Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
off_the_hook

speed record [TR] Mt. Olympus Speed Record - 7/31/2007

Recommended Posts

Trip: Mt. Olympus Speed Record - 11.5 hours

 

Date: 7/31/2007

 

Trip Report:

I climbed Mount Olympus in 11 hours, 30 minutes round trip. As far as I know, this is the new speed record on the mountain. I went solo and the climb was unsupported. I started at 2:46 am and finished at 2:17 pm - 45 miles and around 8,000 ft of gain. I have been aspiring to speed climb Mount Olympus for some time so it was great to finally get it!

 

975500023_39133d56dd.jpg

 

I thought I could climb the mountain in 14-15 hours and the idea was to run 6 mi/hr pace for the first 12 miles. I basically stuck to the plan for the first 12 miles (I was a little fast, especially at the beginning), but went a lot quicker then anticipated for the rest of the climb, especially the glaciated parts. I think the climbs in the high Sierra at 13k+ ft helped. I really surprised myself when I reached the summit only 5 hours, 55 minutes after starting! At this point I knew I could go under 12 hours roundtrip.

 

Location (Elevation): Time Elapsed / Split / Real Time

Trailhead (578 ft) : 0 / 0 / 02:46

5 Miles (800 ft) : 42.16.63 / 42.16.63 / 03:28 (5 Mile Island)

[5.7 Miles : 49.57 / 7.40.89 / 03:36]

9.1 Miles (950 ft) : 1:22.46 / 32.49.05 / 04:08 (Olympus Guard Station)

[12.4 Miles : 1:57.53 / 29.00.89 / 04:44]

13.1 Miles (1,370 ft) : 2:08.43 / 10.49.89 / 04:54 (Hoh River Bridge)

15.1 Miles (2,558 ft) : 2:44.23 / 35.40.22 / 05:30 (Elk Lake)

18.5 Miles (5,100 ft) : 4:10.12 / 1:25.48 / 07:26 (Blue Glacier Moraine)

Snow Dome (6,600 ft) : 5:05.11 / 54.59.13 / 07:51

Arrive Summit (7,969 ft) : 5:55.20 / 50.08.86 / 08:41

Leave Summit (7,969 ft) : 6:17.14 / 21.53.89 / 09:03

Snow Dome (6,600 ft) : 7:11.05 / 53.51.21 / 09:57

18 Miles (4,500 ft) : 8:08.02 / 56.56.44 / 10:54 (Tarn Below Moraine)

15.1 Miles (2,558 ft) : 8:48.51 / 40.49.22 / 11:35 (Elk Lake)

13.1 Miles (1,370 ft) : 9:08.50 / 19.58.88 / 11:55 (Hoh River Bridge)

9.1 Miles (950 ft) : 9:58.24 / 49.34.06 / 12:40 (Olympus Guard Station)

5 Miles (800 ft) : 10:38.58 / 40.34.13 / 13:25 (5 Mile Island)

Trailhead (578 ft) : 11:30.54 / 51.55.75 / 14:17

 

975500101_7eb3e5f0d5.jpg

 

I drove up to the trailhead Monday evening, taking the southern route from Seattle through Olympia and Aberdeen (4:30 total driving). I was asleep by 9:30 pm with the alarm set for 2:30 am. A quick pack up, snack, and drink, and I was off. Passing the first couple mile markers made the task seem daunting, but I soon found myself in a great running rhythm that carried me to the 12.4 mile marker. This marker is right before the first hill, where the running stopped.

 

I powered up the hill to Elk Lake, Glacier Meadows, and the Blue Glacier Moraine. Mount Olympus doesn’t make an appearance until the crest of the moraine is reached so it is a very dramatic first appearance.

 

olympus0002.JPG

 

975500045_468ef1f496.jpg

 

I put crampons on at the bottom of the moraine, which were essential at this time in the morning (7:20 am) because the glacial ice was super slick like an ice cube. The neve up to snow dome was perfect and I quickly caught up to a party of 6 at the Snow Dome flats.

 

olympus0005.JPG

 

olympus0004.JPG

This is the only photo of me not taken by me or the self timer.

 

There were a few crevasses to hop over and I was soon atop the false summit. For the final scramble up the true summit I ascended the ledges on the northeast side, beginning before the steep snow pitch. These ledges were class 2-3 until an easy class 4 move brought me to more easy scrambling and the summit.

 

olympus0007.JPG

 

olympus0006.JPG

 

olympus0016.JPG

Famous series of "wavy" snow ridges.

 

I enjoyed the gorgeous weather on the summit for 22 minutes, taking in views in all directions, including the Valhallas, the Coast Range, the Pacific Ocean, the Cascades, etc.

 

olympus0012.JPG

 

olympus0011.JPG

Valhallas Close-up

 

On the descent, I found the class 3 "Eagles Nest" route on the south side (avoids the 4th class move), which is not obvious on the ascent.

 

975500131_ffe6b4e14b.jpg

Blue Glacier from Snow Dome.

 

olympus0008.JPG

Self-timer photo turned out pretty good...yeah!

 

olympus0026.JPG

Sweet icefalls!

 

975500063_ca0c233310.jpg

Panorama from the Blue Glacier flats.

 

I stopped to take many photos on the way down the glacier and took a long break at a tarn below the moraine to pack up my gear, hydrate, and eat.

 

olympus0022.JPG

 

olympus0023.JPG

 

olympus0021.JPG

Terminus

 

olympus0019.JPG

 

Once on the move, I was back in a rhythm and felt great. Somewhere between Hoh River Bridge (13.1 miles) and Olympus Guard Station, however, I started to feel the first signs of tiredness so I took a break at the Guard Station to refortify myself. The final 9 miles went well and I was able to maintain around 10 min per mile pace all the way till the end. I was quite tired, but not destroyed. It was nice to chat with the ranger at the visitor center whom I spoke with before the climb as well as the backcountry ranger below Elk Lake.

 

I came away with no blisters, but I did come through with an idiot move by glissading into a shaded (icy) patch resulting in a scraped butt - ouch!

 

olympus0024.JPG

 

7 hours after standing atop Olympus my legs were in the cold waters of the Pacific Ocean. What an awesome climb!

 

olympus0009.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Ice axe, crampons, energy bars, gu, extra layer.

See California section for training.

 

Approach Notes:

Trail in fabulous shape with no impediments.

39 miles of trail roundtrip (I ran/jogged about 30 of those miles)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Amazing.

 

Were you carrying a GPS with waypoints to track your times or were you just writing them down?

 

Were you a cross country runner or something? What is your marathon time?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
45 miles with elevation in 12 hours......Ummmm....ok.
Are you disputing, or in awe like me?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
45 miles with elevation in 12 hours......Ummmm....ok.
Are you disputing, or in awe like me?

 

Both. Mostly in awe......

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The course record for the White River 50 mile (8,700 ft elevation gain) is 6:32 so 45 miles ~8,000 ft in 11 hours seems to be a very realistic time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Leor (Off_the_hook) was a long-distance runner in college and is obviouly still at it. That's an awesome accomplishment. What kind of headlamp do you use for night time trail running? (or for when you started at 2:30 am)?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the comments.

 

Training: I ran competitive track and cross country from junior high through undergrad. I have been covering around 60 miles a week the past couple months. This mileage is a mix of running in local parks around Stanford and weekend trips in the high Sierra at 13k ft+ (see the California forum for these trips). I have not run an official marathon yet and I prefer softer surfaces to roads (i.e. ultra trail runs).

 

Headlamp: I use a Petzl Tikka Plus and on the way to the trailhead I purchased a handheld LED keychain that is very lightweight and provides a surprising amount of light. There was also a full moon, but the Tikka/keychain combo would be effective anyway.

 

Timing: No GPS, I used the mileposts/trail signs provided at the indicated distances and the lap function on my watch. I also wrote down the times in case the watch screwed up.

 

The photos are in general chronological order except the first two and the last photo, which were my favorites.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well we know who was off training with Michael Rasmussen before Le Tour. Holy crap!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Has the french lab cleared you of any doping concerns?

 

If not, Floyd may have a lawyer for you...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I guess I can no longer boast about my round trip time.

What did you do for nourishment? Did you bring a water filter or drink it straight?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
45 miles with elevation in 12 hours......Ummmm....ok.
Are you disputing, or in awe like me?

 

Both. Mostly in awe......

 

Nice job Leor. Guess you neededa break from the law? j/k. Good job man!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OTH,

 

What camera are you shooting with on all these trips? The sharpness and color of your images is outstanding.

 

Excellent effort on your climb as well.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×