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Everything posted by scott

  1. Climb: half dome -reg nw face Date of Climb: 5/3/2004 Trip Report: did this route this weekend. tried for one day from the valley floor, but due to murphy's law and the gumby factor (it was my first grade VI and my partners first wall of any sort) only made it to pitch 17 - big sandy. spent a very cold night sitting there at big sandy and topped out yesterday. the more direct option for the final pitch is very wet, but can be avoided. the first six pitches can be done very quickly - something like 3 hours. once you hit the chimneys, the climbing becomes harder. the pitches above big sandy seemed hard because we we tired. to do it in a day, get to big sandy by 3 pm or so. we woke up at 3 am, hiked the death slabs in the dark, and started climbing at first light.
  2. has anyone skied from newhalem to mazama or the other way around? i know the skoogs did it a while ago.
  3. thanks! i am particularly interested in spots where the avy danger is bad.
  4. Solo TRing with a Mini Traxion

    i do this all the time. it works great with a mini traxion and back up knots or two mini trax. i have to take up the slack by hand to keep it tight, but with vertical crack type climbs, this is not such a problem up to 12a
  5. Brush with Greatness

    I was on the nose and tommy caldwell and beth rodden were right ahead of us - they were just going to dolt tower with a client. caldwell led off, and before beth started to climb, i found myself staring at her belay loop. "hmmm", i thought, "beth rodden's belay loop..." then i thought, "hey look, she has two mini traxions attached to her belay loop!" i asked what was up, and she told me about her tr solo rig. she was ascending solo on a fixed line with mini traxions while tommy dealt with their client errr friend. "Tommy showed it to me," she said, and then she was gone. thats how i learned how to get great mileage in on tr solo, by looking at beth rodden's belay loop.
  6. this is a very nice trip report and you seem like very nice young men. i am sorry to hear about your pants. i would like to do this route, but worry that i am too weak and timid. can you assure me about the chimney pitch and the traverse under the roof? are these very, very run out? will they make me feel even more insecure? thank you for your help.
  7. That was my first trip into the mountains in five years. All in all, it was pretty mellow.
  8. backbone ridge

    anyone want to do dragontail this weekend or next week?
  9. i want to do lexington, chianti, clean break. anyone been up there and know how much snow is around? crampons??
  10. colin haley? i saw him the other day and didn't get any contact info. thanks
  11. midnight rock sunday

    if the weather is good i would like to do centerfold at index either sat or sun
  12. Anyone want to climb at WWI sat or sun? the steeper routes stay dry...
  13. partner wanted

    check your pm
  14. April 1st weekend

    I want to get to Smith or to China Bend/ Marcus area on the weekend of April 1. Work 12+ to 13- sport. have been living in california and climbing at jailhouse and in the valley. pm me if you want to meet up. i am moving back this week and will be living in seattle. scott
  15. bolting laws

    ok - so what are the rules on machine bolting in national forest land - wilderness area. i assume hand bolts only? and save me the lecture.
  16. bolting laws

  17. i am moving back to seattle in may and will want partners for smith and little si (chronic etc), and as the weather improves, index, leavenworth and the north cascades. i climb yosemite 11 and work hard 12 to 13- sport. i want to do passenger route and vanishing point this summer. pm me if you are interested.
  18. Protecting yourself on CC.com

    and wear a rubber folks, the chickz around here are skeazy...
  19. I've got pictures of you sketching on 5.9 That was at least 5.9+... And I have pictures of you... oh wait that was supposed be our little secret... ill be back to pester you next year, i think.
  20. alex has a dirty pie hole
  21. Infinite bliss

  22. Retro Bolting at Index

    the pitch between godzilla and slow children -- the first and only sucks and it is right off the anchor.
  23. Bolting Sport Routes

    the only problem i have is with truly dangerous (bone breaking / death) fall potential on rap bolted routes. its not fair to have the first ascent toprope a dangerous route into submission and then expect everyone else to lead it ground up.