crackers Posted October 21, 2008 Posted October 21, 2008 Two weeks ago...more this weekend if we can manage: That's my wife. That's her climbing only 6 months after her ankle distraction. It was our first time climbing together in four years and change. It made me SUPER happy! The walk out from East ship to the top of the path was the crux. It took us about an hour and a half. She was done! But we're planning on heading back... Quote
billcoe Posted October 21, 2008 Author Posted October 21, 2008 don't click the link on Crackers post! don't click the link ! don't click that link ! Glad she's doing so well. Lots of stainless and stiches. Sick pic if ya click the link. Glad you got some rays in before the long winter rain comes. Is that Lions Jaw...Kunza Corner...? Quote
ivan Posted October 21, 2008 Posted October 21, 2008 SO how hard is Riverside? the bluebook value is 10b - never climbed in the valley, but at beacon that's plenty hard - much harder than windsurfer i thought, which is the same rating Quote
Cobra_Commander Posted October 21, 2008 Posted October 21, 2008 windsurfer is 10a. that's my opinion. Quote
ivan Posted October 21, 2008 Posted October 21, 2008 windsurfer is 10a. that's my opinion. word - no harder than blownout firsure - you done riverside, cc? Quote
kevbone Posted October 21, 2008 Posted October 21, 2008 Ivan. Do you "free" blownout and windsurfer? Quote
ivan Posted October 21, 2008 Posted October 21, 2008 Ivan. Do you "free" blownout and windsurfer? yes why the quotation marks, 8-ball? Quote
kevbone Posted October 21, 2008 Posted October 21, 2008 Because you use your "fee fee" hook quite a bit. Windsurfer is hard. Blownout is 5.10 in my book. I think free for some easier to lead than blownout. Quote
Cobra_Commander Posted October 21, 2008 Posted October 21, 2008 ivan - I have not done riverside - looks interesting for sure. Windsurfer has big breaks like every 20 feet, it's like 3 climbs. Blownout has few breaks. I'm sure free for some can seem easy when you climb it a million times and have that digit move dialed in, but I think it's an intimidating lead as you can get hurt if you blow it. Quote
kevbone Posted October 21, 2008 Posted October 21, 2008 Ironically enough I have never felt like I could lead windsurfer clean. I have never fallin on top rope but barley get it….I have led free for some at least a dozen times and pipeline 3 or 4 times. Windsurfer just does not call me…….. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted October 21, 2008 Posted October 21, 2008 Riverside looks fun. Is it one of those climbs high up on the SW? As I remember FFS is a one move kinda route, Pipeline is a bit more sustained and offbalance and pro was harder to place, Blownout was straightforward jamming. All in all it would be hard to compare them to each other. Quote
el jefe Posted October 21, 2008 Posted October 21, 2008 i had a feeling that was the route. nice anchor. you must have had great confidence in your second. Quote
ivan Posted October 22, 2008 Posted October 22, 2008 oddly, that anchor inspired me plenty - 4 big ass chickenheads, plus i was in a stance where i could hold all the weight on my body pretty easy - plus, geoff never falls! you'll notice, kev, i rarely claim to "free" anything - i like having fun when climbing, and given my strength and technique, that requires resting pretty often it boggles me mind that you find free firsum easier to lead then blownout PP, yeah, riverside's way up there on the edge of grassy ledge and you'll never have to wait in line! the anchor's not too bad currently either and will get replaced soon enough i bet. Quote
mythosgrl Posted October 22, 2008 Posted October 22, 2008 2 weeks ago Last weekend in Boulder Canyon. Can't beat 75 degree October days! Quote
denalidave Posted October 22, 2008 Posted October 22, 2008 Ironically enough I have never felt like I could lead windsurfer clean. I have never fallin on top rope but barley get it….I have led free for some at least a dozen times and pipeline 3 or 4 times. Windsurfer just does not call me…….. I guess I'd better get back on Free for Some if it is easier than Windsurfer. I think I got on FFS one time the first summer I started climbing again in 2006 and did not fair well. Still trying to lead Blownout but don't think it will happen this year. Hopefully next summer though. I've heard from quite a few folks that Windsurfer is the easiest 10b at Beacon. Blownout could well be the hardest 10a, the crux at the top feels much more like 10c/d to me, but what the hell do I know? I'm just a wanna-be-posin-sorta-has-been... Quote
el jefe Posted October 22, 2008 Posted October 22, 2008 just kidding. girth-hitched chickenheads make great pro, and the chickenheads on outer space are unbelievable. Quote
billcoe Posted October 28, 2008 Author Posted October 28, 2008 flatirons (Boulder) from the other side isn't it? Quote
crazy_t Posted October 28, 2008 Posted October 28, 2008 Huston crack (old school 5.8+ OW) on the left, base of Cob Rock Quote
wimsey Posted November 14, 2008 Posted November 14, 2008 Glad she's doing so well. Lots of stainless and stiches. Sick pic if ya click the link. Glad you got some rays in before the long winter rain comes. Is that Lions Jaw...Kunza Corner...? Pack animal direct? Quote
RuMR Posted November 14, 2008 Posted November 14, 2008 I'd post a pic but I get this. "Sorry, you don't have permission to upload photos." who'd i piss off now?? I can't upload pics? Good thing cuz i wuz gonna post my middle finger... Quote
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