rob Posted September 27, 2007 Posted September 27, 2007 Nabbed my first 9 lead yesterday on Roger's Corner. It probably doesn't seem like much to you hardmen out there but I've been pushing myself hard all year to reach this goal before the season ended. So now I figure I've earned a good spray about it. Thanks, Lukic, for the patient belay. I had some....thoughtful moments. Gotta keep pushing it! I wanna lead some of the gendarme pitches on Stuart NR next year. Quote
wayne Posted September 27, 2007 Posted September 27, 2007 YES, Keep pushing it Rob. push your technique and pro placement too. Learn to stem well and take advantage of rests. Quote
jclark Posted September 27, 2007 Posted September 27, 2007 Wayto go. I started climbing early this year and my goal is to lead 8's. I can follow 10's, but haven't started leading yet. What routes are good at index to begin leading. I have only been once and it all seemed stiff. What about L-worth? Congrats again. Quote
Sargent_Rock Posted September 27, 2007 Posted September 27, 2007 Way to go, man! Good job. Believe it or not, I can still remember my first 5.7 lead. I can remember the pro (1 1/2 inch angle) and the beautiful afternoon light on the rock. In this sport it doesn't matter what "hard men" think. It's about you reaching your goals and the effort you put in. Sweet, dude! I know how you feel. Quote
TimL Posted September 27, 2007 Posted September 27, 2007 (edited) Rogers Corner has Tricky stemming sequence at the crux. Good job. Edited September 27, 2007 by TimL Quote
AlpineK Posted September 27, 2007 Posted September 27, 2007 I've forgotten my first 9 at Index, but Rodger's corner is a good one! Quote
Sherri Posted September 27, 2007 Posted September 27, 2007 Way to git 'r done, Rob! Your persistence is inspiring. Spray away.... nice to have some celebration spray. Quote
chucK Posted September 27, 2007 Posted September 27, 2007 That mighta been my first 9 at Index. I remember vacillating forever in that awkward pod before the steepness, then pulling through up the slimy thin hands crack left of the big flake. Don't know what I was thinking. Sketchy! Then when I'd just pulled out of the pod I was stopped dead. A cam on the rack had gotten caught in the sling I'd placed at the stance, so I had to reverse the moves and do it again. I made that one a bit harder than it needs to be! Congratz. Cool to see someone so stoked moving through the grades at Index. Now you've got a good dozen classics to work through at your new level. Quote
AlpineK Posted September 27, 2007 Posted September 27, 2007 I've done much better than 9s in the past, but right now after a long period of being injured I'm happy to say I led a 5.6 at E38. I hope to do a lead at Index this year....maybe a 5.7 Quote
RuMR Posted September 27, 2007 Posted September 27, 2007 Kurt just the fact that you can walk and speak intelligibly is amazing, as opposed to be a veggie Rob man, good job... Quote
builder206 Posted September 27, 2007 Posted September 27, 2007 That's great news, Rob. Glad to hear it, congratulations! Quote
DRep Posted September 28, 2007 Posted September 28, 2007 sweet bro, I remember my first 9 at index, Princely ambitions!!! keep pushin it. Quote
Bug Posted September 28, 2007 Posted September 28, 2007 It sounds super fun. Shall we replace "super fun" with "Rob job"? Quote
Blake Posted September 28, 2007 Posted September 28, 2007 Rob, if you want to lead "some of the gendarme pitches" then you'd lead the whole thing. The entire gendarme is only ~55m, so one or two pitches. Good job. I think index is generally well protected, perfect rock, with clean fall potential. A good place to try climbs at your limit in my opinion. Quote
rob Posted September 28, 2007 Author Posted September 28, 2007 (edited) thanks for the encouragement, guys/gals Looking forward to rope up Edited September 28, 2007 by robmcdan Quote
DPS Posted September 28, 2007 Posted September 28, 2007 I've done much better than 9s in the past, but right now after a long period of being injured I'm happy to say I led a 5.6 at E38. I hope to do a lead at Index this year....maybe a 5.7 I can understand that. After a long illness, a month in bed and the last week in the hospital I was able to walk the dogs around the block and was plenty happy to be able to do that. Quote
archenemy Posted September 28, 2007 Posted September 28, 2007 Outstanding work, Rob!!! I think if you look back at a thread started by CBS a long time ago about the climb we hated the most, I listed that corner. Fucking hate that climb. But the nice thing about Index is, you know you really did lead a 9. Right on!!! Quote
rob Posted September 28, 2007 Author Posted September 28, 2007 Dan, it was good to see you tonight. I'm glad that you are finally up and on your feet. I think I owe you quite a bit of rope-gunning. When you're ready, give me a holler. Quote
ashw_justin Posted September 28, 2007 Posted September 28, 2007 Godzilla, man. It just keeps getting better... Quote
TeleRoss Posted September 28, 2007 Posted September 28, 2007 Right on man. Keep on having fun out there. Godzilla, Princely Ambitions, Toxic Shock are all awesome 5.9. It's not how hard you climb, it's how much fun you're having Quote
canyondweller Posted September 28, 2007 Posted September 28, 2007 Nabbed my first 9 lead yesterday on Roger's Corner. Good on ya! I love that climb; that might have been my first at Index, as well. Hit 'Princely' next, it's even better! Quote
DPS Posted September 28, 2007 Posted September 28, 2007 Ouch. What did you catch? Systemic fungal infection followed by systemic staph infection. Quote
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