Fitness evaluation before attempting Rainier?

[Threxx]

Hi all.

I'm from Memphis, TN, though for a few years when I was a kid I lived in Astoria, OR. Anyhow... I have a serious addiction to hiking... especially when combined with high elevation, but of course I live in almost the worst part of the country you could possibly live in for somebody wanting to hike up high. I've got the smoky mountains a 7 hour drive to my east, and I go there a couple times a year. Then I've got the ozarks a few hours to my west, but those are about half the height of the smoky range.

 

Anyhow... point being I've been wanting to summit Rainier for a couple years now but have never been on any hike over 10k feet in my life and have no idea what to expect, and am very nervous as to whether I'm physically prepared enough for this or if I'm going to be wasting my time and money in the attempt. I'm currently planning to go with a friend in August to attempt the summit from Camp Muir via disappointment cleaver, etc. (the easiest way as I understand it)

 

I know this is very subjective and varies from person to person but could you guys give me some rough idea of what sort of things I should be able to do at home if I've got a good shot of making it to the top of Rainier?

 

Currently for physical conditioning I do (and have been doing for the last 6 months, and will continue to do leading up to Rainier in 3 more months unless advised otherwise)

-25 minutes of high intensity interval training on my elliptical with the incline set to 40 degrees and resistance cranked up... I often wear a 40 pound pack as well. Basically just 6 or 7 very intense (180+ bpm) 95% intensity intervals with 1.5-2 minutes in between each one, and a warm up and warm down. I do this 2 times per week.

-Lower body weights once per week. (I do this less often because the HIIT seems to conflict with it if I don't take a day off between this and HIIT)

-Upper body weights twice per week.

-High protein diet. I've got a pretty low body fat percentage.

 

What else should I be adding to this regiment and what sort of fitness tests can you recommend that I could use to evaluate myself?

 

I'm 27 years old, 6'1", 175lb. I would describe my lower body strength to be very good compared to the average person, though maybe not compared to the average mountaineer. My last hiking trip was 2 months ago and I (we) covered 34 miles in the smoky mountains over the course of 2 (well technically 1.5) days with about 15,000 feet of total elevation change according to my GPS (including all up and down). Nice weather, very little snow/ice, and a maximum elevation of about 6,600 feet with a starting elevation of 2500. Some bush whacking involved and probably a maximum incline of 30-35 degrees (estimated but we were on hands and knees and pulling ourselves along with trees for much of it, to give you an example) for a total of only about a mile. Pack weight was very light at 25-30 pounds since we had a shelter to stay in at night. I was completely torn up at the end of the trip... couldn't even walk right. In fact our original plan was to be out there for another night and walk 5 miles back to the car but we were in too much pain. Turns out my buddy separated his glute muscle from his hip bone during the high incline bushwhack portion of the trip.

 

Any help is much appreciated, even if it's just guess work or approximating... it's better than what I have to go on now, which is nothing.

 

Thanks

Kyle

Edited April 29, 2009 by Threxx

[astrov]

bring some bottled oxygen to be on the safe side

[Pete_H]

Make sure you stash some beer at the parking lot for when you get back. Bring the bourbon with you though.

[Threxx]

Seriously? I haven't read about anyone using oxygen on a 14er. Is that a performance enhancer or just a precaution in case I react badly to the lack of oxygen? We will be acclimating at Muir for a day, for what it's worth.

 

By the way we're planning on going up there with RMI. Is that a good way to go for noobs like us?

[cbcbd]

Kyle,

There is no one set metric. You'll have lots of elevation so just go on more long and high elevation hikes in the smokies and throw a heavy pack on for good measure. I'd also throw in some lower speed, high weight stairmastering. That way you get the building of your hiking up leg muscles and the cardio from the intervals you already do.

From my experience up there, your lungs will probably be hurting long before your legs. Make sure you're acclimatized at Muir and you "should" be ok for the top.

Train hard and easy (don't overtrain yourself to injury) and go up there and see how you handle elevation.

[Rad]

Threxx,

You can expect a lot of snide comments on this forum, so if that's not your cup of tea best to check out now. That said, some will provide you with thoughtful advice.

Here's my 2 cents:

1 - If you have no experience on glaciers hiring a guide is a good way to go, particularly in August.

2 - Talk to your prospective guide about fitness. They can tell you where you should be. The level you need depends on how fast you plan to ascend (e.g. 1-3 days).

3 - You have to understand that Rainier is a big mtn and weather can ruin your plans any time of the year.

4 - If you are hell bent on a summit, don't want to hire a guide, and want to test your fitness go hike up Whitney in CA. It's a crowded walk-up with none of the snow, ice, glacier issues of Rainier.

5 - If you are motivated there's no reason why you can't achieve your goal.

Good luck.

Rad

[ivan]

the conditioning thing is largely irrelevant - if you haven't used an ice axe or practiced crevasse rescue, you have no business above 10k on rainer w/o a guide or having first practiced those skills for a few hours below

 

that said, the first time i climbed rainier, it was just me and 2 similiarly inept buddies - we had a copy of freedom of the hills though, and warmed up w/ climbs of hood, where we practiced the groovy diagrams in the textbook - that oughta work for you too - its fun - just don't underestimate the weather or the crevasses out of a concern for physical conditioning - that part is easy - just go at whatever pace you can maintain for hour after hour, enjoy the views, and you'll be there before you know it

[BirdDog]

Link to Mt. Rainier Fitness

http://www.whittakermountaineering.com/pg/training_conditioning/ccref#nutrition

 

good luck

[TarHeelEMT]

This should be a fun thread.

 

Honestly, it sounds as though experience will be a bigger limiter for you than fitness. You should seriously consider joining a guided trip if you have no prior experience with mountaineering. The standard route up Rainier isn't the most technical climb in the world, but its objective hazards are significant for an inexperienced climber.

[Threxx]

Thanks for the info so far, everyone.

 

I didn't mention it until the second reply in this thread, but we are definitely going up there with a guide... RMI.

www.rmiguides.com

 

They say from a technical perspective their 4 day or 5 day disappointment cleaver summit is perfect for beginnings with little to no technical skill.

 

I've got tons of experience hiking and some with rock climbing but of course with no significant ice or snow less than a plane flight away from me... I don't have any technical experience with steep ice/snow climbing... especially around glaciers.

 

I already have most of the gear I need... just need the ice climbing stuff. I'm got some La Sportiva Glacier boots that are cramp-on compatible and have a nice 3-layer jacket and pant system that has served be well into the slightly below zero range several times in the past.

 

I guess I'm less worried about the technical stuff since I've got the guides and am a pretty quick learner. The main point I'm worried about failing on is strength and cardio.

 

I have to say my natural heart rate recovery isn't as good as most peoples'... but HIIT seems to have helped there a bit.

[Pete_H]

Fat yuppies climb the motherfucker all the time. You'll be fine.

[Off_White]

Yeah, how about we skip the snide comments on this one, okay?

 

Pete's right Threxx, you've got nothing to worry about on the fitness end, and the guides will cover for your glacier inexperience. Have fun and tell us a story with some pictures afterwards.

[sprocket]

If you are going with RMI they will get the basics drilled into you. If you are going to be on the mountain for 4-5 days you'll have a little more time to get acclimated and also a better chance with the weather cooperating.

 

I would say that the biggest piece of advice is to look at the trip as an experience. Enjoy it no matter the outcome. I did a trip with RMI a few years back and we got turned around due to the cold and high winds but had a great time anyways. So did most of the folks on the trip, but there were a few who were really a little bent when they got turned around.

 

As far as training I think a couple people mentioned that long steady efforts are the way to go. If you can get double workouts in one day a week or every other week that works well. Do maybe a decent conditioning hike in the morning (3,000-4,000 vertical if you can find it) and then maybe a 2 hour bike ride or trail run in the afternoon. You won't get much sleep the night before you go for the summit so getting used to a workload when you are a bit tired already is a good idea.

 

Altitude can affect anyone. Some of the guides on our trip got headaches every time they got above a certain elevation. Sometimes the same person can be super strong on one climb and be struggling on the next. If you can get on something less technical beforehand to see how you react, maybe Whitney in CA, something in Colorado or if you get out here early hike up to Muir or maybe the south side of Mt. Adams, that is helpful.

 

The guides will tell you that that patience and a positive attitude will often serve you better than being super fit.

 

Be patient and pace yourself. Eat regularly and drink often.

 

And bring earplugs.

 

Good luck and have fun.

 

[genepires]

there is a video about training for rainier from a local trainer. I "think" it may be available on netflix if you subscribe to that.

 

http://www.bodyresults.com/p1rainier.asp

 

The above advice is all very good. For long endurance training, which you will need more than power, how about trying long and hilly bike riding? You could ride for many hours to test your summit day energy levels.

 

Your training looks pretty sound. I would bet that you will be much more physically able to get up rainier than the rest of the other clients.

 

Probably the most important thing for someone like yourself is learning how (and doing it) to take care of themselves physically up there. Hydration is very important and easy to let slip. Eat drink and be merry. (and sunscreen)

 

ENjoy rainier and let us know how it goes!

[obwan]

The best information I have seen is in Mike Gauthier's book "Climbing Rainier" (he's been the head climbing ranger in the past) - I'm sure you'll find it on Amazon.com. I wish I had all of his input years ago - he tells it like it really is, and he covers some fitness issues.

[Choada_Boy]

You should measure your VO2 max.

[olyclimber]

If you just want something to focus on for training so you're in shape then work on your cardio. Having your ticker in condition will make your trip more enjoyable. If you can run 4-5 miles at a faster pace, you're set. Given your age and that you're aren't fat...you'll do fine. Have fun!

[Bug]

I'm 50 and 20 lbs overweight. I climb Rainier almost every year. I "deem myself ready" when I can run 5 miles with a steep hill at the end. I push myself to the point of seeing spots at the top. When I can do that and regain my breath without having my lungs or legs hurt, I am "ready". That is overkill but I like to know that I have a good reserve of energy if something goes wrong.

It is a long slog. Up and down.

[JZickler]

I climbed Rainier with RMI last summer and it was much easier than I expected. Granted, we had ideal weather and the guides (world class guides I might add) did all the route finding so as a client all you really need to do is put one foot in front of the other. Two of the guys on my rope were 60+ and made it no problem. The pace is slow and manageable. Master the rest step and pressure breathing techniques they will teach you the first day they are valuable tools to have. From what you have disclosed about your training habits I'm sure you have the fitness to summit if Rainier lets you.

[AR_Guy]

Lots of good advice here. Sounds like you're in good shape. I'd tend to throw in some more longer, but moderate workouts. 20 mile hikes with a pack on heading up all the hills you can find are great to get in shape.

 

If you can, get out here a few days early and spend it at elevation. When I bagged Whitney as the side trip to my PCT hike in 2006, it was fun (in a sick sort of way) to chuckle at the folks coming up the portal who were totally unacclimated. The thru hikers, prior to this section, were all acclimated up to about 6k (plus had 700+ miles of hiking to get in shape). The during the 4 day approach hike from Kennedy Meadows preceding doing Whitney, we'd camped at about 10k, so we were all very well acclimated.

 

Compared to the folks coming up the portal, all of the hikers, while it was hard with the elevation, were flying up the trail. The portal folks were standing still by comparison.

 

As said above - looking forward to the TR with your pics from the top.

[Threxx]

Great info everyone. Thanks!

 

I will definitely take tons of pics and post them here when I get back.

 

I'm choosing to ignore the people that say I'm already fit enough to make it up the mountain. I'd rather prove you right by continuing to work out and dominating the trip to the summit than prove you wrong by failing. But you've at least made me less nervous about the whole ordeal.

 

The thing that concerns me is I have a friend that's already been up the mountain and he was saying something like 30% of the people on the trips he saw failed and some of them were pretty young.

 

Anyhow... unfortunately because it's 5 to 7 hours each way to any trails I can't work out on any actual mountain trails with regularity... I'd be lucky to get out there 2-3 more times in between now and August.

 

But I've got a precor elliptical at home that will run up to 40 degrees of incline and very high resistance. I've found that by setting it to the highest incline and resistance and putting 50 pounds of weights in my hiking pack I seem to get a burn and intensity very similar to being on the trail. I'm going to start pushing my sessions up to 40 minutes doing this and keeping my heart rate around 170. I'm afraid to do any more than that for fear of burning muscle.

 

You should measure your VO2 max.

 

I did the performance test on my elliptical last night, which I'm sure isn't 'that' accurate but it's as good as I've got. Anyhow it told me my VO2 max was 46. From what I've read online that's considered 'very good' but not excellent. Hopefully I will continue to improve on this in the next few months.

Edited May 1, 2009 by Threxx

[Bishopp66]

If you have a few months, find your local Crossfit and get in there 5 days a week. I can assure you after 2 months of crossfit you WILL be in shape to climb Rainier. Guaranteed.

[cbcbd]

I'm going to start pushing my sessions up to 40 minutes doing this and keeping my heart rate around 170. I'm afraid to do any more than that for fear of burning muscle.

Don't worry about "burning muscle". The goal is to tear muscle and let it rebuild stronger. As long as you give the muscle rest to rebuild feel free to burn it away.

The same does not apply for tendons, ligaments... if you start to feel any non-muscle pain - ACL, achilles, ITB, etc - stop.

[Lisa_D]

I had done a lot of glacier climbing, mountaineering, and been up Baker twice before doing Rainier this past winter, but was struck by the increased need for mental toughness and patience on Rainier. I thought I was pretty good at the rest step, but my boyfriend (who had been up Rainier more than 5 times) had a lot of advice for me about how to really walk efficiently and I improved it a lot throughout the climb. When I get above 10,000 feet I get lazy and apathetic, and I remember saying at 13,000 feet, "well, we've done enough, let's go down." It's a very mental climb, and finding your own rhythm is really important. The rest step can be pretty slow and mind-numbing, but it's a good way to slog up the mountain and you can find a sort of zen in it.

 

Sounds like you're doing a great job training, and if you continue to work hard you will be in good enough shape not only to succeed, but to enjoy the trip...Especially if you acclimatize well and have a good group and guide.

[Skeezix]

1. You shouldn't worry, you're training and will be ready.

2. The advice about getting up to elevation (6-8,000') and hanging out there to acclimate before your climb is good advice --but we don't always have the time to do that. What can hurt you is going from sea level to 10k all in one day.

3. Drink lots of water. Pee should run clear to pale yellow. Pay attention to this one!

4. Again, don't worry, you're going to have a great adventure.