Climber mass(UIAA definition) = 80kg, gravity = 10m/s^2, climber "weight" = .8kN. Max force you can generate in a FallFactor 0 = 2.5 x weight... Max force 80kg climber can generate in a bounce (FF0) = 2.0 kN vs. 9.1kN for a tied 6mm sling = pretty good safety factor IMO. It sure looks spooky though... I looked up the specs on cord/webbing: 6mm perlon - 6.88 kn 9/16 " tubular webbing - 9 kn 7mm perlon - 10 kn I think I will switch to 7 mm cord - those extra 3 kn make me feel warm and fuzzy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 Thanks for working the numbers out into a real world scenario Snoboy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 Thanks for the math SnoBoy - you get used to the skinny factor, and it rolls up so much nicer than 7mm. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurthicks Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 FYI all: I saw the 1/2" webbing at Der Sportsman in Der Town yesterday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 Just got back to this thread, and I was gonna do the math for Dan. Seems I got beat to it by snoboy. Thanks, SB! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Otto Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 To me, "tat" has had a negative meaning, useless trash that has to be cleaned away. But sometimes we happen upon something special, we'd like to imbue with nostalgic meaning. Here's some cool tat we found on a forlorn and neglected cliff... This was left by some "ledge walkers" long ago, adventurous dads of a bygone era, who must have been fearless rapellers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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