fern Posted October 22, 2007 Share Posted October 22, 2007 Trip: Kyrgyzstan - Ak Sai Glacier - Peak Free Korea - North Face - Barber Route Date: 10/14/2007 Trip Report: Here's some photos from a short climbing adventure in Kyrgyzstan: The trail to the Ak Sai glacier looks like most trails. Above Ratsek hut the path follows the moraine beside the spilling ice fall of the Ak Sai, and Peak Free Korea starts to come into view. Like all civilized alpine venues, cell-phone reception is excellent. "Food is Power" ... "Speck is the first food of all Russian Climbers". Even at midday the North Face gets no sun. We spend a day busting a trail through the heavy powder and fixing a rope across the bergschrund. 700m of climbing below us, we approach the crux exit ice ribbon to reach the summit ridge. The summit at last, a quick photo of Dima. A quick photo of me. The sun sets across the Tien Shan. Time for a dark and long descent. Tired out now. Time to pack up the teapot and head back to Bishkek. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted October 22, 2007 Share Posted October 22, 2007 inFERNo! Nice TR girl! Did you get a good recipe for speck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj001f Posted October 22, 2007 Share Posted October 22, 2007 Interesting, very interesting. You spending much time their this winter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted October 22, 2007 Share Posted October 22, 2007 Great photos..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted October 22, 2007 Author Share Posted October 22, 2007 speck is smoked pork fat. so the recipe is probably something like: 1) kill pig, 2) hang over smoky fire no immediate plans to go back soon, though I will likely be over there again in 2008. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted October 22, 2007 Share Posted October 22, 2007 Cool! That looks like uncooked bacon there. Yum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazy_t Posted October 22, 2007 Share Posted October 22, 2007 Kruto! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carolyn Posted October 22, 2007 Share Posted October 22, 2007 Nice Fern! Im glad you got over there and found some time to climb!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlympicMtnBoy Posted October 22, 2007 Share Posted October 22, 2007 Nice, kinda makes me wanna go back, cept I liked the rock farther south better. Congrads on a nice summit. Did you go there just to climb or some other connection? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 Beautiful pics Fern. That looks like a gem! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanstaafl Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 Rad. Looks like NW Face of N Ridge of Forbidden was just a nice little warmup for that. Water ice or kicking steps most of the way? Take me next time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted October 23, 2007 Author Share Posted October 23, 2007 death by frontpoint. I could barely walk the next 4 days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanstaafl Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 Didja have to frontpoint all the way down the same way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted October 24, 2007 Author Share Posted October 24, 2007 (edited) here is a photo topo. Red is the Barber route. Yellow is the Lowe route. Blue is the descent route down the upper Barber route (ice face) and lower Andreeva route (rock buttress) Edited October 24, 2007 by fern Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmace Posted October 24, 2007 Share Posted October 24, 2007 Wicked!! And you thought work would mean less climbing.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted October 24, 2007 Author Share Posted October 24, 2007 it has. by a long measure. but now I get to fly business class to my climbing spots Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted October 26, 2007 Share Posted October 26, 2007 Right on Fern. Pig is the best food source ever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted October 26, 2007 Share Posted October 26, 2007 Damn that is a long ways to go to do a Barber route? Running out of Barber routes to climb in the PNW? Either way looked like some good climbing and purdy mountains in K-stan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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