Mount Index info request

[Panos]

Hi there,

 

Given the good forecast for the following weekend I am considering giving it a go to solo climb the Mount Index NF or even do the traverse of the mountain. Here is my question: should I take crampons (alu or 6-point) and a small and light ice axe (may also serve as a hammer in case it's needed) or the gullies are expected to be mostly snow free. I would appreciate responses from people who have climbed those routes.

 

Thank you

Panos

Edited October 24, 2007 by Panos

[ivan]

i've done the traverse and would be skeptical of soloing it at the moment w/o getting to give it a good stare down first - while it's not technically all that hard, many portions could be scarey if lightly covered in crappy snow/ice. colin did the full traverse last winter, look for his tr. don't minimize this climb b/c it's near the road - it's a real deal grade v, and the descent (at least if tryign to do it in the clouds like we did) is not at all easy or strait-forward.

[Panos]

Surely dude, you are right.

I do not think I am underestimating the climb. It is definitely not winter yet and I am not thinking of climbing mixed or verglass anyway, at least not before I have done the route as a rock climb first. I would appreciate answers to my question from people who have climbed those routes.

[Bug]

Ivan knows the route and is a solid climber. Just an fyi.

[ericb]

Ivan knows the route and is a solid climber. Just an fyi.

 

can't you read??....he would appreciate answers to his question from people who have climbed those routes....apparently Ivan is only "person" and therefore doesn't qualify

[Panos]

 

No offense Ivan, thank you for your advice and accept my apologies for my tone. Basically you are saying that it is quite likely one would find fresh white powder up there. The forecast did give snow up there last week but the face looks clean ... I should better go to the Smith rock with my friends then and leave this for next July. Cheers guys

[ivan]

no worries - it's the interweb, which is basically thunderdome - i like wearing my tina turner outfit!

 

shit - if you've seen the peaks lately and they look clean, then you'll most likely find the route in summer shape - if you're a strong, competent climber then soloing the traverse is not unreasonable - the crux is def getting out of the notch between the n and middle peaks - i woulda been really scared soloing it, as it's kinda crumbly and steep w/ a dickload of exposure - i'd go prepared for a bivy somewhere though, unless you're colin-fast - the days are short now and again, the descent is tricky, tricky and i doubt i could do it in the dark

 

it's an awesome route, so def do it sometime - then the ne butt of jo'burg, then nooksack tower for the bushwacker trifecta!

[Panos]

Okay.

 

I have to say though that I got lost with your slang.

Consider that I am very new in the US ;o)

 

All the best

 

 

Edited October 24, 2007 by Panos

[rob]

Dan and I did the route in October once. I would not recommend it.

Edited October 24, 2007 by robmcdan

[Panos]

Hurray, I managed to decode the first bit. I bet you suggest me to try the NE buttress of Johannesburg! The remaining part of the phrase is very cryptic for a newcomer.

 

Edited October 24, 2007 by Panos

[Blake]

Panos, this climb is going to be icy/wet and not really in either summer or winter conditions. I'd guess there has been a lot of melt-freeze up there that likely loosened up things even more without truly freezing them in winter conditions.

 

I have not done this climb.

 

Why not climb across the road at the town walls?

Edited October 24, 2007 by Blake

[wayne]

If you think Ivan is confusing online...

[Choada_Boy]

NE Buttress Johanesburg might be a better choice this time of year, now that you mention it.

[chucK]

Oooo yeah! Really steep heather covered with about 4" of snow. Sweet!

[ivan]

Oooo yeah! Really steep heather covered with about 4" of snow. Sweet!

you mean you don't put your crampons on for that part in the summer?!?

[Otto]

Oooo yeah! Really steep heather covered with about 4" of snow. Sweet!

 

ChucK, he might not gather your sarcasm, either. Interweb as Thunderdome, I love it!

[kevbone]

i like wearing my tina turner outfit!

 

Will you be wearing it on Friday? Please!

[sobo]

Panos,

I have not done the traverse, but have done the NF of North Peak at least twice that I can remember (maybe three times?). By my reckoning of the recent weather patterns, you will find the north-facing gully just after the "monkey traverse of the hanging gardens" quite wet, probably even running water. It was running water every damn time we did the route, and we did not find any decent protection for that pitch (but if you're going to solo it, that isn't going to matter to you anyway) until almost the top out at the ridge (the climbing on that ridge on the way to the summit is spectacularly exposed (but trivial) on your right - way cool!). Lower down in the gulley we had to scrape up thru wet heather to get to the running water - not fun. But if you can get thru that bit without pitching off the face, you should do just fine. Regarding crampons/ice axes at this time of year, I would not think you would need them. Blake is right, though, the route is going to be neither in summer nor winter conditions. But I can guarantee you it will be wet.

 

When rapping back down from the top of the ridge above the wet gulley, take care so you don't let your rope get blown into the pine tree...

[Panos]

In contrast to spray this is quite informative, thank you. I will remember your note. I have climbed icy wet and mossy chimneys in the Dolomites and it was not fun. I pressume the gully you mention is in the 5.4-5.6 range and that is "the exit from the north face bowl" mentioned in books.

[ivan]

In contrast to spray this is quite informative, thank you. I will remember your note. I have climbed icy wet and mossy chimneys in the Dolomites and it was not fun. I pressume the gully you mention is in the 5.4-5.6 range and that is "the exit from the north face bowl" mentioned in books.

yup - man, i remember doing that bowl in the bone-dry days of august and being mildly freaked by the total lack of protection - doing that in the soaking wet? yoowza!

[Sol]

NF of Mt Index didn't have much snow on it, but was glistening brightly in the sun yesterday, its soaked brah!

[builder206]

I have climbed icy wet and mossy chimneys in the Dolomites

 

From what I have read of the Dolomites, you left heaven to climb in hell.

[sobo]

In contrast to spray this is quite informative, thank you. I will remember your note.

Your welcome.

 

I have climbed icy wet and mossy chimneys in the Dolomites and it was not fun.

Neither will this be. As I recall the exposure from this gulley, a pitch off the face will in all probablility be fatal.

 

I pressume the gully you mention is in the 5.4-5.6 range and that is "the exit from the north face bowl" mentioned in books.

I don't recall the rating, but it is the exit from the NF bowl, yes. It seemed an awful lot harder than mid-5th class when it's running water. I still don't know how I led it. More than once.

 

Good luck, and enjoy your climb. Write a TR when you get back. It's a great climb, and I'd love to relive it again vicariously through you.

[sobo]

yup - man, i remember doing that bowl in the bone-dry days of august and being mildly freaked by the total lack of protection - doing that in the soaking wet? yoowza!

 

I was younger then... and stoopid. More than once, too.

[Buckaroo]

This would be about the hardest time to do the traverse. The NF bowl is an exposed rock face made up of small steps, ranging in size from 1" to 4 ". The edges are all very rounded and the rock is really smooth. The best way to climb it is free solo, because for about 2 pitches there is almost zero pro. It's only 5.6 but it hardly ever dries out this time of year.

 

I soloed the NF in June one time, completely dry, can't imagine doing it wet. Could be done, but not by me. And like Becky says, the wetness increases rockfall. Even if it's not raining you get soaked because the brush doesn't dry out this time of year.

 

If you don't know the descent then it's going to take you 2 days, because you're going to be in the dark by then with the short days. Now your carrying more gear for overnight and combine that with wet rock.

 

If you want to get a taste of the mountain this year do the East route of Main Peak. That's the normal descent from the traverse and it really helps to climb it and know it before doing the traverse.

 

I just wrote a TR on the ascent of the East Route a few weeks ago. And here's some other links to TR's on these peaks.

 

Trip Report

 

Old Trip Report

 

Old Trip Report