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3000 ft sport route on Mt. Baring??


miker

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If anyone goes up there it would be great if they could post specifics and the approach of the Burdo sport route that was mentioned in Rock and Ice. Also is their really a band of Dolomite on it? If so, it would be way cool.

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i was just talking to bryan in the gym the other night about this, there are in fact 2 bolted lines, 'northwest passage', which shares some belays with the old doorish aid route, and 'vanishing point', which is newer. bryan said he was still working on trying to do VP in a single push (he had done all the moves, but hadn't led the whole thing free in one go). NP has several .12 pitches, VP sounds like is significantly harder. bryan has been working the route by hiking up to the top of baring with 1500 feet of rope, rapping down and solo-tr'ing the moves because the "approach" pitches are still (as of last week) very wet. he said the hard pitches are "sport bolted" but there are many pitches that require some or all gear placement.

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I think it's called Dolomite Tower because Beckey and Schoening thought it looked like a tower in the Dolomites of Italy, not because it's made of dolomite. although, with the geology of the N. cascades, i wouldn't be surprised... don't think there is really any dolomite around those parts though.

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So, has anybody heard of this long bolted rock climb. I have driven by and seen Mt. Baring, but I was recently told that there is a complete route for ~3000 ft on rock. Does anybody know if this is true?

Rating?

Grade?

Topo with pretty pic of every bush and handhold?

Condition of rock? (No need to go into the relative comparison of good vs bad rock as that is in another thread.

Just curious as I like the long routes.

Mike

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the route is 'vanishing point.' it is 12b at the crux, i have heard. i'm not sure that it has been completed in a day. all pitches have been climbed free, though. apparently it has 1,500 feet or so of 5.11 climbing. the crux is at the roof obvious in profile. it is bolted, but i hear there are some fifty or sixty foot runouts at 5.9. the rock is apparently great.

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1500 ft of 5.11? hmmmm

I have climbed 5.11 moves, but mayhaps that is a bit beyond my level in terms of sustained hardness.

Definitely a long-term goal though.

How aidable is the route?

5.9 C1?

Thanks for the info everyone.

miike

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