Need Parka Advice

[jmo]

I'm looking for a parka for Mountaineering and winter camping. Something that can fit over a vest or softshell fleece. Don't want to spend too much money either. Preferably 100 or less. Any suggestions?

[DPS]

My advice would be to get a synthetic, mid weight parka with a hood. I stopped using down because I could not keep it dry while winter alpine climbing/ice climbing. Go to Second Ascent in Ballard and pick one up there. They always have a nice selection of well priced parkas.

[Maine-iac]

I have the same question. I have been trying to compare them from many different companies, and none of them say about fill weights. Any thoughts on Patagonia's DAS, or Down parka, or OR's Megaplume?

[Jeff W]

I have the Patagonia DAS parka and am very happy with it. The DAS parka is cut large to fit over your other gear, including a climbing helmet. They are extremely light and come with a stuff sack that packs very small. I put it in my summit pack and it really takes up little room. The DAS stays warm when wet which is a key factor in the NW. It was worth every penny I paid for it.

[Baltoro]

Also check out Marmot Mountain Works in Bellevue. They've got some racks of clearance stuff over by the shoes.

[dbconlin]

I have the Patagonia DAS parka and am very happy with it. The DAS parka is cut large to fit over your other gear, including a climbing helmet. They are extremely light and come with a stuff sack that packs very small. I put it in my summit pack and it really takes up little room. The DAS stays warm when wet which is a key factor in the NW. It was worth every penny I paid for it.

 

I too have/love the DAS - it is the premier synthetic overcoat for full conditions, but I have to take exception to the statements about light weight and small - there are lots of lighter/smaller jackets out there, especially once you start looking at down.

 

As Dan Smith stated, synthetic is the way to go, though, if the conditions suck (i.e. winter in the Cascades).

[ericb]

I have the Patagonia DAS parka and am very happy with it. The DAS parka is cut large to fit over your other gear, including a climbing helmet. They are extremely light and come with a stuff sack that packs very small. I put it in my summit pack and it really takes up little room. The DAS stays warm when wet which is a key factor in the NW. It was worth every penny I paid for it.

 

I too have/love the DAS - it is the premier synthetic overcoat for full conditions, but I have to take exception to the statements about light weight and small - there are lots of lighter/smaller jackets out there, especially once you start looking at down.

 

As Dan Smith stated, synthetic is the way to go, though, if the conditions suck (i.e. winter in the Cascades).

The DAS is great, and relatively light, but very bulky in the pack

[Dan_Miller]

Don't overlook the 'Dolomitti' by Integral Design. It's primaloft with Pertex outer fabric; and 'weightwise,' it's right in there with the Das Parka.

 

Two years now, and I've been real happy with it as a basic colder weather belay parka. I've a lighter weight synthetic parka (old Go-lite 'Coal') used during summer months. I would use the Dolomitti at any time on Rainier or higher for certain.

 

More food for thought.

[Kraken]

it costs a lot, but Arcteryx's new Dually Belay Parka is super warm, lighter than the DAS, and even more water resistant than the DAS. I picked one up and can't wait for it to get cold enough for me to use it.

 

 

[Blake]

Get Feathered Friends to make you a down parka with an eVent shell.

[tvashtarkatena]

I've got a Feathered Friends Volant (old) and Mountain Hardwear Phantom (new). Both comparable, both 800 fill down, and both great jackets. About a pound each and very compact.

 

FF has snap on hoods (recommended) for $50 or so and they'll put their snaps on any jacket at the factory for you.

 

$100 is going to be a problem for anything decent unless you can find something at 2nd Ascent or the REI basement. Down jackets last a long time, and there's a big difference between a good one and a cheap one, so go nuts with the credit card if you have to. It's worth it.

Edited September 9, 2008 by tvashtarkatena

[Hugh Conway]

I have a DAS. it's nice, but not uber packable. Can be picked up for $100 new places.

 

otherwise I'd gut TTK and sleep in him like a tauntaun

[tvashtarkatena]

You'll probably want to take advice from folks who are actually warm blooded.

[WageSlave]

They have the Wild Things guide jacket (the one thats lighter than the Belay Jacket) at 2nd Ascents for 150 last time I was there. I got one and its toasty and small.

[mattp]

I am a believer in down. Yes, you have to pay more attention to keeping it dry, but I have very rarely had problems in this regard.

 

My Feathered Friends down sweater with a very light shell fabric DOES get wet and flatten even on a short trip, so I rarely use it. I have a Wild Things synthetic that is similar in weight and I have never thought it performed particularly well though it does dry faster when it gets wet. Light is not right for me with respect this particular piece of gear.

 

I have had no problem at all with my cheapo crude down jacket with a relatively heavy fabric shell or with my more expensive Feathered Friends down jacket with a waterproof breathable shell. I don't wear them in rain, and if it is cold enough I'm wearing them while actively climbing I find it is generally not wet enough that they are getting soaked -- at least not from the outside (maybe from sweat or wearing wet clothes inside them).

 

I routinely carry my down jacket near the top of my pack or stuffed inside a side zipper where I pull it out and put it away a lot and most of the time I end up wearing it at rest stops or at camp.

[Joe_Poulton]

I like the Mountain Hardwear Belay and Chugach combo...had many mid winter open bivouacs in Colorado with this set up...extremely warm.

[Plinko]

I currently have the OR Neoplume and I'm way more impressed with it than my old DAS.

[mccallboater]

I have the old-style (2006) Sierra Designs Primaloft Chockstone jacket that is great, but I notice the this year's version doesn't have all the great climbing-specific touches. The hood's smaller, the thumb loops are gone, and I think the large mesh water bottle pockets on the inside are gone. Not as puffy either. You might find the old one on close out cheap somewhere.

[genepires]

save up money and buy a good (will be expensive) down feathered friends volant. You will be happy years from now when the money won't seem too much. If you buy cheap now, you will buy expensive when you have learned the lesson.

[dbconlin]

If you buy cheap now, you will buy expensive when you have learned the lesson.

 

Amen to that!

[josephfazioli]

I have a mountain hardwear subzero parka. It's relatively packable, down, and has a waterproof/breathable shell, which is schmantzy. I've had it out in SUPER cold temps (pushing the -40F range), in horrible sleet/freezing rain, and to the summit of Mt Whitney. It performed admirably in all situations, and is super, super warm.

[hkrhnk11]

Does anyone have an opinion on the mont bell permafrost down parka?

[Dane]

Patagonia micro puff synthetic parka. Well under $100 new on feebay if you look around. Most of the guys I have climbed with in the last few years have been using one instead of a DAS...both in Canada in winter and here locally.

 

Built to layer over your gear and a helmet I liked my first one so much I bought a second one size down to use in less extreme conditions. They actually are very light, pack small and offer a good level of insulation.

[DPS]

Patagonia micro puff synthetic parka.

 

I have one and agree with Dane's assessment.

[genepires]

there is a good video on the mtn athelete site with some exum guide talking about his layering system. His puffy system was two thin puffies instead of one big one. That way he had diversity in temp use. Interesting idea and worth thinking about if you don't already have a regular big puffy.

 

I have both the micro puff and das and haven't used the das yet, even with lots of trips to banff and such. Seems like if it is that cold (for the das) maybe I don't want to be out.