Sargent_Rock

Rat, I've been in the area for sometime, and feel like I know the climbing scene somewhat. I don't know of any "developed" climbing areas in Aeneas Valley. Certainly there is tons of rock in Aeneas but most of it appears to offer poor climbing or is on private land. Very possible that quiet climbers have been working on secret crags that I don't know about. Where did you hear the "rumor?"

Bouldering in the Okanogan

Have you heard of Snow Peak near Republic? Here's a link: http://www.recreation.gov/recAreaDetails.do?contractCode=NRSO&facilityId=394669&agencyCode=131

Great trip report. Awesome job, youths!!

Cool! Love that place. Looked like fun times in a beautiful place.

I "discovered" Spire Rock while working in Tacoma summer 07. A fall from near the top sent an unfortunate young climber into the ER where I was employed. What a wonderful urban climbing area! A great idea that was well executed, producing fun, enjoyable, and demanding routes. Here's to the designers and builders who gave future climbers such a priceless gift.

Great pictures and wonderful post. I love that place too, what a truly splendid place to climb. Happy to hear you had such a productive and fun outing!

Way to go, man! Good job. Believe it or not, I can still remember my first 5.7 lead. I can remember the pro (1 1/2 inch angle) and the beautiful afternoon light on the rock. In this sport it doesn't matter what "hard men" think. It's about you reaching your goals and the effort you put in. Sweet, dude! I know how you feel.

Thanks Kevino. If you have time would you PM me with instructions on how to post pics. Cheers.

Sorry. Still can't figure how to insert pictures directly onto the Forum thread.

Please excuse the tardy reply, but I've been in Wyoming for the last two weeks, far away from a computer. The following two pictures really don't capture the extent of the disaster.

Once again I feel compelled to share some bad news from the Okanogan. McLaughlin canyon was hit by the front of the Tunk Grade fire. Fanned by high winds as it raced across super heated, dry sage brush, the temperatures most have been enormous when the flames reach the mouth of the canyon. Here the effect must have been similar to a blow torch: 100% fatality occurred to those beautiful woods that covered the canyon bottom. Indeed, no needles remain, in fact the trees and bushes high on the ledges were incinerated. The Wall of Cracks and the Circuit fared a little better. Areas that had seen some controlled burning in past years allowed a few trees to withstand the horrific flame front. The service berries, sage and other brush/bushes are ashes on the blacken ground. On a positive note the rocks, especially the boulders, appear unaffected by the inferno. I might add that the ticks, poison ivy, and rattlesnakes seemed to have been nuked into extinction. The grasses will be back next spring. In a few years the service berries will bloom again. It is sad to accept that we have lost the trees, especially the beautiful woods on the canyon bottom, for a few lifetimes. Such is the nature of the earth’s cycles.

I tried to post the photos right on the forum page (following the instructions in FAQ) and just the web page address shows. What did I do wrong? I fixed them for you, go have a look. You used the URL of the page, instead of the image URL, which ends in ".jpg" And while I'm here: !!

I thought I'd add some pics to help you recognize the evil plant. By the way, I don't think that poison oak grows in Washington, only posion ivy. And I don't believe it grows as high as Liberty Bell (never seen it there).

To try and answer Mattp’s question about Guidebooks: Rick Hanks did in fact write a guidebook to the area. For sure he wanted to use it as a vehicle to show people what he had done (the I’m so “rad” motivation). But I believe that he was equally inspired by more traditional reasons, the same reasons that motivated early cragsman to keep journals at the huts in the pioneering days of the Lake District. The “original” Omak climbers had adopted a no guidebook approach for various reasons. This was neither a new idea or that unique. The early climbers of Icicle Canyon, Leavenworth wanted to keep the area bookless. Some of the first ascenders of the Domelands wanted the area to stay “wild” and “undocumented.” In fact many of the early English climbers argued that there should be no published pictures of the crags because it would inspire non-climbers to go where only climbers should. Rick’s guidebook did not irritate the landowners, or the Native Americans per se (his book never was commercially published). It did add fuel to the fire of animosity between Rick and the old guard. And it was this conflict in general that sucked the landowners and Native Americans politically and personally into the controversy.

I agree with you, mattp, that I don’t think it’s an issue of Trad vs Sport. It’s been my experience that it is a few individuals who have been insulted or feel threatened by rock climbing activity. Also, for me, it is hard to believe that bolts are seen as desecration of the landscape when the roads are so profusely littered with beer cans and plastic bottles. Most of all I agree with JosephH: climbing needs to be presented in a positive light to the tribe if there is any hope of sustained activity. Bottom line: I believe we must respect the Native American and their rights to determine their land use.

I feel as if I should give a heads-up and inform all those interested in the current access situation with the Omak Rocks. If you are unaware of the historical access problems refer to the following link: http://www.mountaineers.org/nwmj/04/issue1.html New local climber Rich and I had heard through the grapevine that the individual who had caused the most recent access anguish had moved out of the area. We were told by (names withheld to protect the innocent) both an Omak climber and a landowner near the rocks that climbing was once again possible on both the Hide-Out and Reservation Rocks. Eager to show Rich some beautiful gems of Okanogan gneiss we went out yesterday. At first it looked like the only access problems would be similar to what I’ve experienced during the last 20 years: a gardener snake on a ledge and swifts flying in and out of a jam crack. But while finishing pitch number 4 on the Hide-Out we noticed a resident of a trailer below driving about in his pick-up. By the way the individual was driving back and forth, first to the old parking spot, then to where we discretely parked Rich’s car, then up to the above landowner’s place, then back to the trailer to watch us no doubt through some sort of scope, we could tell that access was once again a question. Both being trained in quick assessments of human behavior we agreed that we should change our plans of going next to Reservation Rock (closer and more in the resident’s face) and instead we did the long hike to the White Block where to our understanding access is well established and permitted. And certainly the area is more remote. After spending a beautiful afternoon, we hiked out laughing at the possible confrontation scenarios we were anticipating: would there be a “car chase” when the above resident chased us down? Where guns going to be involved? Was there going to be a road block or simply a note on Rich’s car? To our surprise when we go to the car there was a Tribal Police rig parked there. Here we met a friendly enough officer who then called in another officer. This officer informs us that they have been having problems with climbers going out to the cliffs this spring. We offered the information that we had spent most of the day up at the White Block where we understood climbing was permitted. The second officer then dropped a bomb shell when he stated that all climbing on any type of land falling under the Colville Indian reservation jurisdiction was forbidden. When asked why he stated that it was a liability issue. If they had to call 911 it would take to long to get to the climber. I kindly pointed out that in the mountains the same problem exists but the National Park Service doesn’t seem to have a liability problem. He stated that Reservation land was different. That it is. After taking our names and numbers for some sort of “future action by his Sergeant” we were permitted to leave. We expressed apologize for wasting their time and our humble respect for Native American land and the wishes of the Native American people. So we left, the afternoon glow on those beautiful golden rocks disappearing as another chapter in the access struggle closed.

Kids Cliff is a fun, moderate area.You'll have the rock to yourself, and you pass Chatsworth on the beautiful hike out there.

Here's one. It's "super" and it's near Oregon

Thanks Dru. Very inspiring little video. What mind control that dude has!

I agree Dru, it is good news. The study supports ideas I have gathered empirically for a few years: that climbing impact is generally limited to a rather narrow strip of vegetation

My vote for the best guidebook would be Steve Roper's 1964 (red cover) Yosemite Valley Guide. The combination of stunning photos, beautiful line drawings, and "Yosemite Mystic" woven into the route descriptions makes it an enjoyable book to read. Of course my opinion is some what affected by how much influence that guide had my life forty years ago!

Go forth to Tahquitz! Tahquitz is to American Rock Climbing what the Parthenon is to Greek architecture. You will not be disappointed.

Blowboarder: I'd love to climb Chimney Rock, have wanted to for years! Hard to make the trip though, 'cause my wife caught me sleeping with my cousin and took my truck and left me. I'm saving up my food stamps, and that along with my disability check, well I just might have enough money for a bus ticket to Spokane by the end of July or first part of August (which ever comes first). Untill then I'll console myself with the "Best Bouldering in Washington State." By the way, what's a modem??

Blowboarder: I really don't think you have to worry about getting your "ass kicked" or being "lynched by angry locals" in the Okanogan (USA side). Speaking as one with a bit of time on this side of the Cascades, it's so damn lonely over here these days, most of us (me) would enjoy even your company. We just haven't been too keen to spout off about these areas. As anyone who has had to spend time waiting in a cluster fuck on a "Valley" route (or a Smith Rock route for that matter) would, I believe, agree, there's not much to gain from pushing these areas into the 21 century. Love your passion for bouldering, dude! Sarg.