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josephfazioli

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About josephfazioli

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  1. Hoodys for climbing?

    So i just got an arcteryx covert hoody from steepandcheap.com. At first, I was super bummed, because the material they use now is nothing like the covert half zip I got a couple of years ago. The new stuff is a loose weave, and doesn't resist wind or snow like the old one. however, with that being said, I finally wore it out climbing with a shell over it. My opinion totally changed then. I guess its not intended as an outer layer- its super warm when the wind isn't slicing through it. The hood is great, too- scuba style, but not too snug. Ive worn better pieces, but this one is still manufactured in canada, which I like, and it was relatively inexpensive on S&C. 8/10.
  2. La Sportiva TRango Boots: Prime Vs Extreme

    I've got the extremes and I have to say, they are the best boot I've ever worn. I had the trango ice for a while (loaner when I was working at a shop) and I hated them for everything except steep ice. The extremes hike really well and are surprisingly warm. They got me through a brutally cold ice climbing season in upstate NY.
  3. Wild Things Ice Sac - no rope strap?

    Mine had a rope strap. Weird.
  4. Need Parka Advice

    I have a mountain hardwear subzero parka. It's relatively packable, down, and has a waterproof/breathable shell, which is schmantzy. I've had it out in SUPER cold temps (pushing the -40F range), in horrible sleet/freezing rain, and to the summit of Mt Whitney. It performed admirably in all situations, and is super, super warm.
  5. Alpine solo tent selection help?

    Just out to defend BD- Dan's already made his decision. I've got a BD firstlight. I've had it out a few times, and my only complaint is condensation. I was out for 3 days in the NY adirondacks in horrible sleet, and the fabric didn't leak. Unfortunately, without a vestibule, I had to close the door entirely, preventing a good crossbreeze to eliminate the condensation. I woke up and had to sponge down the top, but that was about it. It does much better in higher, dryer, environments. Unbelievably stable in high winds in the sierras and the NH whites. Also, it is set up from the inside, which is rather nice when it's pissing freezing rain.
  6. Headlamp Choices

    I've got a BD vectra IQ, and I've been super happy with it. It's extremely bright, has tremendous battery life, and has that nifty little blinking light that helps me find it in the tent at night. I've also got a surefire Z2 led combatlight. If you want to talk about bright- that is it. Two CR123s and an "unregulated" LED spit out about 100 lumens for around 8 hours. It really, REALLY is bright enough to temporarily blind someone. I wanted to see how serious they were so I shined it at myself. And was blinded. In the middle of the afternoon. It was like looking into the sun.
  7. Where's the snow?

    Anyone know where I can find some snow? When I ask most people, I generally get "Up high." Yeah, I understand that, but where? I want to take my gf and dog out winter camping someplace relatively accessible. Hopefully I can find something within 2 hours of Bellingham. Being from the east coast, I'm missing the snow in the city and just want to sleep on some soon. I'm going out next wednesday-thursday. Any ideas? PS No glaciers, because of the dog and gf lack of experience.
  8. Sehome Hill Bouldering = Worthless Garbage

    While I wouldn't say "high-quality problems," I wouldn't give it such a terrible rap either. I come from a place where the only things rock-like to climb are brick arches scattered around the city. It's nice to be able to walk 15 minutes, hop on a boulder and not have to run when the cops show up. What is with boulderers being such haters? "You got it dude!" "Totally... that wasn't a V4 though, it was like, a V5 at least." Just be happy being outside.
  9. Bozeman Ice Fest December 5-7

    Where are you guys driving from?
  10. Climbing Nov 14-17- Suggestions?

    oh yeah... I'm in bellingham, WA, so preferably within striking distance of here.
  11. Climbing Nov 14-17- Suggestions?

    Hi, I'm Joe. I'm new to the area and I'm looking for suggestions for a climb/adventure/whatever. The party will be 3-5 people. I'm experienced in a wide range of winter climbing, and I'm trained in Avalanche safety/rescue and crevasse rescue. the others range from winter hiking experience to another climber who has been out with me a lot and I trust his skills. I suggested Baker, but they have nay-said it- mostly because one of the guy's brothers was like "Don't do it." If there is any ice that is climbable, I'd totally be into setting a nice big camp and climbing at our leisure- but I"m guessing nothing is stable enough. Ideas?
  12. New to Forum, need boot advice

    I wear Lasportiva trango extreme evo lights, http://sportiva.com/products/prod/336. They are absurdly light and quite warm- I've worn them up Mt Whitney in march, Mt Washington (NH) in February, and dozens of long days in the Adirondacks. They provide enough support and rigidity for technical mixed climbing but remain light and comfortable enough to hike in without crampons. I've worn all-leather boots (Lasportiva Makalus and Lasportiva lhotse) and plastic double boots- (Koflach Degre) but these are by far the best boot i've worn for 99% of conditions. The only thing is that you will want to replace the insole that comes with them. It doesn't provide much comfort, support, or insulation. I put Superfeet in them and it made a huge difference. Make sure you bring the insoles you will have in them when you go to the store. I also found that the sizing for lasportiva is anything but uniform. I'm in a 42 approach, 43 mountain running, and a 42.5 mountaineering boot. Try them on.
  13. FA of Tupshin Peak's North Face

    Alpinist Issue 21 shows a glorious picture of Tupshin Peak's North Face, and reports it as unclimbed. Does anyone know the veracity of this caption? I mean, it looks like it could have one or two great routes up it, and it surprises me that no one has tried it (or at least completed it) yet. Any info? Thanks.
  14. ice axe arrest stories

    I had a scary moment practicing with a clinic in the NY adirondacks. I was wearing a full goretex suit and moved WAY faster than even before. I managed to stop before I hit the trees, but I covered about 100 meters in what felt like 2 seconds. I was also using a cassin ski-mountaineering axe that slid through the snow like a hot knife through butter substitutes. Scaaaaary.
  15. Lyme disease

    I've got lyme disease- I didn't present the bullseye rash, but just a general rash. After two full cycles of antibiotics (azithromyocin and cipro), I still test positive. Mainly, I'm just tired, but occasionally my joints hurt beyond belief. You should maintain a good diet, rich in aminos and such. I'm totally slacking off on the diet, and I could sleep like 15 hours a day. I still climb all the time and ride my bike. No sweat dude, you'll be all right.
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