sobo Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 one exception to the rule doesn't negate the rule. Maybe there is one real swavay smooth guide out there but most (including myself) just dumb highschool geeks. (said with smiles and love for guides) Gene, I was just making a joke, at rob's expense. No harm intended to you, nor him. I venture to say if I roped up with you, we'd both have a whale of a good time on whatever we would climb. Yay life! I have not had the "typical guide experience" that so many have lamented, so I am not about to judge all guides as many have done in the past. I have only climbed with two guides in my entire 25 years of this gig, and both were within the last couple of years. And it wasn't the "guide-client" relationship, it was just some guys going out climbing. Of the two guides I've climbed with in my life, I thought that both were highly capable and damned fun guys to hang out with. The first guide I ever roped up with was Kurt Hicks (kurthicks/wazzumountaineer) for a FA at Lightning Dome 2.5 years ago and again on Orbit last October, and Justin (summerprophet) at Fugg's Falls at the end of 2008. I can only hope that they had as good a time as I did, and would want to tie in with this old goatfucker again some time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 I betcha when Beckey was 17 and Helmy was 15 and they headed off for Wadd nobody told their mommy to keep them close to her skirts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 I betcha when Beckey was 17 and Helmy was 15 and they headed off for Wadd nobody told their mommy to keep them close to her skirts. haha... thats exactly what I tell my Mom all the time.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 seriously, who's gonna fork over cash to these kids to jug a fixed line.... save the money urself and it will be all yours, as it looks right now ur getting a bunch of advice u didn't ask for and i bet ur thinking that sucks. less than a year of planning seems to over zealous to me. i suggest keeping your big dreams to urself until u have lived them, mostly because the peanut gallery is cc.com. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braydon Posted March 15, 2009 Author Share Posted March 15, 2009 (edited) I've been planning this since last Spring. Thats why I went to Aconcagua, to see how I do at altitude on something non-technical. i suggest keeping your big dreams to urself until u have lived them, mostly because the peanut gallery is cc.com. Alright then, Pink is right about going to cc.com for advice, I guess we'll bring this thread back to life in November then...case closed...later. Edited March 15, 2009 by Braydon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el jefe Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 i suspect lots of people told mama beckey she should keep those boys close to her skirts. this would have been normal at any time. that she was unable/unwilling to do so is another matter entirely. in any event, the comparison of the beckey boys going off to waddington with the question of marc and braydon going to pumori misses the point entirely. marc and braydon are ambitious, no doubt, and judging from what i've read here at cc.com (since i've never met either of them) are already on the path to becoming highly skilled all-arounders, so why this sudden desire to plunk down a boatload of cash to be guided up a big himalayan peak like newbies rather than develop the skillset necessary to undertake this sort of climb on their own? fred and helmy went out and gathered some experience in the mountains, then made the leap to a bigger mountain based on the experience they had acquired firsthand; on the other hand, marc and braydon are talking about buying someone else's experience, which is kind of like getting an honorary degree from some university because you made a big donation -- yes, you get the sheepskin, but you still don't know shit and everyone knows it. the question is: who do you want to be? do you want to be known as the kids who figured out a way to buy the summit of pumori or do you want to be climbers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 I've been planning this since last Spring. Thats why I went to Aconcagua, to see how I do at altitude on something non-technical. i suggest keeping your big dreams to urself until u have lived them, mostly because the peanut gallery is cc.com. Alright then, Pink is right about going to cc.com for advice, I guess we'll bring this thread back to life in November then...case closed...later. when i say plan i mean having the money thing figured out my friend, money is the crux for most climbers. oh what i could go climb right now if i had the money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Conway Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 So if I'm reading this correctly, your goal is to raise sponsorship money in order to hire a guide to climb Pumori. And the hook is that in doing so you would be the youngest people to climb that peak. If you're hiring a guide, you're seeking a scholarship, not a sponsorship. You should be up-front about this. You got off to a poor start in this thread, since I had to read between the lines in Dane's comments to catch the guiding angle. I have little experience asking people for money. But I think it should begin with full disclosure. You aren't thinking big Lowell. Assembling a "team" to help you climb Everest will no only get you lucrative book deals, sponsorship and speaking contracts, it'll allow you to sell $449 training DVDs: http://www.crmlearning.com/everest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvashtarkatena Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 The guide may try to steal the girlfriend but guides have no women skills. They look good on the outside but the inside is a different story. The girlfriend is safe......from guides. Don't sell yourself short, Gene. You still got it goin on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lowell_Skoog Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 I betcha when Beckey was 17 and Helmy was 15 and they headed off for Wadd nobody told their mommy to keep them close to her skirts. Fred (born in 1923) was 19 when they climbed Waddington in 1942. I presume Helmy was 17. I think their parents worried about them a lot and introduced them to older and more experienced climbers. Fred entered the Mountaineers climbing course in 1939. His earliest mentors were Dwight Watson (born in 1900) and Lloyd Anderson (born in 1902). The Beckey brothers went to Waddington with Erick Larson, who was about 32 at the time. (Larson was a friend of Dwight Watson.) Larson became ill and was left behind by the Beckeys during the approach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sobo Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 Larson became ill and was left behind by the Beckeys during the approach. And the rest, as they say, was history... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edlinger Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Go for it! I remember when Colin was a wee kid and you guys are on the same wavelength. I've been sponsored before and sadly, climbing sponsorship in the climbing world sometimes simply means free rock shoes. I thought I heard that Sharma is the highest paid rock climber in the world and he makes around 20K with no benefits or medical but he gets free flights in addition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 no such thing as a professional climber.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Hey Marc and Braydon, I started climbing at 18 or so, definitively giving you two the jump on me by few years, but there is a lot of benefits to starting young and I think you guys are well on your way. However, I think instead of needing to raise several thousands of dollars and fly halfway around the world, you can definitely find some full-on alpine adventures in the WA and BC! There is a reason that SO many of America's best alpinist have come from WA. I can think of a ton of routes that haven't seen 2nd ascents (or firsts) and would for sure give you all the adventure and excitement you could hope for! I would be glad to suggest a few if you wanted some ideas, and could almost guarantee you wouldn't see another party of climbers nearby. As far as sponsorships, most companies are very reluctant to just fork over cash to two young climbers without a history of strong ascents. If or when a company wanted to sponsor you, it would likely be through the donations of gear, or 'sample' gear. It would be easier to have this happen if you were taking part at high-profile climbing events or had won a specific grant and already had the money/planning/climb concept in the bag for your trip. Very few climbers of any discipline are straight-up paid a salary or stipend. Your chances of getting donations to pay your guide fee on a Himalayan peak are basically zero. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevino Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 (edited) Blake, I would be interested in the aforementioned list or routes that you speak of. I'm always looking for excitment and adventure! Edited March 16, 2009 by kevino Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 go make some money and climb some cool shit and u won't have to listen to the peanut gallery anymore..... take lots of pics cause i never read trip reports Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Another suggestion for "sponsorship" is through your network of friends, family, jobs etc. We were able to convince our employers to chip in on some food on one of the trips I did on Denali. The company I worked for gave us $500 worth of dehydrated meals and the bank one of my partners worked for gave us $1,000 and also used the story in some advertising. It was not a ton of money but it sure helped. I also second the idea of hitting up all the areas closer to home if you can't get the money for this exact trip you have your heart set on. Have fun and be safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 There are so many, I am sure there are a lot more. How about... (generally South to North) Vanishing Point or NW passage on Dolomite Tower Dragons of Eden on Dragontail Dragon Scar on Dragontail The Tempest Wall on CBR Der Sportsman on Prusik Peak North Face of Bonanza (Rock rib in summer, anything in winter) Soviet Route on Bonanza South Face of Dome North Face of Bannock Gunsight Traverse (anything on the Gunsight Range) This crazy & exciting looking thingy. It might be a animal-planet adventure full of crazy critters and tasty Huckleberries. Just don't take it for granite. http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/87239171 Complete SE Ridge of Buckner W/Gendarmes North face (east)mixed routes on Buckner (Copa Cobana, etc) NW Ridge of Logan Supercouloir ice and snow chimney on N. Face of Mantis Yvon Chouinard route on Cutthroat Most big faces in the Pickets (north Faces on Twin Needles) NE Face of Tower Diamond on Bear North Face on Castle (would love to see a repeat) Colorado Route, or Hirst/Herrington Route. The aproach is easy and the camping superb. Steinbok - NE buttress East Pillar on Slesse North Face on Vienesse Hidden Pillar on Bardean I am not at all saying I am a good enough climber to climb all these things, but I bet you'd find a lot of adventure, as well as some of the best or hardest alpine routes in the Lower 48 (plus southern BC). I think you could take a year off work and easily make attempts at all these routes for less than the cost of that Pumori trip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 can't see the pics dude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 The Hidden Pillar sounds like its rather sporting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 can't see the pics dude What up Pink...you need a "guide" for this stuff?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 only if u promise not to hit on my mom..... make sure u tell those boys about the dangers of drugs and vd's while ur at it..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinner Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 "Smith Ski Athletes swarm the podium at Big Mountain Ski Comps at Snowbird - March 14, 2009 It was a big week of big mountain skiing in Utah’s Little Cottonwood Canyon, and the Smith athletes were all over the place. Kicking things off was the first ever Jr. Freeskiing Nationals at Snowbird, UT. Smith Optics was proud to be a sponsor of this event and help promote the insane level of talent possessed by these fearless 12-17 year olds. With Smith banners lining the course, as well as more than two feet of fresh snow, the kids went off. In the 12-14 age group, it was the Rose bros who put on a clinic for all the other kids to see. Sporting the brand new Smith product courtesy of their dad (Utah Smith rep Garret Rose) Riley, age 14, and Casey, age 12, earned their keep as they flashed aggressive lines and incorporated big airs, earning them a first and third place finish respectively. In the 15-17 age group, it was Smith athlete Leo Ahrens who blew the field away with his smooth and confident skiing. Leo, who has been known to stomp double backflips off cliffs in previous competitions, played it somewhat safe and skied hard and fast, stomping his airs and saving the tricks for another day. This strategy paid off, as the judges rewarded him for his control, fluidity, and style as the 17 year old Leo finished the day on top of the podium. 16 year old John Collinson, another ripping Smith sponsored Snowbird local, blazed down the course with aggression and speed, and was awarded the coveted Sickbird belt buckle, given to the skier with the most aggressive, hard charging run. Not just a downhill shredder, John is preparing to climb Mt. Everest later this month, and if he is successful in his attempt, he will be the youngest person to have reached the summit of Earth’s highest mountain. By sponsoring the event and having our young skiers dominate, it is very apparent that Smith Optics has its finger on the pulse of the next generation." Maybe get paid huge bucks in another discipline - baseball players make a bundle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 Nav Wall East Face of Sleese Robie Reid Bohemian Rhapsody NE Face of Booker Megaladon Ridge N Ridge of Buck Distal Phalanx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dane Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 only if u promise not to hit on my mom..... make sure u tell those boys about the dangers of drugs and vd's while ur at it..... Little sick dick is good for ya, and who knows, some hot moms out there. Point is ya gotta be alive to smoke a doobie or get a piece ass. Hanging out above 6000 meters lessens those opportunities. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.