mountainmatt Posted July 9, 2007 Posted July 9, 2007 Just a quick note on this route. Positive side: First off, there are several really good pitches in the route that make this a worth while outing. The negatives: The route is safely bolted except for a few runout pitches (which although dangerous, are not that bad because they are 5.1). However, pitches 16 and 17 are just retarded. I did the route last weekend and nearly got killed by a rock. After raping to the ledge, I sat in the most secure spot I could find (no way to secure myself) and proceeded to pull the ropes. At some point a large rock came off and came about 10 feet from hitting me in the head and taking me off the lower 16 pitches. After that, I still had the ~100 feet of soloing back to the anchors over loose terrain. I am not a fan of over bolting, but this is dumb as hell. I would never do the route again without rebolting that section. Even if you are a skilled climber, you can still die on this route due to the poor choices of the first accentionist. Quote
kevbone Posted July 9, 2007 Author Posted July 9, 2007 Ben and I reached the top of the first crux pitch only to have Ben say "shhh....what is that? Do you hear that? We looked up to see fist size rocks and many smaller ones come whipping by us like bullets. We leaned in to the wall and prayed we would not get hit. There was two different showers of these in like 8 or 9 minutes......like a bowling alley. Quote
pink_chalk Posted July 10, 2007 Posted July 10, 2007 nice work Kevbone and BaconBen!! Jen&Isaac Quote
ilookeddown Posted July 10, 2007 Posted July 10, 2007 I don't feel the lower sections are grid bolted. Most are near a full rope length. What do you think? 1st 5.6 w/2 bolts 2nd 5.6 w/5 bolts 3rd 5.6 w/2 bolts 4th 5.8 w/9 bolts 5th 5.7 w/9 bolts 6th 5.8 w/5 bolts 7th 5.7 w/7 bolts 8th 5.6 w/3 bolts 9th 5.9 w/10 bolts 10th 5.7 w/7 bolts 11th 10b w/9 bolts 12th 5.7 w/6 bolts 13th 5.1 w/1 bolt 14th 5.8 w/8 bolts 15th 5.0 w/2 bolts Unless some have been added in the last couple of years. Quote
kevbone Posted July 10, 2007 Author Posted July 10, 2007 I would say the route needs cleaning as well.....right now the upper half is a death route waiting to happen. Quote
Rad Posted July 10, 2007 Posted July 10, 2007 For those who thought it was a worthwhile route, it sounds like it might be best to turn around after pitch 15 to avoid choss and anchorless rappelling. Is that about right? Quote
octopuswithafez Posted July 10, 2007 Posted July 10, 2007 (edited) For those who thought it was a worthwhile route, it sounds like it might be best to turn around after pitch 15 to avoid choss and anchorless rappelling. Is that about right? I'd agree, that's about where I turned around on it last year. It also helped that it was about 85 in full sun and I was feeling a little sketched on the choss. Not so much going up but I was thinking of the descent, that got me. Plus, factor in the time for rapping down...especially down the low angle friction slab..... Edited July 10, 2007 by octopuswithafez Quote
Otto Posted July 10, 2007 Posted July 10, 2007 I do not agree. I think the next crux pitch, it may be pitch 18, with the 10b, is really good. It has fun moves, nice and steep, and is bolted just right. It doesn't have any loose rock, as I recall. So why go all the way up there and miss that? Quote
tradclimbguy Posted July 10, 2007 Posted July 10, 2007 (edited) Actually I think the only worth while climbing on the whole thing is pitch 18 and up. Although I'd disagree with otto on pitch 18 being bolted just right??? It is so annoyingly over bolted with 17 bolts you could do the whole pitch with two draws by leap frogging them as you climbed up. I don't see how a bolt every 3-4ft is just right especially on such easy ground. 1-15 are mind numbingly boring and can be simuled in about an hour. Its just the same repetitive move over and over on low angle rock. 16/17 is just unprotected Choss that I feel goes anywhere from 4th class to 5.9 depending on where you happen to wander around trying to find the anchors about 280ft up. Can you say "Retarded". Edited July 10, 2007 by tradclimbguy Quote
Otto Posted July 10, 2007 Posted July 10, 2007 I was talking about the crux pitch with the 10b on it, not "such easy ground". If that's not pitch 18, sorry, don't have the topo handy. The bolts as you climb through that section are good. Quote
Jens Posted July 11, 2007 Posted July 11, 2007 I think a guy I know at vertical world climbed it in under 60 minutes? ------------------------------- Infinite Bliss has got to be the most controversial route in WA history? Even more than all the bolted on river rock hold routes at fossil rock placed in the eighties. Quote
JosephH Posted July 11, 2007 Posted July 11, 2007 So, if I hear you right, this 'classic' is basically a choss walkup with one or two acceptably decent pitches on it, is a loose rock chute, and the descent sucks. Kudos for you and Ben for going up and doing it, but unless I'm missing something I've yet to hear (in this or any IB TR) anything that sounds particularly classic about it... Quote
kevbone Posted July 11, 2007 Author Posted July 11, 2007 good job, kev -- happy to be climbing again? Thanks....I was very happy to be able to get out and climb.....I wanted to climb this last summer but opted to get on Purisk instead..... Quote
kevbone Posted July 11, 2007 Author Posted July 11, 2007 So, if I hear you right, this 'classic' is basically a choss walkup with one or two acceptably decent pitches on it, is a loose rock chute, and the descent sucks. Kudos for you and Ben for going up and doing it, but unless I'm missing something I've yet to hear (in this or any IB TR) anything that sounds particularly classic about it... JH....I would say there are 3 or 4 chossy pitches.....the rest are solid as granite can be. And yes....it needs a walk off. Quote
kevbone Posted July 11, 2007 Author Posted July 11, 2007 Beacon Ben at my house getting ready to take off..... Racking in the "pull out"..... Ben about 100 feet up on pitch 1..... Ben, starting one of the best pitches on the route....the crazy stairway pitch.... Ben about to belay me up the first crux.... Sea of granite 2000 feet up..... Ben's great smile on a great ledge...... On the rapell...... One last look. Quote
richard_noggin Posted July 11, 2007 Posted July 11, 2007 So, if I hear you right, this 'classic' is basically a choss walkup with one or two acceptably decent pitches on it, is a loose rock chute, and the descent sucks. Kudos for you and Ben for going up and doing it, but unless I'm missing something I've yet to hear (in this or any IB TR) anything that sounds particularly classic about it... Obviously JOE hear's what he wants to hear whats the dif, Garfield or the slabs up north? Great trip report and pic's Kev If someone wanted to do something positive like cleaning or some anchors it would be out of the norm of endless smack spray'n and would be way cool :tup: Quote
kevbone Posted July 11, 2007 Author Posted July 11, 2007 Thanks....I finaly got my camera to work, it finally downloaded my pictures with no problem... Quote
512dude Posted July 12, 2007 Posted July 12, 2007 Anyone know how to get in touch with the FA? Thx Quote
kevbone Posted July 12, 2007 Author Posted July 12, 2007 Anyone know how to get in touch with the FA? Thx Why? Do you want to tell em off? Or shake his hand? Quote
LUCKY Posted July 12, 2007 Posted July 12, 2007 Anyone know how to get in touch with the FA? Thx YES, send me a PM with your request Quote
billcoe Posted July 12, 2007 Posted July 12, 2007 Anyone know how to get in touch with the FA? Thx Why? Do you want to tell em off? Or shake his hand? Good call 512. I was thinking this too, ask permission to toss in at least a single bolt, maybe 2, in the blank section so that a party descending in the rain doesn't die. PM sent Quote
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