Panos

In like new condition. Size "Regular". No vestibule. My girlfriend bought this as a birthday present but it feels too short for my legs (I am 6'.2"). It retails for $500. Come and grab it for $340. Call: six08-seven70-5three7five or send me a PM. Panos

Hello, Anybody who has time to go to Squamish for a couple of days? 5.8-5.10a free routes or aid up to C2+. PM me if interested. Panos

Hey man, Bugs are very far for such a short trip... Would you be interested in climbing Slesse instead, or going to climb something at the Pickets ? 206-766-0913 Panos

Hi dude, I am interested in the N. ridge of Stuart or something on Dragontail (forecast looks good for that area). I am free this Sat-Sun-Mon. I also want to hit Liberty Ridge but this weekend it might be too cloudy up there according to the forecast. Any other ideas welcome. Ibex

Dude, you are power. Congratulations for sending this. What technical difficulties did you encounter? I know little about this route... F.B. says it is a 5.7, but this means little in winter...

I am in. Can drive from Seattle. PMs sent.

Yeah, let's wait and see what the weather is going to bring. Then decide.

Okay, forget all about the Carbon river approach. It is a pain. The approach via: White River road -> Glacier basin -> Elmo pass -> Upper Curtis ridge -> Carbon glacier is so much faster and I believe quite safe in winter. Even if the gate at junction with HY410 is closed (as for winter) one can use a sledge all the way up to 4500' and from there continue on foot/skis. The crossing with Winthrop glacier does not look so difficult actually. I was up there today (early December) and crevasses looked pretty covered already. Even in winter conditions and carrying equipment and supplies it should be just a long day to reach upper Curtis ridge (7200'). Then a shorter second day up to Thumb rock (rest, eat and acclimatize) and the final push with descent on the third day. Supplies should be for one more day though.... Today it took me 8:15 car-to-car from the gate at HY410 to camp Schurman and back. Emmons glacier looked already pretty covered up with wind blown snow (hard pack it was all the way up at the Inter glacier). If there are long gaps between snow-depositing-storms this winter, LR may come in good shape sooner than later.

The bridge is still there intact, but, as I wrote above, the trail between the lower and the upper crossing (suspension bridge) at the right side of the river as one goes up the valley is completely gone at places. However, in winter the river flow is low and with sufficient care one can hike up in the river bed and cross the river where/if needed.

See also approach via Glacier basin below. On Thanksgiving day I walked up to Mystic lake to get an idea of how this approach will look in the late winter. I just make some notes here for remembering the facts. 1) The road that used to take to the rangers' station is washed out about 0.2m before the station. I hope that it stays accessible to that point all winter. The elevation at the dead end is about 1750'. 2) The Carbon river road that used to take to the Ipsut camp is a TOTAL MESS after the floods of November 2006 and 2008. Last year in another post somebody suggested me to take a dog sledge for the approach... With the conditions as they are now it would be totally impossible to pass some sections by any means other than carrying your stuff on your back - no sledges, no yaks, no canines even no skis would pass the jungle of fallen trees and wash-outs of the road. At these passages (river crossings) one has to balance on several fallen trees. That would be easier with crampons. From car to the Ipsut camp it took me about 1 hour (using my bicycle at the first half). 3) Not only the road is washed out but the same is true for parts of the trail after the Ipsut camp. For example, at the "lower crossing" one HAS to cross the river bed and search for the path at the other side in the woods, because the trail that used to follow the right side of the river up to the suspension bridge has disappeared completely at places. 4) From the car (1750') to the saddle (6100') right before Mystic lake it took me about 4.5 hours. One can certainly approach the lower Curtis ridge (6900') with a heavy load (winter gear + skis + supplies) and in deep snow from the car in a long day. 5) The second day can bring someone up to Thumb rock, which is essential for acclimatization. Then a third day can be the summit day and part of the descend (Emmons, DC, Giblartar Ledges or any other route). 6) Perhaps, the approach from White river (crossing the Winthrop glacier after Elmo pass before dropping onto Carbon glacier at about 7200') would be more practical for three reasons: (i) you start from a higher elevation, and (ii) you do not have to deal with any jungle of fallen trees, and (iii) you can return to your parked vehicle more easily. On the other hand, though, if one is mad enough to go alone, crossing one more glacier unroped is not a smart choice! 7) These are plans for March or April, after some time has passed from the last snow-depositing-storm allowing the snow pack to settle. Also, a good weather window is required. Avalanche/snow conditions should be evaluated on route constantly - it might be too sketchy... Any thoughts welcome. Panos

Hello folks, At thanksgiving I am going to Whistler for skiing and I would be interested to have a rest day from skiing doing some ice climbing instead. Is there any steep ice in condition in the area ? Any guide book ? Any internet resources ? Any help would be much appreciated. I am also looking for a partner since my skiing friends do not ice climb. I lead WI4+. Cheers, Ibex

You name it: Hood, Adams, Baker, Helens ? Any route to go on skis (up and down) in a long day push. Recommendations welcome. PM me if interested. Panos

Nice, thanks for the speaking pictures! Yet, four weeks it is a long time It would be nice to try something on Hood. For this weekend however it would not be safe to try anything there, exept if the wind thu-sat hits the slope/ridge/route almost at right angle preventing wind-drift accumulation and possibly helping rime formation... Dreams of an fall night. I will be checking that too. Maybe see you there

What do yo mean ? I just want to climb something.

It might be okay for the Yocum ridge (?) ...or I am totally mistaken. What do you think ?

I cannot say really. Not only I did not have binoculars but I did not even have a camera to zoom, or at least my glasses... ha ha! But my friends could see better. One thing is certain, that the Roman Wall faces south and it was a very warm day with warm air blowing from the ocean.

It was indeed deadly warm. We were staring at Baker, first from the "Brunette" North Twin Sister (west ridge was totally dry) and today from Ptarmigan Ridge (near Table mountain, pretty rocky there still wait another 2-3 weeks for enjoyable skiing). We saw that a huge avalanche occurred at Roman Wall - I am glad we did not go there...

I see... Thanks G-spotter.

...

Snow would not stop us provided it will not give us a ride down the face ! I am only thinking about avalanche danger... Is the angle of the snow ramps steep enough to save us from this danger? Has there been any wind loading? Tell us more about this "Klenke et al" climb.

Lincoln Peak east face wall looks sheer at the map. Are there any ice climbs up there?

Hi folks, I just wonder how Colfax may look like in the coming weekend. Any clues ? Anybody who has been up there in the last couple of days (!) ? My guess would be that with the recent relatively warm temps the new snow / rain will quickly become part of the wall. Any different speculations ? Ibex

Okay! Let's close this post here PM me if you have any good instructor in mind who can provide (sporadicly) 2-hour lessons at Alpental. Thank you folks.

Ha ha, funny! I just watched "Steep" yesterday night. Some (but not all) of these guys sound mentally deprived. Alaska looked nice though...

Surely man, I will first learn how to make short linked turns at the open steeps and the bumps before I venture into the trees. Yet, high-speed collision with a conifer is top in the list of what I want to accomplish. Jens, thanks for your valuable advice. I will definitely try some shots with my Olympus at the video mode. I am also thinking of putting a sign at the back of my jacket: Good Instructor Needed. Be blond, young and female is preferred but not required. 2hrs $100