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[TR] Kyrgyzstan - Ak Sai Glacier - Peak Free Korea - North Face - Barber Route 10/14/2007


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Posted

Trip: Kyrgyzstan - Ak Sai Glacier - Peak Free Korea - North Face - Barber Route

 

Date: 10/14/2007

 

Trip Report:

Here's some photos from a short climbing adventure in Kyrgyzstan:

 

 

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The trail to the Ak Sai glacier looks like most trails.

 

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Above Ratsek hut the path follows the moraine beside the spilling ice fall of the Ak Sai, and Peak Free Korea starts to come into view.

 

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Like all civilized alpine venues, cell-phone reception is excellent.

 

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"Food is Power" ... "Speck is the first food of all Russian Climbers".

 

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Even at midday the North Face gets no sun. We spend a day busting a trail through the heavy powder and fixing a rope across the bergschrund.

 

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700m of climbing below us, we approach the crux exit ice ribbon to reach the summit ridge.

 

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The summit at last, a quick photo of Dima.

 

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A quick photo of me.

 

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The sun sets across the Tien Shan. Time for a dark and long descent.

 

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Tired out now. Time to pack up the teapot and head back to Bishkek.

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Posted

speck is smoked pork fat. so the recipe is probably something like: 1) kill pig, 2) hang over smoky fire

 

no immediate plans to go back soon, though I will likely be over there again in 2008.

Posted (edited)

here is a photo topo. Red is the Barber route. Yellow is the Lowe route. Blue is the descent route down the upper Barber route (ice face) and lower Andreeva route (rock buttress)

 

phototopo.jpg

 

Edited by fern
Posted

Damn that is a long ways to go to do a Barber route? Running out of Barber routes to climb in the PNW? Either way looked like some good climbing and purdy mountains in K-stan.

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